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Thread: What do you use as a planing stop?

  1. #31
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    Know exactly how you feel, because I have chipped more blades and gouged more plane soles than I care to admit.
    That is why there aren't any metal stops on my bench. My planes haven't suffered this fate. With metal stops it is inevitable, especially if others use your bench and tools.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Koepke View Post
    That is why there aren't any metal stops on my bench. My planes haven't suffered this fate. With metal stops it is inevitable, especially if others use your bench and tools.

    jtk
    Sound policy, but wooden planing stops simply won't hold thin, narrow material in place. It might be doable with a hard-plastic stop with teeth that will dig into the wood being planed, but I have not seen one yet.

    Stan

  3. #33
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    Stan, I agree when the stock is under 1/4" thickness it gets very hard to successfully use a stop. I've used brass screws, much like one would use a nail, for planing kumiko and that worked pretty nicely.

    I'll certainly consider the bench crafted, likely it is made for a real workbench and not the bowling alley strips that make up mine, haha, so when I build a real bench I may well consider it. I've been waiting to simply luck into a big big slab that I can turn into a workbench, for instance one of my friends just built a beautiful bench from a huge piece of Chestnut that he came across.

    As much as I'd like to use a planing beam on horses...I kinda really want a Roubo bench I feel I've used my bench long enough at this point that I'm starting to really understand what I want in a workbench.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  4. #34
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    For very thin stuff, I sometimes make the piece significantly longer than I need, clamp one end, and plane away from the clamp. It is hard to use a stop without having it

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicholas Lawrence View Post
    For very thin stuff, I sometimes make the piece significantly longer than I need, clamp one end, and plane away from the clamp. It is hard to use a stop without having it
    Wouldn't it be easier and more economical to just have a stop that worked?

  6. #36
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    I have a small bench 20'' x 47'' tucked into a corner on the right. On the left I installed a 1/4'' strip with dowels as a stop which works quite well, later added the small vise on the front as an option.
    The scraper bars from the swap meat for a buck each will be re purposed into Peter Ross's type hooks.
    Rick
    IMG_3010[1].jpg

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Malakoff View Post
    I have a small bench 20'' x 47'' tucked into a corner on the right. On the left I installed a 1/4'' strip with dowels as a stop which works quite well, later added the small vise on the front as an option.
    The scraper bars from the swap meat for a buck each will be re purposed into Peter Ross's type hooks.
    Rick
    IMG_3010[1].jpg
    I like the re-purposing idea. Those scrapers should work well.

    You wrote you got them at the swap meat.... did you trade some bacon for them?

  8. #38
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    Stanley, I have been able to do down to 1/4 or perhaps 3/8 without a problem. I am talking about thinner stuff, which always seems to want to flex if you try to plane it into a stop.

  9. #39
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    Stanley, I would never swap Bacon for anything, I am so used to referring to the swap meet as "the swamp meat" with my friends!
    Rick
    Last edited by Rick Malakoff; 10-04-2017 at 9:37 AM.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicholas Lawrence View Post
    Stanley, I have been able to do down to 1/4 or perhaps 3/8 without a problem. I am talking about thinner stuff, which always seems to want to flex if you try to plane it into a stop.
    Brian and I both use a special kind of wooden-bodied plane to plane thin stuff to a very precise thickness. I think he calls his an "airplane plane" or something like that, while I learned to call them "goroganna." They have precisely dimensioned skids mounted on the plane's sole that ride on the benchtop's surface to determine the final thickness, and a spring-loaded plate in front of the mouth that keeps the material from being pulled up from the workbench and/or buckling. They are quite effective at keeping the material from flexing or buckling, but need an effective stop to work in a production situation where one needs to thickness plane hundreds of such thin pieces.

    Are we talking about the same sort of thing, Nicholas?

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Malakoff View Post
    Stanley, I would never swap Bacon for anything, I am so used to referring to the swap meet as "the swamp meat" with my friends!
    Rick
    Glad to see you have your priorities right!

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stanley Covington View Post
    Brian and I both use a special kind of wooden-bodied plane to plane thin stuff to a very precise thickness. I think he calls his an "airplane plane" or something like that, while I learned to call them "goroganna." They have precisely dimensioned skids mounted on the plane's sole that ride on the benchtop's surface to determine the final thickness, and a spring-loaded plate in front of the mouth that keeps the material from being pulled up from the workbench and/or buckling. They are quite effective at keeping the material from flexing or buckling, but need an effective stop to work in a production situation where one needs to thickness plane hundreds of such thin pieces.

    Are we talking about the same sort of thing, Nicholas?
    No, we are not.

    I have not followed this thread religiously and must have missed the point at which it went from a general discussion of planing stops to one where only specialized planes are being discussed.

  13. #43
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    Some take an old saw blade, drill a couple holes, bend the plate a bit, and screw down to a dog or the benchtop......and let the saw teeth do the job..
    flat poplar.jpg
    Piece of thin pine scrap....while I scrubbed some 3/8" thick poplar Came time to smooth plane said ( now 1/2" thick) poplar.
    smooth poplar.jpg
    Scrap was too tall. 4 drywall screws....two at the end, and one on each edge.

  14. #44
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    Can't say it's a good solution, but it does solve the screw hole loosing up problem a few have mentioned. I've installed a 1/4-20 Insert and use flat head brass machine screws. Quick, cheap'ish, and about as good as my current "bench", erh work table. (One of these days, soon I hope, I need to build a better sturdier bench.)

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicholas Lawrence View Post
    For very thin stuff, I sometimes make the piece significantly longer than I need, clamp one end, and plane away from the clamp. It is hard to use a stop without having it
    I'm with you. Many times when planing thin laminates or instrument sides, a stop simply won't work. The wood buckles and there's no plane with skids that will stop that.

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