Originally Posted by
Edwin Santos
Jim, the typical method for making a traditional saw guide is to make the bottom slightly oversize such that the first cut along the rabbetted ledge with your circular saw trims it to a precise zero clearance cut line. The cutting precision is precisely identical to a packaged, branded track saw. And for stability, there are various methods for helping it "stay put". Mine was to coat the bottom with a spray can of plasti-dip.
Again, not that I'm knocking track saws or suggesting they are hype because we both agree on some of the unique features. But there is nothing they do that a traditional sawboard guide with a decent circular saw cannot do in terms of actual and precise cutting.
I don't disagree that one can do a pretty good job with a "traditional" saw guide, but the stability refinements and optimized saws that come with today's track saws are pretty appealing to many of us. I rarely used my standard circular saw (an orange B&D from the late 1970s ) but have used my track saw more than I expected and for things I wouldn't have thought of a few years ago, too. In fact, I'm using it for the wall covering for my current stairwell enclosure project upstairs in my shop building...because of the mobility/flexibility and the dust collection. It's come in handy to "fix" things on already assembled cabinetry and quite a few projects in our home where I wouldn't dream of firing up the ol' B&D, both with short and long tracks and with the multi-function table. It's nice to have choices!
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...