Refinishing Cherry Staircase

[Michael Sam Weber]

Greetings - I am new to this august gathering of woodworking wisdom. My families heritage (the tradition broken by the loss of m Grandfather during world war 2) was in creating wooden musical instruments such as violins.

My wife and I recently purchased an old (150 years) Michigan home. We are intent on refinishing some of its cherrywood features, such as the staircase pictured herein. What would help us most is a layman's type step-by-step guide on how to go about refinishing and preserving the homes antique cherrywood. We do not want to alter the woods color, what we do want is a smart means of presenting its natural beauty at its best, and preserving it for many decades to come.

The stairs are as you see them in the pictures sanded to 150 grit. I plan on sanding them again with 220 grit--hoping that that will be adequate.

Advance thanks,
Michael


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[Jim Becker]

Well, my personal choice for finishing cherry is oil (typically BLO), a barrier coat of de-waxed shellac and a water borne top coat. If you are going to use an oil based product, you can go right to it if you wish or oil first, let it cure for a few days and then go to your clear-coats. The cherry will get darker over time...the sanding exposed bare wood which is not oxidized and darkened by UV yet.

And I'm very envious of that beautiful woodwork in your new home!!

[Scott Holmes]

Sanding is not a good way to remove old finish. (unless you are sanding a wooden floor; removing a lot of wood) Sanding with 150 then 220 will not remove the old finish from the pores of the wood so any color you apply will have a tendency to be inconsistent and blotchy. (cherry is blotchy anyway this will make it worse).

A chemical stripper then a light sanding with 150 would be my approach. Adding color is not in your plan; however, most finishes will impart some color. Water borne finishes don't impart much color and tend to look washed out. A blond de-waxed shellac will pop the grain and add just enough color to look nice. Then a top coat of your choice. Since it is stairs a good polyurethane would work. It will add some amber color and it will turn yellowish with age. A water borne poly floor finish would be the easiest.

I suggest you test a small area with the water-borne poly and see if you like the look. After applying your finish coats (2 or 3) a light sanding before the last coat will help make it smooth to the touch. 220 or 320 is fine for this last finish sanding before the final coat. If you use the water-borne poly floor finish and like the look; you can skip the shellac altogether. If it's a bit whitewashed to you the shellac before the poly will help with the color.