OK, I think I am comfortable with vanity now.

[mike waters]

Thanks everyone for being so patient with me. This probably seems like I am beating a dead horse.


-Ditched the sliding dovetails and replaced them with Dado
-I am still trying to figure out how people get that floating counter top effect.
-The studs behind our wall are 2"x6"x9' - Another full bath is on the other sides. Since so much weight is going to be on both walls (doing floating vanities in both) I am going to add 2x6 blocks horizontal between studs - for both bathrooms.
-This is potentially overkill, frankly, I don't care. If anything bad happens after it is up my wife will never let me touch our home again. (no, seriously)

The dado's are obviously, not as strong, but sliding dovetails was just too much work. I did it a couple times today and forget it. I got so frustrated.
I have to build 7 of these bad boys. One of them is 72" long.
Any thoughts or concerns please don't hesitate.

*** Ignore the 19-1/4" measurement please***

All wood is 7ply wood. (not sure what species I'm going to go with or pre-finish)
When I begin working on them I will make sure to start a build thread.

Thank you so much everyone!!

Ghostbear_Floating_Vanity(BACK).jpgGhostbear_Floating_Vanity(ALL).jpgGhostbear_Floating_Vanity(LEFT_SIDE).jpgGhostbear_Floating_Vanity(RIGHT_SIDE).jpgGhostbear_Floating_Vanity(SCREW_RAILS).jpgGhostbear_Floating_Vanity(ALL-2).jpg
Ghostbear_Floating_Vanity(finished).jpgGhostbear_Floating_Vanity(Finished_FRONT).png

[Wayne Lomman]

Any unit longer than 4 foot needs a structural internal division panel somewhere to take the spring out of the top and bottom. If you have drawers, that helps with positioning. If not, just pick a location between doors. Is does not need to be in the centre. If it clashes with the basin, cut the top edge out so it clears the basin profile by 1/4" at least. Make sure the waste pipe and trap can still be fitted. Cheers

[mike waters]

Any unit longer than 4 foot needs a structural internal division panel somewhere to take the spring out of the top and bottom. If you have drawers, that helps with positioning. If not, just pick a location between doors. Is does not need to be in the centre. If it clashes with the basin, cut the top edge out so it clears the basin profile by 1/4" at least. Make sure the waste pipe and trap can still be fitted. Cheers

Hi Wayne,
Here is an updated picture:Ghostbear_Floating_Vanity(Finished_FRONT).pngGhostbear_Floating_Vanity(finished).jpgGhostbear_Floating_Vanity(finished_SIDE).png

[Bill Adamsen]

Late to the party here ... apologies. You are showing a 3/8" deep dado where I would likely just do 3/16" or 1/4". My assumption is that you will not use any other mechanical fastener, just glue, since the end panels are visible, that should work. Assuming those are full-width drawers with a visual center divider, or are they doors? irrespective, with the sink in the middle, the drain and supply lines wouldn't be happy with a center divider, but I'm wondering about the structural integrity of a box that size without one or more dividers, or something to resist twist. Perhaps I'm overly cautious. Love to get feedback from you as you test out the design.

[Bill Adamsen]

Mike:

I had the sense I had seen this before and now see that you had posted in the design forum from a fine woodworking vanity design. I can't download that article for some reason, but just looking at the exploded view, the key difference is that they have a drop in sink and (as opposed to your's which is top mounted) and to accommodate that sink, there are the three boxes with a panel in front of their sink which not only hides the sink, but provides torsional resistance. Of course they have that interesting bracketing system as well which I suspect is overkill, but it is that lack of torsional resistance on the front of your vanity that might be problematic. I don't know for sure, you are in "new territory" for me.

I've (tried to) attached a photo of the vanity I described to you in the "countertop template mode." This shows some of the carcass features which provide torsional strength including the boxed in sink enclosure and the bottom miter-wrapped torsion box. As I mentioned, even with these "extra" features the intent was still to have leg supports. I've supplied several drawings to the designer but haven't been given approval to move ahead with the leg fabrication.

(chrome won't allow adding a photo)

[Martin Wasner]

If anything bad happens after it is up my wife will never let me touch our home again. (no, seriously)

And you're not making use of this out why?

[Mike Kees]

Mike,first great name you have there! As a carpenter what you said about a bathroom on either side of a 2x6 wall. This means it is a 'plumbing wall',there will be drains ,vents and water lines roughed in there,so the 2x6 blocking on both sides may interfere. Check this before installing blocking. Mike.