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Thread: Connecting dust deputy xl to s&d pvc?

  1. #1
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    Dec 2013
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    Connecting dust deputy xl to s&d pvc?

    I'm ready to place my order for the sdd xl, but am wondering if I really need the expensive flex hose and extra fittings to connect to my 6" s&d pvc main trunk. Can anyone tell me if there are other fittings that will easily connect the sdd xl to 6" s&d?

  2. #2
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    Simplest method I know for odd size couplings is a Fernco. Cut the length of the coupling to match the combined joint lengths of the PVC and DD XL so that very little of the Fernco is exposed once the joint is made. It will also allow for some misalignment which may be useful. Their website has all the details to identify which coupling you need

  3. #3
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    Brandon,
    Let us know how it works; I'm in the same boat having just bought the SDD-XL and a used Delta single stage.

  4. #4
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    Brandon,

    On my XL a 6" crimped metal duct fits perfect into both openings. I don't have any PVC to compare, but did see an old post where someone wrapped the metal duct with foam door seal and slid the PVC over that and taped it for a snug fit. The other trick I saw someone do was to cut slits in the end of the PVC about 1-1.5" from the end and slide that over the connection and use a pipe clamp to tighten the connection. The Fernco mentioned by Andy is only $15. So if you are at the big box store looking for mating pieces you can use 6" HVAC duct to match the XL ports.

    Hope that helps. Let us know what you do.

    Carl

  5. #5
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    Dec 2013
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    Sorry for the lack of update. So I found that yes some of the metal fittings from Lowe's do fit to make the connections at the Dust Deputy itself in the metal fittings are a lot closer to fitting the PVC then I was just trying to connect PVC to Dust Deputy. I may try taping the connection from metal to PVC or I just may spring for a couple of those fernco fittings for that depending how the finances are when I get there. I did find one of those fernco fittings that will let me connect 6 inch PVC to the odd size 7 in Inlet on my Grizzly dust collector for $22, I believe the Box said it was made to connect 6 inch PVC to 6 inch clay pipe.

    For the time being until I get everything figured out and make some blast gate I am just swapping hoses back and forth on the dust collector. Now I have another question my plan is 2 mount the SDD on a triangular shelf made of plywood in the corner on the first floor about a foot over top of a 50 gallon drum on a dolly. Then running the outlet straight up through the floor to connect to the grizzly dust collector on the second floor because it seems like it would be next to impossible to empty if I actually mounted it right to the top of the drum once connected to PVC piping. So to do that I'm going to have to run duct out of the bottom of the super Dust Deputy to connect with the barrel.

    The question I am getting to is do any of you have any idea how important it is for that piece of ducting to be straight out the bottom of the Dust Deputy and into the barrel or can it have a slight Bend?

    It's either that or use a short piece of flex duct from the inlet and Outlet to connect to PVC pipe and mount the Cyclone right to the lid of the barrel so that I can lift the lid and Cyclone off to empty it without it jarring the ducting I'm really leaning towards the shelf I'm just worried I'm overlooking something and going to screw it up
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
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    When I had to use. a fernco on my cast ironsewer pipe 36" down in the ground I had a hard time. I used a wire brush on a angle grinder to remove the rust. still hard to get it over the iron pipe. I ended up using using a cherne plug to expand the fernco for a few minutes then quickly slip it into place before it shrunk down.
    For a one time thing I would use a playground ball of the correct diameter. deflate it enough to place it in the fernco then inflate it for few minutes to stretch things out.

  7. #7
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    Birmingham, MI
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    If you are using casters on a barrel a setup like these wood work best. Have a little or a lot of hose off the bottom to disconnect from the barrel. If you don't have room to stack you may be better served to raise the SDD closer to the ceiling and blower above and have a longer hose between the SDD and the barrel. This makes cleaning the barrel easier, raises the SDD inlet closer to the ceiling where you are likely running pipe and will make the SDD/blower more efficient since you won't have to pull the air from the SDD.

    Hope this makes sense
    Hope this helps. Let Us know what you do.

    Carl

  8. #8
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    I recently saw several you tube videos on heating the pvc with a hot air gun and molding it to fit. One guy even made some bucks out of mdf to make it easy to reproduce. Looked easy enough, that I will try it in a few months.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

  9. #9
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    Carl those photos show almost exactly what I have in mind and even answer a few questions thank you.

    Rick as clumsy as this sewer and drain PVC pipe is it seems like it would be pretty easy to manipulate into a larger size I'm not sure about a smaller size though.

  10. #10
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    They were going both ways, Brandon. When heated it seems pretty easy to form it to something. I remember one video was on a motorcycle forum, and they were plumbing a sandblast cabinet.

    Edit: I just googled 'you tube forming pvc pipe' and a bunch popped up, most not in woodworking sites.
    Last edited by Rick Potter; 10-12-2017 at 9:50 PM.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

  11. #11
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    Sep 2016
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    Modesto, CA, USA
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    PVC really does not get hot enough in boiling water. Maybe boiling oil would be hotter. Anyone have. a turkey fryer and want to try?
    I bought a used "hot Box" cheap and it works great for bending and forming PVC up to 2" pipe. They make bigger one sand blankets but they cost a lot for using just a few times.
    Bill D.

    http://www.greenlee.com/catalog/Bend...-Boxes?ps=1000

  12. #12
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    Mar 2015
    Location
    Birmingham, MI
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    I have down a few fittings forming PVC with a heat gun. It definitely works both larger and smaller. With a heat gun it takes some practice (at least for me) to get the heat even across the pipe. Have some extra to practice with and definitely make a form to enlarge your pipe. I always try without one first and to save time and end up with a form. To shrink the size a hose clamp works but not too much pressure as PVC will split when stretched or squished.

    Another way I saw to shrink (reduce size) PVC is to make 3/4-1" cuts in the end of the pipe and use a hose clamp to tighten and take up the gap from the saw kerf. The bigger the reduction the more cuts and the deeper you may need to make them. Once you have the diameter you want, loosen back out,add some PVC glue and re-tighten. You can also use a similar process to make a couple out of PVC pipe by cutting a slice out of the perimeter of a ~4" section of pipe. Use hose clamps and glue to close up the gap and make a smaller diameter. Bigger cuts will probably also require some heat.

    Bill, thanks for that note about water. I was going to try that the next time as the heat gun easily browns the pipe but it sounds like the water may not work either.

    FYI- definitely heat your pipe outside or wear a gas mask (not dust mask) with good ventilation as the fumes off PVC are dangerous.
    Hope this helps. Let Us know what you do.

    Carl

  13. #13
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    sorry I have not gotten any email replies. I didn't have to heat and expand or Shrink anything. Everything fit together fine with some metal fittings from Lowe's and is working better than I ever imagined possible. Almost nothing is making it to the grizzly. If I think of it later tonight I will try to get a picture.

  14. #14
    I use a cheap heat gun form Harbor Freight to heat up PVC to form it. It works well but you have to get it close to the point where it will burn. I sometimes end up with scorch marks on the finished piece. But that does not affect function, just appearance. It is much easier to expand it than to compress it but I've done both. I think the easy ability to modify it this way is a significant advantage to PVC.

  15. #15
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    Aug 2003
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    Boulder, CO
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    My experience was the same as yours. I didn't need to do anything except attach a 6" coupler straight from the SSD then straight to the pipe.

    So I got my SDD XL up on top of the steel drum and a S&D 45deg elbow fit just fine. I'm using the ASTM 2529 or whatever the thin walled 6" PVC pipe is from my local irrigation pipe house.

    The 6" SDD:xl output fits right into the 6: PVC fitting (in my case an 45 elbow). From there I'll do a straight, then another 45 degree to start the duct main.

    I'm using a modified Delta 1.5hp single stage that I flip mounted upside down kind like the above links. I'll let you know how it works once I get it working.

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