Shark Guard on K3 Slider - Attention Andy Giddings

[Chris Parks]

This is aimed at Andy Giddings to ask how he has found his SG hood and can he post some pics of it installed. I am particularly interested to see how it works with the cross cut fence as there is not much clearance between to end of the CC fence and the blade and if using a F&F jig basically no clearance. Thanks.

[Rod Sheridan]

Completed Installation.jpg

Hi, I'm not Andy, nor do I have a Shark Guard however here's an overarm guard I added to my saw that works fine with my F&F jig.

The advantage of this one over the stock Euro guard is that I can use it for non through cuts.........Regards, Rod.

[Andy Giddings]

This is aimed at Andy Giddings to ask how he has found his SG hood and can he post some pics of it installed. I am particularly interested to see how it works with the cross cut fence as there is not much clearance between to end of the CC fence and the blade and if using a F&F jig basically no clearance. Thanks.

Chris, its not setup at the moment (no projects on) but I'll post some pics later in the week. I did need to replace the supplied knobs with something lower profile for the reasons you mention. It was easy to do and I'll add the info once I post the pics

[Chris Parks]

Thanks Rod, I don't like the boom idea as it restricts the width of material on the right hand side of the blade, not often but it does happen. I saw a mobile boom that can be moved if needed and that could be a reasonable idea. The original works OK but the problem with it is the stupidly small hose adapter built in. Do all European sliders have this problem? I am also going to take a saw to mine and cut the back out of it so it will flow more air when it is sitting on top of the material being cut.

[Warren Lake]

if you can mount the boom on the ceiling put it there and it can never be in the way. I think the saw im picking up shortly has 60" travel on the fence and to the post. Not sure ill need that much but the boom is that far away.

[Derek Cohen]

Chris and I have been discussing via email what is needed for an effective and efficient collection of dust at the guard. This becomes more important when a zero clearance insert is used, as I am now doing.

I am interested to know how much suction is needed? I have a 3m length of 5" hose to the lower port on the K3, and this works well enough with my generic 2hp dust collector. Using 2 1/2" hose to the K3 guard via a Y-connector from the 5" was a complete failure. Dust everywhere.

Out of interest, I connected the 2 1/2" hose to my Festool CT26E (that's a Dust Commander on top). It was pretty damn good at sucking up dust. There was hardly anything I could see on the surface of the saw (and the blade guard was set higher than I would usually do). The CT26E has excellent suction.



If your set up can do this, will you say what you use - DC, hose or pipe size and length? This is not limited to K3 owners only, but all that use a ZCI. It is of interest to Chris and myself how one could set up a K3 to avoid obstructions (such as with an overhead system).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Rod Sheridan]

Thanks Rod, I don't like the boom idea as it restricts the width of material on the right hand side of the blade, not often but it does happen. I saw a mobile boom that can be moved if needed and that could be a reasonable idea. The original works OK but the problem with it is the stupidly small hose adapter built in. Do all European sliders have this problem? I am also going to take a saw to mine and cut the back out of it so it will flow more air when it is sitting on top of the material being cut.

Hi Chris, my Hammer guard works fine with the small hose, as does my Excelsior guard.

The only problem I had is that you can't use the Hammer guard for non through cuts.

As I move my saw, any guard not attached to the saw wouldn't be usable.............Rod.

[Andy Giddings]

Hi Chris, finally took some photos which I think are self explanatory. As you're in Oz there's not much point in giving you the knurled nut information that I used to replace the supplied wing nuts. They are from McMaster https://www.mcmaster.com/#93886a140/=19vt5xb and were a straight replacement. You'll see that I use an 80mm hose for the over the blade DC. Shark Guard can be supplied with whatever OD you need as he uses 3d Printing for the outlet. Let me know if you have any questions
20171019_132448.jpg20171019_132501.jpg20171019_132508_008.jpg20171019_132639.jpg20171019_132706.jpg

[Chris Parks]

Thanks Andy, is there a huge improvement on the standard hood? In Oz we have found that having the back of the hood open for air entry increases the performance as a hood sitting down on the material being cut reduces the air flow considerably.

Now tell us all the details on the CC fence DRO, I have been looking at ways to do that for a while now with no success.

[Andy Giddings]

The Shark Guard is better than the standard hood - not sure whether I would describe it as huge but certainly the saw table stays cleaner for longer. I do have to close down the gate approx. 50% otherwise there is too much suction and offcuts (even reasonably large ones) disappear up the duct. As the guard sits above the table at the rear, there is plenty of space for air entry. Very easy to remove and also covers the scoring blade.

The DRO was expensive - I looked at two suppliers - Fiama and Siko. Both operate on the same principle - magnetic strip with a reader and display. Problem was only the Siko band/reader would fit into the slot where the existing tape sits. The Fiama was wider and higher - which meant I couldn't fit it into the slot. Needless to say the Siko was more expensive. Fairly easy to put together, just take the existing measuring tape out and stick the magnetic strip in its place. The reader/display can be mounted onto the stop in various ways - I modified a spare Hammer stop to accept a short piece of aluminum angle. One leg holds the reader and the other is screwed to the stop casting. I used a flat strip of aluminum mounted to the top of the stop casting to hold the reader. The display is battery powered and retains settings when power is lost. Hope this helps

[Chris Parks]

Thanks for the DRO info, I feel a Xmas present being needed. My daughter has just bought a $10,000 3D printer so she will be getting a phone call shortly, I think I will cut the top out of the standard guard and adapt a 4" line to it one way or another. I hadn't thought of a 3D printer but the idea presents real possibilities.

[Chris Parks]

Andy, it looks like I have to buy SIKO DRO's from Germany so I want to get confirmation of what is needed. Is this what you ordered and does it come with the magnetic strip or do you have to buy that separately https://www.siko-global.com/en-au/pr...splays/ma503wl

They also mention a cover strip on this page, did you use that as it seems to be optional https://www.siko-global.com/en-au/pr...splays/ma503wl

[Andy Giddings]

Andy, it looks like I have to buy SIKO DRO's from Germany so I want to get confirmation of what is needed. Is this what you ordered and does it come with the magnetic strip or do you have to buy that separately https://www.siko-global.com/en-au/pr...splays/ma503wl

They also mention a cover strip on this page, did you use that as it seems to be optional https://www.siko-global.com/en-au/pr...splays/ma503wl

Chris, I got the MA504/1-001 as the readout, sensor was MS500H-0010, mag band was MB500/1-0233 with a length of 1.3m (too long but it's easy to cut to size) and a mounting bracket for the readout ZB3004. I believe the one you referenced is more expensive. The cover strip is included in the part number for the band.

[Chris Parks]

Chris, I got the MA504/1-001 as the readout, sensor was MS500H-0010, mag band was MB500/1-0233 with a length of 1.3m (too long but it's easy to cut to size) and a mounting bracket for the readout ZB3004. I believe the one you referenced is more expensive. The cover strip is included in the part number for the band.

Andy, I rang Siko, it turns out they have an agent in Oz but he has to order the stuff from Germany and he asked me to confirm the number for the read head as it should have four digits after the dash eg: MA504/1-001*. I thought I would do it in this thread so it can be seen by others. Thanks.

[Keith Weber]

Andy,

I'm also interested in that Siko display for a parallel fence that I want to build, so it will duplicate the digital readout on my Altendorf's crosscut fence. Looking to stay clear of the Asian stuff, and the Siko looks really nice. Could you provide a ballpark of the cost of the display and readout head (and the magnetic tape if you purchased that as well). It's pretty much impossible to get that information online. Any info I did find was 5 years old and of questionable integrity.

One other question. Does the MA504/1 allow to flip between a main reading and an offset (ie. for two flip stops on a fence). I might have to get the MA503/2 for that. Again, seemingly impossible to find that info online - I can't seem to find user manuals for them.