18 ga pneumatic brad nailer advice?

[James Biddle]

From my research I decided to go with Omer. Havent been disappointed since.

I've wanted to replace my Senco, 18ga, 1-1/4" nailer for awhile. I need an 18ga that supports longer nails. I wanted to love the Grex because of my 23ga Grex pin nailer. But everything I read said the 18ga is nowhere near the same quality of the 23ga. I can't buy their 18ga nailer because of the good ratings of the 23, even though my experience is the same; Grex makes a really good 23ga pin nailer.

I have a Omer 15ga nailer with plastic pins that I bought when I bought my CNC to nail stuff onto the CNC table without the fear of destroying a cutter for whenever I screw up. It's worked flawlessly shooting plastic nails through MDF and Plywood and releasing with a hammer whack.

My biggest complaint against Omer? They make, arguably the best nailer on the planet and surround it with the worst packaging ever. It comes in a box, not a plastic box, with the nailer shifting around enough to break the foam inserts. But, damn if it doesn't shoot nails better than everything I've ever used.

[andy bessette]

I just had my old SP20 rebuilt. Great tool.

[roger wiegand]

Based on reading here and elsewhere I've ordered the Omer. I'll let you know what I think when it arrives, but it will be a decade ir so before I know anything about reliability (I hope!!)

Also interested in getting my Senco refurbished, but I need a working tool sooner than that.

[John TenEyck]

I had a Bosch 2" 18 gage that I got for free when I bought a 12" DCMS. It was great for about 2 years, then quite. Glad I didn't pay for it. Well maybe I did, actually. Anyway, I now have a red Senco and it's been fine so far, no misfires, though I doubt I've run 1K brads through it yet.

I'm finding brad nailers of limited use. They are great for work where an occasional mistake is OK, but for most of the trim work I do, the kind where mistakes really show and time is not nearly as important as a "perfect" result, I find the old manual method with hammer and nail set best. After 5 or 6 instances where the brad took a 90° turn and blew out the side, or turned around completely and came back out right next to the entry hole, I don't use a nailer anymore when it really counts. The old school approach of predrilling the hole, and setting the brad with a nail set rarely fails. This certainly isn't an approach a pro trim carpenter can use to install a house full of molding, but it's what I do installing door and most cabinet trim. The only place I now first reach for a nailer is when it comes to the little 23 gage pin nailer, which is just about perfect for delicate trim.

John

[larry senen]

the omer site is not clear on whether or not one gun can drive plastic AND metal pins. does it?

[andy bessette]

Plastic pins blow!

[James Biddle]

Plastic pins blow!

I've had the exact opposite experience using my Omer gun and Raptor nails; they hold stuff down on my CNC and release with the whack of a hammer. That is, they have a lot of tensile strength and much less shear strength. What was your application?

My Omer nailer for plastic nails is 15ga and my Omer trim nailer is 18ga, so I can't comment on the interchangeability.

[andy bessette]

18-gauge plastic pins were supplied me by Raptor to try in various boat building applications. Only the very shortest ones worked in the very softest of wood, wood unsuitable for any of my uses. In all materials I commonly use (teak, various mahogany, fir, various plywood) the pins virtually exploded every time I pulled the trigger.

[Tim Bueler]

I have several various Senco pinners and staplers. Had one recently start acting up like Roger's. Even though it's an oil-less nailer, and since I needed it right then, I dumped some air oil in it. Maybe 15 or 20 drops. I'll be goll danged if it hasn't worked flawlessly since. Might be worth a shot if you're going to can it anyhow.

[Pete Staehling]

If you have problems with any nailer, it might makes sense to look at the nails, pins, or brads first. In my limited experience, the HF ones don't work well in even a good gun and the good stuff works well in even the HF guns.

[Brian Behrens]

I built a new house last year. I trimmed the entire house with a Hitachi 18 ga I got at Lowe's. I shot 2 boxes of 2" brads in the 3/4" solid wood trim and casings without one hiccup. That's 10,000 brads. I used 2" because the trim is on solid T&G walls. I still use the Hitachi all the time in the shop. I think I paid around $79 for it.

[Dave Cav]

I built a new house last year. I trimmed the entire house with a Hitachi 18 ga I got at Lowe's. I shot 2 boxes of 2" brads in the 3/4" solid wood trim and casings without one hiccup. That's 10,000 brads. I used 2" because the trim is on solid T&G walls. I still use the Hitachi all the time in the shop. I think I paid around $79 for it.

Is that the combo nailer/stapler?

[Lisa Starr]

I'm on my 2nd Grizzly Brad Nailer. The first one lasted 17 years. It shoots 3/4" thru 2" nails with no trouble and without needing any adjustments when you change sizes. I'd avoid the Nailer/Stapler Combo unit, as the one I used for a small job, left too large of a divet when shooting brads, at least for my liking.

[Brian Behrens]

Is that the combo nailer/stapler?

, No it is just a nailer

[Ray Frederick]

What PSI are you all running your 18 gauge guns at?

I've been getting poor performance from a Porter Cable 18 gauge on one of the tiny 100 psi max 1/3hp Harbor Freight compressors. Trying to narrow down if the issue is the gun or the compressor just isn't up to the task. Mostly nailing into Poplar in 3/4" thickness. Not setting has been the main issue, or the bending over itself.

Works fine with my 23 gauge guns but I know that doesn't prove anything. Don't have another gun handy at the moment and both the carpenters who work with me have gone all cordless except 23 gauge so they are no help. I'm cordless with my 16 gauge but stick to air for the 18 and 23.