Rubbing out varnish finish

[Thomas Wheelock]

<p>
I really like Charles Neil&#39;s videos on finishing. He offers lots of options, and I would like advice about which to use on my project. I am making a dining table out of sapele. I began with two coats of Watco Danish Oil, which brought out the character well. Then I followed with 6 coats of varnish (three parts gloss wipe on poly, two parts mineral spirits, one part BLO). It looks good, but as I rub out I want to get to a satin finish. Charles used a P 1200 grit wet sanded followed by Abralon 2000 wet sanded. In another video he used Micro Mesh wet sanded (1200 followed by 12000). Any preferences or advice? Thanks</p>

[Steve Schoene]

Personally I stay with an old fashioned method using fine pumice lubricated with paraffin oil with a felt pad or block. Rubbing compound also gets you to satin finish.

BUT, you are going to have a bit of problem given the choice of varnish mix. First, Poly is generally hard to rub out because while it is tough, it is not hard. Very hard finishes rub out more easily than softer ones. AND, when you added BLO to the poly you made it even softer and more difficult to rub out.

The best advise I can give is to give the finish plenty of time to cure--a month perhaps.

[Thomas Wheelock]

Thanks. I have actually had good luck with this finish before, it your pint about letting it cure longer makes sense.

[Bennett Ostroff]

Why don't you just use the satin wipe-on poly? I usually mix equals parts gloss and satin which seems to solve the occasional issue of wiping streaks when using just the satin.

[Frederick Skelly]

Hi Tom. Welcome to The Creek!

My approach is similar to yours, but it's only one step. I wet sand with a 2000 grit sandpaper from the auto parts store. I lubricate it by dipping it in Johnson Paste Wax instead of water. Let it dry to a haze and then polish it.

I agree it is crucial to let it dry well. I wait 6 weeks.

Would love to see pictures when you've got it done.

Fred

[glenn bradley]

I use a finish similar to your own as the last coat or two for my pieces (1:1:1 for previous coats). I let it cure for a week or more to be sure the finish is ready to be 'finished'. You can test in an obscure spot with some 1000 grit abrasive; you should get fine white dust as a spoil. If not, let it cure more.

I start with 1000 grit on a hard block using a spray bottle of mineral spirits as a lube. I do as much area as I can before the MS starts to fail as a lube. I then wipe off with clean towels misted with MS and repeat until done. If I want a semi-gloss I will move up through 1200 and even 1500 depending on the underlying material.

Here's 1500 on walnut:

GnG Low CoD (286).jpg

Here's 1000 on cherry:

Media Cabinet (173).jpg

Sorry about the dust

[Thomas Wheelock]

I use a finish similar to your own as the last coat or two for my pieces (1:1:1 for previous coats). I let it cure for a week or more to be sure the finish is ready to be &#39;finished&#39;. You can test in an obscure spot with some 1000 grit abrasive; you should get fine white dust as a spoil. If not, let it cure more. I start with 1000 grit on a hard block using a spray bottle of mineral spirits as a lube. I do as much area as I can before the MS starts to fail as a lube. I then wipe off with clean towels misted with MS and repeat until done. If I want a semi-gloss I will move up through 1200 and even 1500 depending on the underlying material. Here&#39;s 1500 on walnut: GnG Low CoD (286).jpg Here&#39;s 1000 on cherry: Media Cabinet (173).jpg Sorry about the dust

Thamks! The finish on both your pieces is terrific.

[Thomas Wheelock]

Hi Tom. Welcome to The Creek! My approach is similar to yours, but it&#39;s only one step. I wet sand with a 2000 grit sandpaper from the auto parts store. I lubricate it by dipping it in Johnson Paste Wax instead of water. Let it dry to a haze and then polish it. I agree it is crucial to let it dry well. I wait 6 weeks. Would love to see pictures when you&#39;ve got it done. Fred

Thanks. I had not thought of the wax as lubricant. I will try thst on some scrap pieces I have made along with the table to test finishes.
tom

[Steve Schoene]

I still do not agree with adding oil, blo or tung, to a film finish. It just softens the film to no good effect. Using one coat of oil or oil/varnish (Danish oil) initially to add enhance color and figure. One coat is enough, and after allowing a short time for penetration, all excess on the surface should be vigourously wiped off. Applying a harder finish over a softer finish is also a bad thing, leading eventually to finish failure, perhaps not this month or year, but in time.

For rubbing out you want a hard finish non-poly varnish, or shellac or NC lacquer all work much better.

[Bill Adamsen]

I know you are using varnish. I've never rubbed out varnish. This is a lacquer rubbed out using the Festool Platin and polish.

[John TenEyck]

I agree with you, Steve, about not adding oil to a film finish you want to rub out. But you are giving polyurethane another bad rap; I've had no trouble rubbing out several polyurethane products, including Arm-R-Seal. I did this slab done with Arm-R-Seal 11 days after the last coat using sand paper on my ROS with water/soap lubricant, followed by auto polishing compound.



John

[Scott Holmes]

You really arn't rubbing out a varnish finish; you are buffing out an oil-varnish blend (aka Danish Oil). I would call this a "burnish" finish. There is very little build to rub-out. A few coats of varnish can be rubbed-out. Not so much with a danish oil.

[Steve Schoene]

Scott, I'm afraid it is worse. The OP is trying to rub out the danish oil that was applied as a film without rubbing off excess before curing. It's softness will be pretty much a mess even after weeks and weeks of curing.