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Thread: Yellowing of White Paint - interesting read from General Finishes

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    Coppell, TX
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    908

    Yellowing of White Paint - interesting read from General Finishes

    Might be useful to those considering a Bright White Finish from any manufacturer https://www.facebook.com/generalfini...54709635665566, especially if you're a pro and offering any warranty

  2. #2
    Thanks Andy, that is great information.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Tasmania
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    Interesting read. It is one of the more comprehensive a..covering exercises I have seen lately. White usually covers best of all in my experience. My translation would be:
    We don't use much white pigment
    We don't guarantee anything
    We are ok with posting advice we haven't tested for ourselves
    Timber is too variable for our products to reliably work.

    I do agree that clear coats over paint ate a bad idea. If your paint needs protecting with clear, it is not good enough. Buy one that does work. Auto paints changed from solid colours to clear over base to cut costs, not to improve durability. Cheers

  4. #4
    Sounds like the best option is to not use GF white paint.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    WNY
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    9,648
    The article seems to be a response to problems they heard from with people using their white paints on up-cycled projects. They made it a point to say they had never heard of a problem with Enduro White Poly. Nor have I had any. I use BIN white pigmented shellac primer under Enduro White Poly on maple and birch cabinets. I've never had any staining, yellowing, etc. None of those pieces are more than about 3 years but, so far, so good.

    John

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Southwestern CT
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    1,392
    Great info ... thanks for posting. White paints from many suppliers will yellow ... especially if they are alkyd based (like BM Advance). How many of you folks add topcoats? I know John has always used shellac primers. I have been less methodical about that, but also paint mostly (only) new millwork, typically soft maple or poplar and MDO or baltic birch with what I suspect are lower tannins. Still, I think I will start using shellac primers as a rule.
    "the mechanic that would perfect his work must first sharpen his tools.” Confucius

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
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    9,648
    Bill, I have used WB primers, too. But I have switched to BIN shellac based pigmented primer for almost all paint work now. There are several reasons for that. BIN shellac based primer has a viscosity of about 35 sec. #4 Ford cup, so you can spray it with most any HVLP set up. SW's Wood and Plaster Primer, or named something similar, has a viscosity of about 500 sec. Yes, 500 seconds; it's as thick as their WB Pro Classic. You aren't spraying either of those w/o a pressure system, which I now have, but still see no need to use their primer. BIN shellac based primer sticks to most anything and it blocks stains. It dries very quickly, so you can move on in an hour or less. It also doesn't raise the grain like WB primers can and often do, so there's less sanding to do to get ready for the next coat of primer or paint. And it's pretty cheap and readily available locally; always a good thing. I'm spraying a cabinet with it today, actually.

    John

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