magnet to hold lathe chisels

[Perry Hilbert Jr]

Is there any problem using a magnetic bar to hold the lathe chisels that are being used in a project? I have a stand that looks a bit like a music stand. I can leave a lower ledge and just put two magnet strip tool holders across the top to hold the chisels. I tried the magnets with my sears set of chisels and they were held up right just fine.

[Steve Schlumpf]

If/when your tools become magnetized, they will stick to your tool rest and fight you for control of your cuts. My experience, yours may be different.

[Ted Baxter]

when tools are magnetized the steel filing will stick to the edges when you sharpen them.

I gave three tools to my son today to take to his work and demagnetize them for me.

I inadvertnely laid them on a magnet

I also have experienced the tools sticking to my tool rest.

[Bob Vallaster]

For the past 20 years I have had all my tools mounted to a 36"' bar magnet placed on the wall behind my lathe.
I observe some slight magnetization, but nothing to cause me inconvenience. Despite an observable attraction of the tools for a rest, I have no problem moving a tool at will on a rest, nor is there any difficulty removing the tools from the rest when I want.
I do not have a problem with ground metal hanging on to tools: a light knock on the corner of my wooden bench shakes off what little wants to go for a ride.

BobV

[John K Jordan]

I gave three tools to my son today to take to his work and demagnetize them for me.

I very much dislike magnetized lathe tools for the reasons mentioned. The steel dust sticking to the end of the blade is especially aggravating when I use the dry CBN wheel on the Tormek turning away from the edge - the steel dust sticks to the tool in a long trail which obscures the edge.

I keep a demagnetizer by the sharping station. I haven't tried the inexpensive demagnetizers you pull a tool through, maybe they do the job. I use a bulk tape demagnetizer that plugs into AC and uses an electromagnet with an alternating field. This works extremely well and only takes a few seconds to completely demagnetize a tool. I've had this tape demagnetizer since the early '70s but maybe one could be found in a flea market.

BTW, lathe tools can become magnetized by simply using them on the lathe. The vibration of use combined with the earth's magnetic field is enough. The effect is stronger if the tools are aligned a certain way to the earth. My lathe tools never touch magnets and still eventually become magnetized enough to trail steel dust on the Tormek.

JKJ

[Bill Boehme]

I very much dislike magnetized lathe tools for the reasons mentioned. The steel dust sticking to the end of the blade is especially aggravating when I use the dry CBN wheel on the Tormek turning away from the edge - the steel dust sticks to the tool in a long trail which obscures the edge.

I keep a demagnetizer by the sharping station. I haven't tried the inexpensive demagnetizers you pull a tool through, maybe they do the job. I use a bulk tape demagnetizer that plugs into AC and uses an electromagnet with an alternating field. This works extremely well and only takes a few seconds to completely demagnetize a tool. I've had this tape demagnetizer since the early '70s but maybe one could be found in a flea market.

BTW, lathe tools can become magnetized by simply using them on the lathe. The vibration of use combined with the earth's magnetic field is enough. The effect is stronger if the tools are aligned a certain way to the earth. My lathe tools never touch magnets and still eventually become magnetized enough to trail steel dust on the Tormek.

JKJ

I recently got a CBN wheel for my Tormek and observed the same annoyance with filing dust sticking to the cutting edge. Ken Rizza at Woodturners Wonders recommended using the wheel dry, but I went back to using the wheel in a water bath and like that far better. I also have a rare-earth magnet glued to the exterior of the water tray and all of the filings collect at that spot on the inside. This keeps the water clean.

Ken tried to talk me into a 600 grit CBN wheel, but I wanted a 1200 grit wheel. Eventually, I settled on a 1000 grit wheel. It doesn't quite match the Tormek gray stone in bevel smoothness, but it's getting better as it wears in.

[John K Jordan]

I recently got a CBN wheel for my Tormek and observed the same annoyance with filing dust sticking to the cutting edge. Ken Rizza at Woodturners Wonders recommended using the wheel dry, but I went back to using the wheel in a water bath and like that far better. I also have a rare-earth magnet glued to the exterior of the water tray and all of the filings collect at that spot on the inside. This keeps the water clean.
Ken tried to talk me into a 600 grit CBN wheel, but I wanted a 1200 grit wheel. Eventually, I settled on a 1000 grit wheel. It doesn't quite match the Tormek gray stone in bevel smoothness, but it's getting better as it wears in.

The auto magnetism I observe is not strong enough to stick the tool to the rest so the water bath sounds like a good solution - I could probably quit using the demagnetizer.

For some reason Ken is a strong believer in using CBN dry. I know several people who said they use them wet on a Tormek. One problem with water is with the steel wheels but Ken's are aluminum. I think I'll try it with the water bath the next time I sharpen. I have dribbled the blue Trend diamond lapping fluid on the wheel which seems to improve the edge a bit. I bought some HoneRite Gold (water based concentrate) which is a lot cheaper but haven't tried it yet. (I always use some kind of fluid when using my steel diamond plates for hand lapping.)

I started with a 600 grit wheel from Ken. I switched later to a 1200 - he had to special order it. I think he said the only other one he sold was to a guy who wanted to sharpen scalpels.

I like the 1200 a lot better for my spindle gouges. the 600 is now on the shelf - it was an expensive experiment. I talked about this with Michael Gibson the other day. He's happy with the 1000 grit wheel. He hones/polishes the edges of some tools as do I. I do use a 600 CBN on a grinder to sharpen other tools and coarser CBN for shaping. It would not be reasonable to heavily reshape a tool with the Tormek, especially with the 1200 grit.

BTW, the 1200 grit CBN on the Tormek (used dry) still does not give me the edge quality I got with the Tormek water wheel. However, it may improve with time. But just as you mentioned, Reed Grey said his CBN wheels improved after a break-in period. If this takes a month of sharpening on a bench grinder it may take me a few years on the slow speed Tormek!

Oh, one comment on CBN: I'm not so sure CBN is the best abrasive for the Tormek, perhaps diamond would be better. The big advantage of CBN for grinding wheels is it is not degraded by heat as is diamond. Since there is no heat with the Tormek compared to a grinder I think diamond would be a better choice - it is harder and cuts better than CBN. If I'd thought it through I wold have ordered the 1200 grit wheel in diamond rather than CBN.

JKJ

[Kyle Iwamoto]

My tools got magnetized not seeing a magnet either.
I use Japanese car (aluminum radiator compatible) coolant for my Tormek CBN wheel. I got it bacause I was wearing out the Blackstone wheel. I like mine. 600 grit.
Who makes a diamond wheel for the Tormek?

[Bill Boehme]

Ken actually had some or maybe one 1200 grit wheel at SWAT. Even though aluminum doesn't easily corrode I don't leave it in the water overnight. I remove the wheel and dry it with a towel although that's probably going way overboard. If you don't have the EZ Lock nut and SS shaft with LH threads, I highly recommend it. My old gray wheel was getting close to its minimum diameter so after getting home from SWAT I also ordered a new gray wheel, a Blackstone wheel, a new leather honing wheel, a drive wheel, and new shaft. My Tormek is nearly twenty years old so I decided it was time for a major overhaul ... not that any of the parts were showing their age.

One problem that I discovered with Ken's wheel for the Tormek is that the hub is recessed on both sides about 3/16" and not just the outside like the Tormek wheels. The result was that the wheel rubbed against the housing. I had to get an extra spacer for the shaft to move the wheel about 0.20" further outboard. The spacer needs to be wide enough to allow the water tray to be installed. I don't know why Ken didn't see that problem even if the wheel is used dry.

[John K Jordan]

Who makes a diamond wheel for the Tormek?

I don't know. Tormek used to advertise one but I can find no reference to it now. Woodcarvers Supply used to sell one but I don't see it now. Perhaps these cost too much and few were purchased so they were dropped.

I suspect Ken Rizza of Woodturners Wonders can have one made. The reason I think that is he can special order plates with either diamond or CBN. He can also special order wheels in almost any configuration so I suspect he can order a wheel to fit the Tormek with a diamond grit instead of CBN. He always answers the phone (when he can.)

Oh I just found this, a bit out of town for me: http://t-jtools.co.uk/diamond-and-cb...-coated-wheel/

JKJ