Learned something very interesting today! and a question.

[Lane Hardy]

That's ok David that is why we are all here to share our thoughts and ideas and knowledge!

Wecolme to the Creek,

Lane

[John K Jordan]

This diagram is what really threw me.

Yikes, I see what you mean - that diagram is simplified in the worst way, very misleading! I think any reasonable, thinking person without experience with contactors would be confused. I would be tempted to draw on a paper copy and mail it to them.

Good luck with your installation! Putting in a cyclone was probably the smartest thing I've done in years.

JKJ

[David L Morse]

Yes, that diagram is worse than misleading, it's just plain wrong. It completely misrepresents the function of the product. iVac really needs to fix that.

[Jim Becker]

...but if working on the contactor after unplugging don't forget the control voltage to the coil!

Also on a plug. But yes, it's important not to forget!

[Dave Cav]

Coming a little late to the party, but here's how I turn my D/C on and off.

First I got a 30 amp 2 pole relay with a 120 VAC coil on Ebay, less than $10. I also got a small metal enclosure for it. The D/C power leads are wired through the relay/contactor. To actuate the 120 volt coil I got a wireless remote Christmas tree light switch from Amazon, and three fobs. A regular power cord is connected to the relay coil and plugged into the wireless remote outlet, which is in turn plugged into a wall outlet. One fob is on my apron strap, one is on the wall between the RAS and TS, and one is by the bandsaws.

I also installed a light switch type two pole disconnect switch below the relay, and wired an LED pilot light to the disconnect. Total cost for everything was probably less than $60.

[Brad Alexander]

I put a simple AC relay in a box with a 24V transformer, wired to two speaker connectors on the outside of the box, and mounted a microswitch on each blast gate, (home made). Run doorbell wire down the DC pipe with duct tape. I pull open the gate, the DC comes on, I close the gate, it turns off. Im not good at keeping track of remotes....

[John K Jordan]

... pull open the gate, the DC comes on, I close the gate, it turns off. I'm not good at keeping track of remotes....

A nice solution, Brad. Should be a lot cheaper than buying one of the automated systems!

I'm terrible at keeping up with remote transmitters too and thought about doing something like you did. For those not ready or not able to automate the blast gates this is how I keep from misplacing a remote 1) NEVER carry one around. 2) Get multiple remotes and hang them on the wall at the most used stations. That also lets me keep a blast gate open when working, for example, at the bandsaw on-and-off all day. In my case the blast gate for the bandsaw is not convenient to the operator side of the bandsaw.

JKJ

[Jim Becker]

OTOH, my centrally located wall switch on the control-side never gets lost or is more than a few steps away. And it keeps me from hurrying, which in turn can cause mistakes or in worst case, injury. Darn inexpensive, too...SPST wall switches sell for next to nothing.

[John K Jordan]

OTOH, my centrally located wall switch on the control-side never gets lost... Darn inexpensive, too...

Go ahead, rub it in. Admit it, you're just a brilliant cheapskate. But consider the boost to the economy if you changed your ways.

JKJ

[Jim Becker]

Go ahead, rub it in. Admit it, you're just a brilliant cheapskate. But consider the boost to the economy if you changed your ways.

JKJ

Actually, the centrally located wall switch was a "change my ways" decision. I did the "Lone Ranger" thing with my original small cyclone. Then it was an X10 setup with a 240v switch unit recommended by Oneida when I put in the larger cyclone. Then I bought a bunch of extra fobs and tried velcroing them to machine stations. And then I said {expletive} it...and dumped all that when the third X10 switch tanked, build the contactor unit I posted about previously and decided to go with the single wall switch. I ain't lookin' back...

[David Justice]

So, I finally have this all wired up and complete and it's working great. I hardwired the contactor straight to the breaker. Is there any reason why I wouldn't want to do that? At this point it wouldn't be hard for me to add an outlet and and a plug from the contactor.

[Jim Becker]

So, I finally have this all wired up and complete and it's working great. I hardwired the contactor straight to the breaker. Is there any reason why I wouldn't want to do that? At this point it wouldn't be hard for me to add an outlet and and a plug from the contactor.

Hard wiring to the breaker "works", but doesn't provide you with a true disconnect down-stream from the breaker. For me, that was accomplished with a 240v wall socket and a 240v plug of appropriate amperage for the line and a similar setup on the control side. With both unplugged...zero voltage can get to the cyclone.