[OP]
Member
Bought this one on the e place a few weeks ago and have not been able to identify it. Has no marking whatsoever, none on crank arm, main gear, nada. I was attracted to it by the way the handle opens & the amount of brass it has. Any help identifying it would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
Charlie Williams2
Contributor
Millers Falls No. 3, may be a No. 03. has a hollow handle to store drill bits/ points in.
Last edited by steven c newman; 10-31-2017 at 10:46 PM.
Member
Millers Falls eggbeaters usually have the name stamped on the flat of the crank handle, sometimes rather lightly.
Member
I like Steven's MF-3 identity
The crank handle looks like a replacement (thats why it has that extra hole in it) which would explain why there's no MF name stamp there.
Last edited by Rob Paul; 11-01-2017 at 9:24 PM.
Contributor
It's a MF No 3 made between 1915-1925. The handle is a replacement. The original for the No 3 is bent where it attaches to the main gear. Some other identifiers of the age is the red main gear. Prior to 1915 it was black. In 1921 the crank handle identifier was changed from a star in the logo to a triangular MF marking (but you can't tell this from the handle). In 1925 the McCoy's chuck was replaced by a Ryther's chuck. I enjoy restoring these and have done a few No 3's. They are one of the easiest to restore. Attached is a No 3 from 1905-1910 (no marking on crank handle), 1910-1915 (black main gear with star in logo on crank handle) and 1915-1921 (red main gear). FYI, a No 03 has a double pinion (2 small gears).
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Last edited by Robert Hartmann; 11-01-2017 at 10:27 PM.
[OP]
Member
Many thanks to Steven C. Newman, Bill Houghton, Rob Paul and Robert Hartmann for their help in identifying my eggbeater. The crank arm threw me when I was looking at it on ebay, especially the off center second hole. After receiving it I could tell it was not the original arm due to the ''remanufacturing marks'' on it but with no other markings I was stumped even after looking at Randy Roeders site. This is just my third restore of an eggbeater so I'm still learning. Now I need to find an arm that dates to 1915-1925, and a set of replacement jaws; the ones that are in this one 2 have a pin broken off one side, other than that everything seems to be in good shape. I've recently done a no.2 for my daughter and a no. 1 for my son, and needless to say I'm hooked by these MF eggbeaters.
Thanks again for every ones help.
Charlie W2
[OP]
Member
Robert I very much appreciate the insight you shared on this eggbeater. Some very nice restore work on the ones in the photos. I have some questions regarding finding parts for mine, do you happen to have a boneyard of old eggbeaters you would sell parts from and if not is putting a request in the classifieds on this site my next best option? Another question, this regarding Japanese eggbeaters, are you familiar with one that has PREMIER on it? The first eggbeater I bought has this name on it and JAPAN on one of the ferrules. Any info you are able to give regarding these questions would be very much appreciated.
Thank you
Charlie2
Contributor
Charlie, sorry, but I know nothing about Japanese tools. I would assume if it was Japanese it would have Japanese on it vs English. I guess it could have been made in Japan for sale in the US or UK.
I have two spare jaws for the McCoy's chuck. I also have a star logo crank arm (no knob) I can pass on. You can take the knob off of the crank arm you have and reuse it (which is probably what was done with yours). Just pass on an address to send them to. No need to pay, I don't need them. As for finding parts I haven't had much luck finding specific parts. In the past I've just bought another donor drill that was cheap...probably how I ended up with extra parts. I never really thought about asking fellow creekers. I have noticed you can't always use parts from another drill. There was more human involvement in the manufacturing process back then, so there tends to be some subtle differences that can keep a drill from functioning smoothly.
The arm I have looks bad, but will clean up very well. I soak metal parts in Evapo Rust over night and then go through sandpaper (usually start with 220 or 320 and go up to 2500 followed by polish). I always do them by hand to avoid over sanding, but that's just me. The first drill I attached, without any markings on the crank arm, is one of the newer ones I've done. The others were a couple of the first ones I did. I attached a before and after pic of the drill to see the difference. The crank arm I'll send is better than this one.
To take the knob off of the handle you have, use a needle file with safety edges if possible and file the edges of the shaft of the knob (where it's peened on). It's a bit tedious, but works. Then just peen it back on the arm I'll send (after you clean both up). I've found it easier to remove the knob before cleaning/polishing them.
Rob
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[OP]
Member
Rob, thanks very much for the donated parts, they are exactly the pieces I need to get this one finished. My process is the same as yours, Evapo Rust followed by the same sand papers. I've already removed the knob from the arm and it's in very good shape considering its past. My shipping address is ..........
Charlie Williams 106 Landons Way Georgetown, TX 78633. Thanks again for your generosity.
Charlie2
Member
Found this one when cleaning up the shop a few months back. Didn't know I had it. Thor Tools, Bridgeport CT.
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