GRK #8 1-1/2" Screws - issues?

[mike waters]

hahaha thanks martin
yes, 2" is stupid (I know)
I was planing on doing 4" OC..

I was lucky the wood didn't split...

[Bill Adamsen]

I use 2" #7 black high threads for assembling carcases. Usually 5 screws on a side (22" to 23-1/2"). I'm careful to make the back (typically 1/2") the exact size of the carcase and use that to square and ensure the sides are straight (and parallel) during glue-up. I use either the 2" or 1-1/4" screws on the back typically around 6 inches apart. Most folks use staples for the backs but I like the holding power of screws. I would think you'd want to square before the glue sets.

[mike waters]

I use 2" #7 black high threads for assembling carcases. Usually 5 screws on a side (22" to 23-1/2"). I'm careful to make the back (typically 1/2") the exact size of the carcase and use that to square and ensure the sides are straight (and parallel) during glue-up. I use either the 2" or 1-1/4" screws on the back typically around 6 inches apart. Most folks use staples for the backs but I like the holding power of screws. I would think you'd want to square before the glue sets.

Think I will be ok with #8 1-1/2" that are countersinked 1/4"?IMG_1676.jpg

Seems to be pretty deep (to me)

[Randy Viellenave]

Mike, The screws should be countersunk only as far as you need to go. Unless you're stuffing a plug in after them (for aesthetics), keep them just below the surface, this will retain as much thickness as possible to apply force to the joint.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I wouldn't bother with the countersink and I would just drive them until the head is just past the surface.

<--- This. Or - if you want to use the countersink - -switch over to wood screws. I love GRK & Timbermate, but, I've had a lot better luck getting wood screws to behave like I want them to.

(switch over to fewer screws like people are saying & )Smear some glue on there and it will take an act of God to make it come apart.

[Bill Adamsen]

Think I will be ok with #8 1-1/2" that are countersinked 1/4"?IMG_1676.jpg

Nice job with the rabbett and glue on baltic birch. Clean job, those should be strong.

GRK makes really fantastic screws, my favorite when they make a screw for the purpose 'm looking ... for instance I love their cabinet screws. Their R4 is a fantastic screw for solid wood ... love it for framing and GRK does the best job with fabricating a star drive screw. You will never get a metal splinter from GRK screws and the same cannot be said for the big box bugles. For sheet goods I just prefer a phillips drive bugle head. The heads of a #7 are a bit larger (about 15%) that the #8 R4, but frankly it is the speed at which they can be installed I prefer, as well as the price. I pre-drill and countersink, more to keep the panels from shifting and allow disassembling to glue and reassemble. The heads clamp down right at or below the surface. Just enough to allow cabinet carcases to stack next to each other.

[mike waters]

Nice job with the rabbett and glue on baltic birch. Clean job, those should be strong.

GRK makes really fantastic screws, my favorite when they make a screw for the purpose 'm looking ... for instance I love their cabinet screws. Their R4 is a fantastic screw for solid wood ... love it for framing and GRK does the best job with fabricating a star drive screw. You will never get a metal splinter from GRK screws and the same cannot be said for the big box bugles. For sheet goods I just prefer a phillips drive bugle head. The heads of a #7 are a bit larger (about 15%) that the #8 R4, but frankly it is the speed at which they can be installed I prefer, as well as the price. I pre-drill and countersink, more to keep the panels from shifting and allow disassembling to glue and reassemble. The heads clamp down right at or below the surface. Just enough to allow cabinet carcases to stack next to each other.

Thanks!
here is the finished carcass.
cut the next two today. Will assemble tomorrow.
Going with 5" oc for screw spacing.m
got the cabinet within 1/32" square. In happy