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Thread: Suggestions for replacement bandsaw motor, or should I just buy new saw?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
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    Northern Illinois
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Decker View Post
    Mike,

    I'll let others advise you on the motor as I'm an electrical dummy. You mentioned that your saw is 30 years old, and that you avoid changing the blade. If your blade is old it's most likely dull, which will cause it to wander a lot during resawing, regardless of how much you adjust the fence for drift.

    If you get the motor running, definitely try a new blade. My 14" saw (Rikon) resaws very nicely with a 1/2" blade, 3 or 4 tpi. The manual says it'll handle a 3/4" blade and I did try that. Yes, it'll fit on the saw and no, it's not a good blade for a 14" saw.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Allen1010 View Post
    Thanks everyone for all your help – you guys are awesome! Before I submitted this post I was ready to pre-much give up on this saw, but based in your feedback I'm encouraged to keep at it.


    Based on the feedback here my plan is try replacing the capacitor and set this saw up with a narrower blade for cutting curves and also look for a larger saw with greater resawing capacity. Max re-saw depth for this saw is about 5" and it goes really slow, even in soft woods. Correction: I misspoke and my OP, I actually have 1/2", 3 TPI blade. I looked for an extension block that would fit but couldn't figure it out. In any event I would like more power.


    I'm posting again to provide some additional information and ask a couple follow-up questions. I apologize in advance because I know my questions are naïve and, likely overly broad. Any suggestions are much appreciated!


    There appear to be 2 external fittings on the motor: one about 4" long X 11/2" wide x 2" tall. This piece has a rounded/curved top. The 2nd fitting is smaller, rectangular and sort of "wedge" shaped in height.


    Little information plate on the outside of my motor says:
    induction motor
    rpm 1720
    4 pole
    wired: 110, one phase, 60 Hz
    made in Taiwan, 1980


    1) Where can I find/what should I Google to find a supplier who could sell me a new capacitor? While I'm at it, my on-off switch is broken – it still works, but the Bakelite off button pops out and falls on the ground. I appreciate any advice about where I could also find a new switch (doesn't have to match the original).


    2) Is it viable to put a more powerful motor on this saw that would still run on 110 volts? If so, what am I looking for and where could I buy one?


    3) Thanks a lot Chris for all your help and suggestions; I'm a big fan of vintage tools and a believer in the virtues of mass and cast-iron. Any suggestions about what type/model of a larger, vintage band saw that could get me closer to 8-10" of re-saw capacity? Are these saws really availab locally in Southern California le via something like Craigslist etc.? I would think out of state shipping costs would be prohibitive – right?


    I want to set this saw up for resawing, ripping and then leave it alone.


    I really appreciate everybody's time and consideration. Thanks very much for your help!


    Best, Mike
    I would just try replacing the capacitor and installing a 1/2" blade for a start. The capacitor should be located inside the oblong rounded cover on the outside of the motor. The hardest part of replacing may be getting at the screws on the cover depending on location. I just replaced one on my jointer. Easy. Maybe take a picture of the wiring before disconnecting just in case it makes a difference which terminals get connected to which wires. For saw setup I bought a small step by step book by Alex Snodgrass of Carter Bandsaw Products. It makes setup easy. I own a 14" Rikon Deluxe 325; now model 326 I think. It has a 1 1/2 hp motor and 11" re saw capacity more than I have ever needed. Not the best saw but very good and not that expaenxive.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    Just look up small electric motor parts and/or repair, they should be able to supply you with a capacitor and if you're not comfortable installing it they could install it for you.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Doylestown, PA
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    7,551
    little information plate on the outside of my motor says:
    induction motor
    rpm 1720
    4 pole
    wired: 110, one phase, 60 Hz
    made in Taiwan, 1980
    If it were me, I'd check for open or shorted windings before spending too much money on that motor. Far Eastern motors of that era were not noted for their durability. I think the problem with them is that the insulating varnish was pretty thin. I recall Forrest Addy going on about that, they needed "another dip and bake". A new capacitor? Sure, it's only a few bucks. But beyond that, try to learn how to check windings for opens and shorts.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    California, USA
    Posts
    2
    Sometimes, when you increase horsepower you worry about the drive train being able to handle the extra torque. However, the “drive train” of a bandsaw is a belt. I expect you will have no problems. The worst case scenario is that you need to buy a stronger belt.
    Of course, the other issue is mounting the new motor. That may take some creative engineering.
    If you are doing any resawing or big band saw boxes, you want all the power you can get and this motor will help a lot. If you are just working with flat wood, why bother?

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Iowa USA
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    As a electrician I can suggest if the motor was working one day and not the next, the advice for blowing the sawdust out and trying again is great. Unless the motor let the smoke out the next thing is the capacitor.

    With my Jet metal cutting saw the brand and quality of the blade makes a big difference on true cutting or not.
    Retired Guy- Central Iowa.HVAC/R , Cloudray Galvo Fiber , -Windows 10

  6. #21
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    Sep 2009
    Location
    Midland MI
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    Leevalley sells amazing bandsaw blades, I have tried a few others and these are the best in my book, they last a good long time also.

    http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...,41037&p=30276

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Iowa USA
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    4,441
    I was going to add to the other and fotgot, I have purchased bearings, capacitors and other parts from Amazon. Went to a local bearing supply house for example, they could not cross over a bearing part number and they had the old one. Went home, went to Amazon dot com, crossed it over, ordered and had in Two days. I have had good luck with either Starrett or Lenox blades.
    Retired Guy- Central Iowa.HVAC/R , Cloudray Galvo Fiber , -Windows 10

  8. #23
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    Feb 2003
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    Pleasant Grove, UT
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Allen1010 View Post

    3) Thanks a lot Chris for all your help and suggestions; I'm a big fan of vintage tools and a believer in the virtues of mass and cast-iron. Any suggestions about what type/model of a larger, vintage band saw that could get me closer to 8-10" of re-saw capacity? Are these saws really availab locally in Southern California le via something like Craigslist etc.?
    Yes. Right now there's over 100 "bandsaw" listings for Los Angeles. One of them is a MM16 by Minimax, for a price of $1,450. There's a 36" Tannewitz, and an assortment of others.

    I would think out of state shipping costs would be prohibitive – right?
    Costly? Probably. Prohibitive? That depends on the depths of your pockets and strength of your desire.
    It came to pass...
    "Curiosity is the ultimate power tool." - Roy Underhill
    The road IS the destination.

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