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Thread: Sanding cutting boards.....yay.....

  1. #16
    Joe, Do you have a thickness sander? I have a Supermax dual drum. I usually run 80/100 grit. You could start the hand work with finer grits.

    I agree with you about scrapers. I use them for some things(Like leveling finishes) but it is workmanship of risk - one slip and you're back to 80 grit.

  2. #17
    I dont have any input really on the sanding, we are usually running them through the sander and then hitting them with 150 or MAYBE 180... BUT....

    I have to say, as much as I hate making cutting boards, and I question why I do it every time we do it, an absolutely beautiful picture like these you posted is about the only reason we do. I have tracked the profitability (even accounting for "scraps") and it all points to a loser but pictures like this (that we have taken at the end of a run) are about the only reason we keep making them.

    That is a super impressive batch of boards and a beautiful photo. Im almost miserable to see it because now Im going to want to pull the cutting board scraps down from the racks and fire out a bunch.


    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Shinall View Post
    Attachment 368802Attachment 368802So every year I make cutting boards for Christmas and sell for extra Christmas money. They're scraps from everything of the previous year. The first time I made them I sanded to 220 and then did a test wash of the board as a customer would clean it and it felt fuzzy. So I started doing this to get by the fuzziness:

    Sand to 80
    Sand to 120
    Sand to 180
    Sand to 220
    Wet sand 220
    Sand 400
    Wet sand 600

    That's a ton of sanding. Does anyone else have any other tips to avoid the fuzziness and to avoid all this sanding!?

  3. #18
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    Scrapers?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bradley Gray View Post
    I agree with you about scrapers. I use them for some things(Like leveling finishes) but it is workmanship of risk - one slip and you're back to 80 grit.
    I'm curious about the risk of using a scraper. What goes wrong?

    JKJ

  4. #19
    Catch a corner, snag a grain reverse. Sort of like hand planing

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bradley Gray View Post
    Catch a corner, snag a grain reverse. Sort of like hand planing
    Ah, yes, a disaster. I don't know if it would help for real woodworkers but I round off the corners on some of my flat scrapers because of this. Also, when working on a large surface I use one of the Veritas scraper holders. (is that cheating?) I started using it since my hands got tired but I wonder if it helps avoid the snagging.

    JKJ

  6. #21
    The other issue is when I use a scraper on wide flat surfaces it is difficult to avoid scalloping.

    I happen to like the surface a scraper leaves, but on a lamination like the OP's boards with lots of grain reverses and glue lines I use the thickness sander and follow with hand-helds. I generally stop at 220 until I build up some finish, but then I'm not making cutting boards.

  7. #22
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    Thank you Mark for the extremely kind words. I started doing boards aout 5 years ago and I do so many of them in so little time that even actually buying lumber to supplement the colors, I end up making a pretty good profit for what would usually be spent as time watching TV.... I take real pride in my boards and if I could get over the boring repeatability of it, I would do it year round. I basically set out each year to make whatever we want to spend on Christmas for ourselves, the kids, and family/friends. The last 4 years, I work just one month and it pays for all of it. Very fortunate to have repeat customers and word of mouth on these.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Bolton View Post
    I dont have any input really on the sanding, we are usually running them through the sander and then hitting them with 150 or MAYBE 180... BUT....

    I have to say, as much as I hate making cutting boards, and I question why I do it every time we do it, an absolutely beautiful picture like these you posted is about the only reason we do. I have tracked the profitability (even accounting for "scraps") and it all points to a loser but pictures like this (that we have taken at the end of a run) are about the only reason we keep making them.

    That is a super impressive batch of boards and a beautiful photo. Im almost miserable to see it because now Im going to want to pull the cutting board scraps down from the racks and fire out a bunch.
    I'm a Joe of all trades. It's a first, it'll catch on.

  8. #23
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    Bradley, I do not but that's something I am probably going to invest in very soon. I just spoke with a friend of mine tonight about a Supermax. The biggest sanding issues I have are how I round my boards on the ends. A lot of wear and tear on the wrist using the orbital sander to smooth those end grains out. The thickness sander would definitely save time on the flat surfaces and leave only the ends to hit with the ROS through all the grits. Maybe I'll try and sell some extra boards this year to pay for that!

    Quote Originally Posted by Bradley Gray View Post
    Joe, Do you have a thickness sander? I have a Supermax dual drum. I usually run 80/100 grit. You could start the hand work with finer grits.

    I agree with you about scrapers. I use them for some things(Like leveling finishes) but it is workmanship of risk - one slip and you're back to 80 grit.
    I'm a Joe of all trades. It's a first, it'll catch on.

  9. #24
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    if you have a large air compressor.. pneumatic sander ?

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike waters View Post
    if you have a large air compressor.. pneumatic sander ?
    That's what I was thinking too. I have two pneumatic random-orbital-sanders, both very light weight. I got a palm sander from Woodturners Wonders that uses 3" disks that seems like it would be perfect, easy to grip with one hand and very little effort needed to move it around. I don't know what kind of air compressor it would need to be practical, though. Mine is a 5hp 60gal 2-stage.

    JKJ

  11. #26
    Can you not ease your edges on a shaper or router table with some good sharp tooling and a slow pass? Should leave you very little hand sanding after.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike waters View Post
    if you have a large air compressor.. pneumatic sander ?
    I do, but I hate the annoying sound of a pneumatic sander haha. I have used it before. I just like the feel of my other sanders more.
    I'm a Joe of all trades. It's a first, it'll catch on.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Bolton View Post
    Can you not ease your edges on a shaper or router table with some good sharp tooling and a slow pass? Should leave you very little hand sanding after.
    Mark, even with a brand new really sharp bit on the shaper or router table, I still have to sand a good bit to blend it all together.
    I'm a Joe of all trades. It's a first, it'll catch on.

  14. #29
    That's interesting. We treat some of the edges of ours with large radius cutters on the shaper making them kind of pillow shaped more of a serving board than cutting board and we edge profile everything on the shaper climb cutting with a feeder and the come off very clean. A pass or two on the edge sander and then to to 150 or so and apply finish.

  15. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Shinall View Post
    Bradley, I do not but that's something I am probably going to invest in very soon. I just spoke with a friend of mine tonight about a Supermax. The biggest sanding issues I have are how I round my boards on the ends. A lot of wear and tear on the wrist using the orbital sander to smooth those end grains out. The thickness sander would definitely save time on the flat surfaces and leave only the ends to hit with the ROS through all the grits. Maybe I'll try and sell some extra boards this year to pay for that!
    I round my corners on the router table. One is 3/4 rad, and the other is 3/16

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