Fortifying factory finish with more layers of poly?

[Ralph Brown]

(This is so basic and not really even worthy of being called a project...)

I just received this folding table: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's finished with satin poly, but from the reviews, it scratches very easily. Would it be at all effective to build up the top and make it tougher by wiping on additional layers of poly? Is this a common thing? Any input appreciated!

[Jamie Buxton]

I don't see anyplace in that description where they say "poly". They say "finish".
You don't know what the finish material is, or how thick the finish is. Both of those affect how sturdy the coating is. So maybe your DIY finish will help, or maybe it won't. However, your DIY finish probably can't make the furniture any weaker, so if your labor is free, go for it.
One issue you may encounter is ensuring a bond between the OEM finish and your DIY finish. I'd scrub the OEM finish with extra-fine synthetic steel wool to try to improve the adhesion.

And whatever you do, try it out on the underside of the table before you apply it to the visible parts.

[Ralph Brown]

It came with a certificate of authentication stating "poly satin finish".

... That's not actually true, though I would look less careless if it were. I assumed based on the price point/place of origin it was probably polyester or polyurethane. I don't know, though. I am sure the finish is very thin.

Sounds like it couldn't hurt, but might not necessarily help. It's nearly naked, so I'll go ahead and do it. I'll definitely rough it up a little first, and test underneath. Thanks!

[Doug Hepler]

Ralph

Factory finishes are usually lacquer. Polyurethane varnish adhesion is unpredictable, even to cured coats of the same product. Scuffing may help some as Jamie wrote. The classic approach would be to use a transition coat of dewaxed shellac (e.g., Sealcoat), which is said to adhere to everything.

I have not seen the table, but based on what you wrote, if it were mine I would put it into service and recoat it if and when it needed it,

Doug

[Ralph Brown]

Thanks Doug, I didn't realize lacquer was standard on products like these. That's helpful to know. As a longtime guitarist used to the vast majority of modern-style electric guitars coming with poly factory finishes, with mostly only traditional models still shipping with factory lacquer finishes, I must have assumed poly was industry standard in inexpensive furniture, too.

If I knew how thick the veneer is, I would feel a little better about just letting it wear naturally and refinishing it someday if needed. For all I know the veneer is a sheet of paper, though, and any damage will expose the rubberwood beneath. The good news is I have some dewaxed garnet shellac in the fridge. I'll keep the table covered for the time being and decide if I want to act or not another day. It's a pretty nice piece for the money, even if I'm a little embarrassed about sharing it here of all places. :P

Thanks again!

[Jim Becker]

"Poly" generally refers to polyurethane resin finishes and they are not a typical factory finish for furniture or much of anything. These slow drying products do not lend themselves to spraying for sure, and were originally focused on floors where abrasion resistance was preferred.

Polyester formulas, however, have become more prevalent as these 2-part finishes can be pretty durable. But I doubt you'll see them on cheap furniture...

[Tom Bender]

The finish applied to any mass produced furniture (or plywood or book covers etc) flies thru the process and must be dry in minutes, often with heat, so Polyurethane is not often used.