2x6x16’ oak handrail shaping questions

[gary wenzl]

A little background info (and keep in mind that I’m just a wanna be woodworker).

I’ve been searching (with no luck) on how to best make the roundover on a 2”x6”x16’ oak handrail (its very heavy)

I purchased a grizzly C153h5 router bit for my 3-1/4 hp router. But after receiving it the box says max 12,500 rpm (web site said 24,000 rpm). My PC isn’t a variable speed router.

So I ordered a collet spindle for my little 1-1/2hp g1035 shaper. I made a taller fence for it thinking I could tilt my baby feeder 90 degrees and run it against the vertical (6”) handrail. But now that little voice inside me is telling me not a good idea.

Rethinking it I am now considering either an additional tall board fence and clamp. And using the baby feed like I normally

Or maybe a stackable feather board.

Or make this an excuse to own a new router!

I also purchased a C1584 finger groove bit that I was going to use first before the round over.

I have 4 rigid flip top feed supports and 4 roller style supports that I was planning on using with the shaper.

[Bradley Gray]

I would want to use a router. !6' long and heavy is gonna require more set up than it's worth to run 1 piece.

I would double check with Grizzly about the speed and get a different bit if necessary.

[gary wenzl]

Thanks Brad , and I did check with grizzly. First call the guy said don’t worry about it we sell a bunch of those and never a problem. Called back later in the day and the gentleman said he didn’t know but would find out and call me back. He did and confirmed 12,500 rpm is correct.

I guess I could always use another router, (been looking at the 3-1/2 hp Milwaukee).

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Gary,

I would love to see:

1. Pictures of the board
2. The bit that you use (picture, link, etc)
3. Picture of the result

I have installed a few handrails, but, I have never attempted to create my own. I purchased my oak handrails from Home Depot (or similar), cut them to size, added the wall return, applied finish, then installed in place.

I am very curious about your process, setup, equipment as you tackle this task. I can't wait to see the profile that you use for your handrail.

My guess is that the board is far more expensive than just buying the handrail.

Good luck with this, and keep us updated on what you do.

[John R Green]

Gary
They are code spec's for handrail design
Google Stair Code
John

[John TenEyck]

As said, there are codes handrails must meet so make sure you learn what they are and adhere to them. I made these "little" handrails for a job a few years ago. They are only 1-3/4 x 3-3/8". The longest was about 14' long, but it was still pretty heavy.



The top profile was cut with a hand held, fixed speed router. I just connected the router to a Variac to lower the speed. You can buy a cheap one from HF that works fine for about $20. I now have one and have used it w/o problems with my 3+ HP Hitachi whose speed control died. The benefit of using a hand held router is you can use a climb cut and that eliminates tear out, plus of course the hand rail can just lie on the bench.





The side profile was cut on the TS. The angles were cut with the blade set at that angle, the rest was cleaned out with a molding bit.





Use what your have.

John

[gary wenzl]

Very nice John! I like your work!!!
Looks like you may have used s similar router bit for the round over.
I’ll look at a Variac. A guy is probably guessing at the rpm but I think I’d go as slow as what seems practical.

This guy wants a finger groove with no thumb groove.

I knew there was specs for handrails but was thinking more on mounting requirements so thank you, I’ll google it!

I’ll have to learn how to post pictures (not that I’ve taken any yet).

I bought my 12’ boards from the sawmill I use to cut up my logs (I didn’t have longer boards left and low on oak so its a little unusual for my to buy someone else’s cut up logs). Cost was close to $200 and I still have two 12’ boards left over.

So far I’m just completing the last glueup, need to complete it as it’s taking up a lot of room in my little 21x24 shop.

I’ve made one other simple oak 2x2 handrail 14’ long.

Sorry I fat fingered the router bit number earlier, it’s a C1535

http://www.grizzly.com/search/?q=(C1535)

Doubt I’ll ever do this big again, my bad shoulders and arthritis don’t like lugging around those heavy boards all glued together!

[gary wenzl]

John your post was most helpful, I picked up several good points I didn’t even consider. I also really appreciate those photos, a big help!

But I do have one question or clarification, what is a climb cut?

[gary wenzl]

John your post was most helpful, I picked up several good points I didn’t even consider. I also really appreciate those photos, a big help!

But I do have one question or clarification, what is a climb cut?

Edit, never mind, I see now that my shaper will not go down far enough to take smaller cuts and that I’d have to take off the majority in one cut. I was thinking I would do multiple passes like a router.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

[QUOTE=gary wenzl;2743126But I do have one question or clarification, what is a climb cut?[/QUOTE]


http://www.leevalley.com/us/shopping...o.aspx?p=56809

First, think of a spinning car tire. If you drop something onto the tire, it will throw what you dropped on it in the direction that the tire is spinning.

The router spins a bit (that cuts the wood). The bit, like the tire, will have a tendency to want to pull the wood in the direction that the bit is spinning.

If you PUSH the wood into the bit in the opposite direction that the bit is spinning, then the bit kind of pushes back against you as you push into the bit.

If you push the wood into the bit in the same direction that the bit is spinning (a climb cut), then the bit wants to grab that piece of wood and throw it in the same direction that you are trying to push it, and this is more difficult to control.

So, you need to use extreme care when you make a climb cut.

Watch a few youtube videos.

[John TenEyck]

Here is a link to one version of the codes relating to stairs and handrails. http://www.brockportny.org/files/bui...-2006-Code.pdf

To clarify about a climb cut, it is something you should never do on the router table unless you have a power feeder. But it is easily and safely done with a handheld router IF you take small bites. The router will try to run uphill but the force is so low that it's easily controlled. After you reach full depth taking incremental climb cuts you make one last pass the other way. It's surprising how doing that often results in just a little more material being removed.

Thanks for the kind words Gary. Here's what that handrail looked like installed and finished. I built and installed the entire balustrade. The homeowner did the finishing.

[Mel Fulks]

Thank goodness we don't see a lot of those " returned to wall " handrails. They are for the "the rest home"

[John TenEyck]

Thank goodness we don't see a lot of those " returned to wall " handrails. They are for the "the rest home"

Returns prevent the snagging of clothing, purses, etc. and are required by code where I live for residential handrails.

John

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Returns prevent the snagging of clothing, purses, etc. and are required by code where I live for residential handrails.

John

Same here...... so I did it to mine as well.

[Mel Fulks]

Yes, they are required. But we have already covered how to avoid. The stairs are so steep even in most expensive homes
that as late as the 1930s code 8" riser -9" tread were called "cottage stairs". Wouldn't surprise me if they make it even steeper and add rock climbing harness.