View Poll Results: Which Cyclone DC would you buy??

Voters
32. You may not vote on this poll
  • Baileigh DC-2100c

    0 0%
  • Jet JCDC-3

    0 0%
  • Laguna C|Flux 3

    1 3.13%
  • Clearvue 1800

    24 75.00%
  • Grizzly G0441

    7 21.88%
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Thread: New Cyclone Dust Collector - Opinions wanted!

  1. #46
    Quote Originally Posted by John C Bush View Post
    Hi Rick,

    So my thoughts are: 1-get the cyclone outside the shop if possible, 2-consider 2hp for cost savings, 3-spend those savings on an auto gate system or get one anyway, 4-include a TS overarm DC guard in you duct layout. I have a SS as well, don't use a guard and get too much dust when doing fine trim cuts. Good luck shopping

    Hey John thanks for the feedback, very much appreciated. As fate would have it, I decided to check out the local craigslist to see if anything was available before I took the plunge and picked up a ClearVue unit and amazingly there was a Oneida Dust Gorilla for sale. Ran on up to the seller this morning and picked it with some additional ducting, drum, vac line for the drum, misc other stuff thrown in. Should have it up on the wall tomorrow or sometime this week at the latest! Will report back with finished pictures when all done. Thanks to all for the guidance and ideas.

    Sidenote, I see lots of folks suggest putting the unit in another room or another building but I see two problems with this. First, if you cool or heat your space you're effectively throwing money out the door with the DC sucking several thousand cubic feet of conditioned air out. Second, a balance of air into and out of the shop is required. Unless windows are open or you have some sort of louvered system to allow air in then you are creating a vacuum situation. In my case, I don't have another structure to put it in as this is already a stand-alone building on my property and it wouldn't be feasible to add another room and continue the tile roof line. Still curious as to what people think about the air balance/air conditioning scenarios. If you have a window or door open I get it but otherwise, I just don't see how it works and certainly not if you plan to heat or cool the space. I'm in Florida and the heat is pretty tough to work in during the summer and I don't think I'm doing my cast iron surfaces any favors if I'm dripping sweat on them.

    The "new" unit sitting on the shop floor!

    20171007_124843.jpg

  2. #47
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,685
    Placing the unit in another room doesn't risk heat/cooling because you duct the "clean" air back into the shop, typically though a baffled return so there's no direct sound transmission. These dust collection systems are somewhat loud when operating and isolating them, when possible, makes for a better shop working environment. I have my compressor in the same closet setup for the same reason.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #48
    Ok that's what I thought, there has to be a return. Still a problem for those who direct vent out of the shop.

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Berwick, Nova Scotia, Canada
    Posts
    425
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    which means the rest of the world outside the US gets totally ripped off when it comes to DE performance
    So sorry to disappoint, but, I'm in Canada, which is sooo outside of the US. 60hz.
    Mike

  5. #50
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,685
    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Costa View Post
    Ok that's what I thought, there has to be a return. Still a problem for those who direct vent out of the shop.
    Most folks who direct vent are not concerned with the effect on HVAC, either because they are located in an area where it doesn't matter or for other reasons. But I return air to the shop because I do care about losing heat in the winter or losing conditioned are (as minimal as it may be) in the hotter part of the summer. Choices are good!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Most folks who direct vent are not concerned with the effect on HVAC, either because they are located in an area where it doesn't matter or for other reasons. But I return air to the shop because I do care about losing heat in the winter or losing conditioned are (as minimal as it may be) in the hotter part of the summer. Choices are good!
    Yeah, I vent mine straight outside and in summer when the temps are over about 38 degrees C (100 f) I don't last long with the Clearvue running. Temps often hit 45 deg C, or 113 f, and I have definitely consider getting some filters so I can switch over to a closed-system during those periods! Winter doesn't bother me too much; it's easy enough to put on more clothes and it only gets to about 32 deg f here in winter.

  7. #52
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Haubstadt (Evansville), Indiana
    Posts
    1,294
    I vent outside. Temperatures in Southern Indiana are usually 20 degrees in the winter, but can get down to single digits or below zero. I built my shop, 30' X 50' with gable vents the full length of the sides and to the peak, no roof vent. I insulated the roof rafters and the walls. I also installed a 12' drop ceiling with a 3" gap at one end and various openings for equipment hanging from the ceiling. I installed in floor hot water heat. My hot water heater is gas, with combustion air from outside. So my makeup air is drawn through the gable mixed with the air above my drop ceiling and then into the shop. I can run my DC for hours and maybe get a 2 degree temperature drop. I attribute this to the in floor heat where everything contains heat and the fact that my makeup air is mixed with outside air and air above my drop ceiling that contains heat that has risen. My previous shop had propane heat with a roof vent and could not afford to heat it full time. Other things were putting the electric outlets in conduit on outside of the walls. I could feel cold air coming from the outlets in my previous shop where the electric was run behind the walls. I also used about 15 cans of instant foam and sealed every opening below 12'. The one unexpected thing is when it is sunny out I get about a 5 degree or more temperature increase above my heat set point. So my heater doesn't really run during the day.
    When working I had more money than time. In retirement I have more time than money. Love the time, miss the money.

  8. #53
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Northern Illinois
    Posts
    943
    I've never owned any except Oneida and swear by both the reliability and efficiency of their units. Not sure why, but I didn't see Oneida on the list. They have been making cyclones for 20+ years. If you are spending $1600 on a cyclone, I'm sure you can find one of their models that will suit your needs. Oneida staff will help you design your ductwork system. I have never found their recommendations to be wrong. I currently have a V1500 (1 1/2 HP, 110V) but they sell this cyclone as 2HP, 3HP, and 5HP (all 220V). It is a great collector with a HEPA filter that exceeds the specs of most other HEPA filters in cyclones. Just a suggestion.

  9. #54
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Southwestern CT
    Posts
    1,392
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    Why does everyone get hung up on calculating duct sizes for a hobby workshop?
    Chris ... I understand your point about very small systems. Why get "wound around the axel" worrying about something that should require no effort at all? To your point, a small system can probably get away with winging it. But, what differentiates a hobby (very small system) from one where this starts to become important? I consider my shop a "hobby" shop and in my case I felt it worth the effort to perform the airflow calculations that ultimately made it a reasonably good working system.

    CFM and duct size/length/turns provide an understanding of duct air velocity (based on diameter and friction and of course specific machine requirements) which in my understanding is the key number we're working towards. That is how I designed my system.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    "the mechanic that would perfect his work must first sharpen his tools.” Confucius

  10. #55
    For those concerned about make up air when you vent outside, if you have an overhead garage door in your shop, you need not be concerned, because the overhead door is on the inside of the shop, so the vacuum created by the dc causes the overhead door to come in, and the make up air comes from around the door.

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