Midsized Crosscut Saw?

[Tom Blank]

On a recent project, I was ready to cut some approximately 1” x 4” stock to finished length and decided I did not have a proper saw for the task. My small crosscut backsaw did not have enough depth of blade to saw through with the stock on edge and the pitch was too fine to efficiently cut across the 4” wide face. I have a Diston D-24 crosscut, but it was as much too big as the backsaw was too small.


I had not run into that problem before. I dug around on the net, but did not find what I thought might be the perfect midsized saw for crosscutting.


What do you all use? Thanks for your input.


TAB

[Jim Koepke]

You might want to look into a panel saw. It is like a regular saw only the blade is ~18" or so. Some folks make their own out of a saw that has a kink at the toe end or just shorten the plate. Some modern models have a half back feature on them.

Also a back saw of around 16" used with a bench hook is useful for the scale of work you mention.

jtk

[Brian Lefort]

Veritas. Three sizes available. Dovetail, carcass, and the largest rip and crosscut.

[Patrick Chase]

Veritas. Three sizes available. Dovetail, carcass, and the largest rip and crosscut.

The largest is the Tenon saw, which has a cut depth of just under 4" and would just barely work for cutting a board like this on-edge. It's a great saw.

Like Jim I would probably choose a panel saw for this job though. I have the Pax ones that LV sells, and they work well (after I sharpened them).

[Andrey Kharitonkin]

Newbie here. Two Veritas saws (small + middle) and Japanese Ryoba.

Veritas dovetail/small crosscut saw - kerf 0.7 mm (0.028 inch).
Veritas carcass saw rip/crosscut - kerf 0.7 mm (0.028 inch).
Ryoba 250 mm - kerf 0.7 mm (0.028 inch).

With small saw I start the cut. And then finish with bigger one. It works because all saws have nearly the same kerf. Want to try tenon saw and panel saw some day. But the set above works with less effort because of thin kerf.

[Robert Hazelwood]

A panel saw or larger backsaw in the 8 ppi to 11 ppi range would be nice for this. But I wouldn't be afraid to use my larger D-8 handsaw either. I would not saw it on edge unless it was an unusual situation.

Something to consider is a medium size ryoba, like 240mm. If you can abide the different form and cutting action, they work great on tasks like this and many others. I have the Gyokucho, and it is an excellent saw for the money (especially considering you get a ripteeth as well)

[steven c newman]

I have 2 D-8s, a 26" 8 ppi crosscut, and a 20" 10 ppi crosscut. Small stuff like a 1 x 4, go into the Langdon No. 75 Mitre Box, with the 5" x 30" No. 4 backsaw...11 ppi.....

[Pete Taran]

As others have noted, a panel saw in the 20-22" range in 10 ppi, give or take is the perfect saw for this task. Backsaws are meant to be used mostly for joinery, although you can use them to cut anything if it will fit under the back. Kind of like using a screwdriver to pry open a paint can. Not what it was intended to be used for, but it works.

[Mike Allen1010]

As others have noted, a panel saw in the 20-22" range in 10 ppi, give or take is the perfect saw for this task. Backsaws are meant to be used mostly for joinery, although you can use them to cut anything if it will fit under the back. Kind of like using a screwdriver to pry open a paint can. Not what it was intended to be used for, but it works.

+1 to what Pete said.

IMHO panel saws are often overlooked by hand tool users for filling the gap between backed, joinery saws and full-size handsaw's. Panel saws are the most used saws in my shop – I have 3 rip and 3 crosscut in my daily user till. Their lightweight and maneuverability make them very handy for use at the bench, up on a ladder, or in the truck for crosscutting rough stock into more manageable lengths before driving home from the lumber yard. If you don't have one, I would encourage you to give it a try.

Even though you might be "able"to crosscut smaller components like drawer sides, raised panels etc. with a large enough back saw, it's much faster, easier and I would argue more accurate to cut these pieces with a panel saw. For me, a 20 inch saw plate that is 3 – 4 inches wide at the heel makes it easier to visualize straight and square, as compared to a smaller backed, tennon saw etc.


Because the panel saw plates are by definition lighter and thinner than full-size hand saws, it's important to make sure your panel saw has a stiff, well tensioned plate. That way you're less likely to kink it when showing off for the cute cashier at the lumberyard while crosscutting stock in the parking lot.


Cheers, Mike

[James Waldron]

As others have noted, a panel saw in the 20-22" range in 10 ppi, give or take is the perfect saw for this task. Backsaws are meant to be used mostly for joinery, although you can use them to cut anything if it will fit under the back. Kind of like using a screwdriver to pry open a paint can. Not what it was intended to be used for, but it works.

If you look back to the original post, you'll be reminded that we're talking a 1 X 4 here, not some wide stock. I can't imagine his back saw is too short for a 1 X 4. His problem is with the slow cut of too fine teeth on his cross-cut saw, not the length of the saw. For a 1 X 4, a panel saw, despite it's many fine qualities, is a bit overkill if one has a decent carcass saw,12-14 tpi. With the slow cut and the limited depth of cut mentioned by the OP, it sounds like he's talking about a small, fine toothed dovetail saw.

[Pete Taran]

Jim,

Not to be argumentative, but if you also look back to the OP, you will see that he is cutting off the same 1x4. If he said I want to created a shoulder, or a slot in the 1x4, a backsaw would be exactly what is required (a crosscut variety, not rip btw). Since he said he was cutting it off, a panel saw is the proper tool for the job. As I mentioned in my first reply, anything with teeth could work. He could even chip carve it away with a sharp knife if he wanted to. But, the classic tool for cutting off dressed stock is in fact a panel saw.

[Kurtis Johnson]

You are wanting a panel saw. They are sought after and expensive. I personally would have no problem using a full length handsaw to cut that stock. Your mileage may vary.

If appropriate, I'd also recomend cutting slightly fat, maybe 1/16", then truing to the line with a plane and shooting board. When utilizing "shooting", the saw becomes much less important.

[James Waldron]

Jim,

Not to be argumentative, but if you also look back to the OP, you will see that he is cutting off the same 1x4. If he said I want to created a shoulder, or a slot in the 1x4, a backsaw would be exactly what is required (a crosscut variety, not rip btw). Since he said he was cutting it off, a panel saw is the proper tool for the job. As I mentioned in my first reply, anything with teeth could work. He could even chip carve it away with a sharp knife if he wanted to. But, the classic tool for cutting off dressed stock is in fact a panel saw.

Perhaps my view is colored by the fact that my carcass saw (14", 12 tpi) is always right at hand, while my panel saws are a couple of steps and a reach to retrieve from their till. For a single 4" crosscut, I'm quite happy with the Xcut carcass saw and bench hook; it's precise, pretty quick, produces a pretty fine surface and requires minimal work on the shooting board. For anything bigger, the Xcut panel saw (20", 10 tpi)on the saw bench is the tool of choice. The border line is not a rigid thing, of course, and if I have 8-10 of the 4" cross cuts, I'd definitely go to the panel saw.

[steven c newman]

For cutting 1 x 4 stock..
IMG_2011 (640x480).jpg
Works every time, always set up. Any angle can be cut, as needed. Langdon No. 75
Can also cut a saw kerf from the end of a board, and still have it square. BTDT....

[Tom Blank]

Perhaps my view is colored by the fact that my carcass saw (14", 12 tpi) is always right at hand, while my panel saws are a couple of steps and a reach to retrieve from their till. For a single 4" crosscut, I'm quite happy with the Xcut carcass saw and bench hook; it's precise, pretty quick, produces a pretty fine surface and requires minimal work on the shooting board. For anything bigger, the Xcut panel saw (20", 10 tpi)on the saw bench is the tool of choice. The border line is not a rigid thing, of course, and if I have 8-10 of the 4" cross cuts, I'd definitely go to the panel saw.

Jim,

My xcut backsaw is 15 tpi and it loaded up badly cutting across the 4" face. Do you find 12 tpi has sufficient gullet space for that wide a cut?

Tom