Page 2 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 89

Thread: My first (and probably last) drink from the green well

  1. #16
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Bel Air, Maryland
    Posts
    535
    Quote Originally Posted by Edwin Santos View Post
    I see your frustration, but I'm with Darcy on this. I don't have your particular saw, but I do have the Makita version. It can "seem" under powered like it's bogging down if I try to rip hardwood with the supplied 48T finishing blade. That's why I sprang for the Freud 28T and 14T. I predict if you get an appropriate blade and try the same ripping job, it will seem like your saw is 3x more powerful.

    Try this - see what would happen if you try to rip the same old growth 7/8" poplar at your PM2000 with an 80 or 96 tooth finishing blade. The experiment would simulate exactly what you're doing with the track saw.
    I guess you're making the argument that my comparison is apples and oranges. I'll buy that for dollar. Well, I'll see what they say when I get thew saw back. They received it Monday of this week, and the tech guy told me they would have it for 3 days max. So, I expect that it shipped back out today, which will hopefully put it back here Saturday, or Monday. If I decide to get a ripping blade for this unit, which do you recommend?
    --

    Sometimes the best solution to morale problems is just to fire all of the unhappy people.

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Dowell View Post
    I guess you're making the argument that my comparison is apples and oranges. I'll buy that for dollar. Well, I'll see what they say when I get thew saw back. They received it Monday of this week, and the tech guy told me they would have it for 3 days max. So, I expect that it shipped back out today, which will hopefully put it back here Saturday, or Monday. If I decide to get a ripping blade for this unit, which do you recommend?
    Consider the Freud 14T, designed for your saw. Mine was about $25 on Amazon. Please report back on what happens if you do because it would be interesting to know. The in-between combo equivalent blade might be the Freud 28T which I tend to use for rip cutting denser sheet products like 19mm Baltic Birch or trimming doors. Good luck, I hope it sorts out and you get some satisfaction out of this tool Mike.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Griswold Connecticut
    Posts
    6,923
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Dowell View Post
    If I decide to get a ripping blade for this unit, which do you recommend?
    Mike

    Festool has a rip blade for the saw, it's called Panther. I would just look at the specs of that blade
    There are more than a few manufacturers for blades to fit Festool, so you're not limited to spending $80+ bucks on a blade, and only being able to get one from Festool.

    BTW
    I've accidentally had the wrong blade in my TS75. It still worked. Just not as well. It didn't do what yours was doing and I was ripping 2" thick padauk. Much harder than poplar.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Yorktown, VA
    Posts
    422

    Festool

    My two cents:

    Festool products in my opinion are more precision grade as oppose to contractor grade.

    The motor on the Festool is multi-speed unlike single speed contractor saws (think milwaukee, etc.) Electronically controlled motors are more sensitive than single speed motors. The motor will ramp up as the load increases to maintain the same RPM and it has electronic braking. It is a different animal than the standard contractor grade saw of the past. (one speed controlled by on/off switch.)

    Couple of questions folks should consider when using a Festool Track saw or any Festool product:

    Was the saw being used plugged into a dust collector or plugged directly into the wall in all cases? (The dust collector already has a long cord on it and will reduce the voltage to the saw if an additional extension cord is used. Even if you plug directly into the wall with an extension, you need to keep in mind it can draw up to 1200watts.)

    What was the gauge of the extension cord you were using? NEC notes 2% voltage drop for feeders and 3% voltage drop for branch circuits. If you then plug the saw into a 14 gauge x 100' extension cord you are going to have 4.7 % voltage drop just on the extension cord alone.

    What was the length of the extension cord you were using? The longer the cord the higher the voltage drop.

    What was the speed setting on the saw? If you are ripping wood you should be at the highest speed.

    What was the distance of the blade extension below the work piece? If the blade just barely clears the wood, more of the teeth will be in contact with the wood, putting more stress on the motor. If the blade extends farther down, the less teeth will be in contact with the wood. This is a different concept than a contractor saw in that in most cases the blade on a contractor saw is always kept fully extended in real world use. The festool track saw is normally adjusted for the depth of the material, putting more teeth in contact with the wood as oppose to a contractor saw.

    What type of blade are you using? If you are ripping, use a ripping blade, if you are crosscutting use a crosscutting blade. Would you use a crosscut handsaw to rip an 8' long board? NO. Can you use a crosscut handsaw if you are only going to rip cut a short distance, sure, but if you have to make a lot of cuts, you will switch to the rip handsaw pretty quickly.

    Also, I a mentioned above this is a precision saw that give near splitter free cuts and great dust collection (when used with the vac). Precision cuts are made slower and not like blasting through the cut like a carpenter would do with cutting a 2x10.

    It also seems the blades gum up quicker, so regular cleaning of the blade is a must.

    I have had my TS-55 for over 7 years and it still works great. But I listen to the tools. If they are bogging down, there is a reason for it. If I want to cut with out any bogging down in any condition, I would use a worm gear circular saw, but the finish of the cut will be vastly different (worse.)

    As far as using the same blade on the PM2000 (which I also have been using for the past 10 years) you are missing out if you have only been using one style blade. You really should have several (RIP, Crosscut, Plywood/Melamine). You will notice the difference.

    By saying a $600 saw should do everything great, would be like saying a $1M Ferrari should be able to go fast and be able to pull a 20,000 lb trailer for that kind of money.

    Good luck.

  5. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Dowell View Post
    I'm going to have to start subscribing to this theory. I would say that it is "nice" to have different blades for different jobs, but with high end equipment, that shouldn't be necessary....
    No amount of money spent on tools will allow you to avoid the basic physics of how the tools work. I'd highly suggest reading a guide on types of saw blades and how saw blades work. The other blades on your cheaper circular saws are mid-range tooth count general purpose combination blade vs. the high quality crosscut/ply blade that came with your tracksaw. If you want to test it, take some veneer ply and make cuts with both tracksaw and your circular saw. You'll find the difference.

    If you spend the time to understand how the tools work and how to use them correctly you could do more without buying/replacing everything you own with "top shelf" versions.

    The analogy I think applies best would be someone buying a range rover, but refusing to get snow tires or chains and then complaining when they slide into a ditch in a snowstorm.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    1,236
    I have the TS75 and never have a problem with it bogging down. I cut 1.5-1.75"(milled 8/4) almost exclusively with it. My first thought i the blade isnt aligned properly. You dont report burning on either side of the cut, right? That throws that theory out. From everything we know, sorta sounds like a lemon, but who knows.

    As far as the blades go, that is incorrect. I would rather have a 1.5hp contractor saw with 3 high quality forrest blades versus a 5hp sawstop with one blade. Blade design and quality are of paramount importance.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Central MA
    Posts
    1,583
    [QUOTE=Mike Dowell;2731032} I would say that it is "nice" to have different blades for different jobs, but with high end equipment, that shouldn't be necessary... I just honestly believe that is not asking very much of a $600 saw ...[/QUOTE]

    This is a rediculous comment. High end or low end is irrelevant to your problem, you were using the wrong blade for the task, regardless of how expensive or new it was. All the saw does is spin the blade, the blade does all the work.
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 09-28-2017 at 8:40 PM. Reason: fixed quote tagging

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,480
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Bernie May View Post
    Pinch the blade? It has a riving knife on it to prevent that. I have both Festool circular saws. Both work great. One is just bigger and heavier. I think the poster got a lemon.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Dowell View Post
    I'm going to have to start subscribing to this theory.
    Believe me, it happens. I was never impressed with my Forrest WWII. Everyone (including folks who I respect the opinions of) loved them. Mine just never worked anywhere as good as my Freud's or Amana's. I tossed it in with a batch going out for sharpening and it worked as good as any of my upper end blades when it got back.

    Lesson learned, when things aren't doing what you think they should, call the maker right off. Don't wait a year and grouse about the thing like I did. Give them a chance to make it right early on.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    1,408
    3 somewhat ordinary things will make the saw bog down. I have experienced all of them on my TS55 over the years:

    1) A dull/dirty blade

    2) Too many blade teeth for the application. If you plan on ripping a lot of solid lumber, definitely add a 28T (also good for fast non-finish plywood cutting e.g. sheathing, subfloors, etc.), if not a 14T to your kit. Freud makes good quality, cheaper-than-Festool blades. Oshlun makes even cheaper blades that are fine for infrequent use.

    3) Long extension cords

    That being said, Festool does certainly set itself up for this kind of expectation/dissatisfaction paradigm with the premium price they charge. I hope you're able to get the problem resolved and find peace with the saw.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Central Missouri, U.S.
    Posts
    1,263
    Like the OP, I find it unreasonable that Festool said that a portable saw should only be plugged into a wall outlet. Specify a certain gauge extension cord, fine, but only a wall outlet?

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Griswold Connecticut
    Posts
    6,923
    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Decker View Post
    Like the OP, I find it unreasonable that Festool said that a portable saw should only be plugged into a wall outlet. Specify a certain gauge extension cord, fine, but only a wall outlet?
    Nick

    It's probably tied to some type of liability, or legal stuff. My air compressor stated that it had to be "hardwired" into a dedicated circuit, or the warranty would be void.
    It's had a 25', 10AWG, SOOW cord, and a plug on it since day one.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  12. #27
    The first time I saw Festool, I honestly thought that they were tools for rich people who want nice, expensive tools in a beautiful shop but never build anything. I didn't think any real woodworkers would shell out the kind of money they're asking.

    I've since learned that I was obviously wrong about that. I don't own any and at this point don't have an attitude about them one way or another.

    Anyway, I was really just going to make a comment about extension cords. I just use heavy (low gauge) cords and don't worry about it. I haven't noticed any kind of power loss using an extension cord vs. not using one.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    NW Indiana
    Posts
    3,076
    So sad...

    I have had my TS55 for years now with no problems. I have ripped with it and used an extension cord but a 10 or 12 gauge cord. No problems. The main use for it for me is cutting down plywood and it is great.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Williamstown,ma
    Posts
    996
    I own many, many Festool tools. The one thing that is almost universally true about them, is that they are underpowered compared to almost anything else mainstream. But they have other pluses- dust extraction for working inside finished homes is a big one for me.
    The saw you have, their 12,15, and 18v cordless drills, and the kapex, are the real problem tools in my shop for this. They are good tools, but they just don't have quite enough oomph.
    That is why is is extremely imperative you use the right blade, and a good power source. You cannot push these tools, you just have to let them work at their own pace.
    Their sanders, along with their mid sized router are definite exceptions. These, in my mind are the best tools they make.
    Use the right blade, and then determine if it is worth keeping.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Northeast Ohio
    Posts
    582
    I've had the TS55 for many years now. It was used to rip 8/4 rough oak. I did use a rip blade and it was very slow but never stopped. The crosscut blade was used at times to rip 4/4 oak when it was inconvenient to change blades. The saw is underpowered, no doubt, but it never stopped for me.

    Sorry you had a bad experience. I would be severely disappointed with your experience as well. Hopefully, the repair will provide a more positive experience.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •