MDF Ok for Curved Table Apron?

[Brian Mayeaux]

Is it ok to use stacked and glued-up MDF rings for a round table apron that will be 22 inches diameter, 1-inch thick MDF ring, with a 2.75 inch wide apron face? 1/16 inch wood veneer would then be glued to the outside diameter of the ring.
I just read about this in Fine Woodworking, however the author used MDF as a template for a wooden ring; I have the MDF to make the rings but don’t have the wood to build a wooden ring so I’m wondering if there are issues with using MDF instead of wood.
The veneered face will be paint-grade poplar, and the table legs will also be poplar.

[Mel Fulks]

Sure, that would work. Sanding it smooth enough for veneer will be messy,though. Italian bending ply would be my preference.

[Edwin Santos]

I saw that article and I understand exactly what you're asking. I see no reason why the apron technique wouldn't work in MDF or plywood for that matter. The only issue might be the cutting of the leg bridle joint recess on the inside of the apron the way the author demonstrates it. MDF just doesn't lend itself well to that type of handwork, but it can be done with care. Also, I might glue in the buttons for attaching the top to the apron, and use an oversize hole for attaching the top if it will be made from a material that would encounter seasonal movement.
I think it's a cool project and I'm thinking about trying it myself.

[Lee Schierer]

I don't think that MDF likes to be bent very much.

[Edwin Santos]

I don't think that MDF likes to be bent very much.

The technique he's referencing doesn't involve bending anything.

[johnny means]

This is a common construction technique in commercial millwork. One thing to watch out for though, is that the glue lines can telegraph through the veneer. To avoid this you can apply you veneer to a substrate before bending the form. You can also seal the form with glue before veneering. Several coats of glue size, sanded between coats, will create a uniform gluing surface.

[Edwin Santos]

This is a common construction technique in commercial millwork. One thing to watch out for though, is that the glue lines can telegraph through the veneer. To avoid this you can apply you veneer to a substrate before bending the form. You can also seal the form with glue before veneering. Several coats of glue size, sanded between coats, will create a uniform gluing surface.

The technique he's referencing doesn't involve bending anything.

The article showcases a traditional technique of creating a round shape without bending. A "ring" representing the apron diameter and thickness is laid out, then cut out with a router mounted to a trammel. This ring becomes the template. Sections of stock are glued on top of each other in a brick laid pattern, rough cut to size and flush routed to exact shape using the ring template. Keep gluing successive rings until built up to the size you want, and then you have a curved apron over which you can apply veneer.

If this doesn't make sense, pick up the current issue of Fine Woodworking, read the article, and it will be very clear.

The OP is asking whether the rings can be made of MDF and I see no reason why not. The author of the article used eastern white pine I seem to recall.

As far as glue lines, I could see it being an issue with the very thin commercial veneer, but since you're using 1/16 veneer, I can't see it being an issue.

[Mike Henderson]

For strength, I'd prefer doing the brick laying with solid wood or with plywood, rather than MDF. I've had to do curved aprons in the past and I brick laid them with solid wood, then cut them to the curve needed.

Mike

[Wayne Lomman]

As Edwin and Johnny said, this will work fine. As far as the glue lines telegraphing, use resorcinol or epoxy. They don't move. Cheers

[Mike Henderson]

As Edwin and Johnny said, this will work fine. As far as the glue lines telegraphing, use resorcinol or epoxy. They don't move. Cheers

Or urea formaldehyde glue. That doesn't move at all.

Mike