grizzly table saw 1023 right tilt cabinet saw

[Chad Barden]

I recently aquired a grizzly table saw 1023 right tilt cabinet saw, for free.
I am having an issue with the T-square fence that originally came with the saw. When I lock the front down, the back of the fence is not secure, I moves about 1/8-1/4” when pressure is applied.
Does anyone know how to remedy this issue or am I looking at buy a new fence/rail system.
On the back of the fence there is a metal plate with two bolts on the top and one the bottom that holds a bearing. If anyone is familiar with this set up.
Suggestions for a replacement would be great if I am wasting my time with the current fence.
One more question, different subject, the saw had a magnetic switch on it that is no longer working. I wired a plug directly to the motor to bypass the switch, in order to confirm the switch was the issue. Are these switches repairable or is there another option I can use for a switch (like a light switch for example) I don’t want to invest too much money in this saw yet. So Id rather fix what I have instead of replacing.
This is my first table saw that isn’t a job site saw, so I am a little out of my league.
Thanks for any help
Chad

[Pat Pollin]

I am not sure if I am picture the right problem but squaring left to right is easy. The far end fence can be adjusted left/right by adjusting the two screws on the angle iron piece. A very small screw movement translates into a relatively large movement at the end of the fence so make small tweaks.

https://stusshed.files.wordpress.com...nceb.jpg?w=468

[Matt Day]

Adjusting the two bolts on the metal tabs adjusts both fence angle and tight the fence locks. I am basing this off Biesemeyer fences, which I believe grizzly copied

Nice score by the way!! I prefer right tilts.

[Cary Falk]

Maybe post a picture of the fence and you would be able to get better help. If it clamps at the back then it isn't the Biesemeyer clone that comes with the saw now. Is it the fence on page 20 of this manual?
http://cdn1.grizzly.com/manuals/g1023_m.pdf

The saw is 220V. You can't use a light switch.
Here are some options for 220V switches
http://www.grizzly.com/search?q=(220...20v+OR+switch)

[Matt Day]

Cary, you can technically use a light switch as long as it’s 220v, right?

That light switch won’t have the safety feature of the mag switch though, which comes into play when the power cuts out and keeps the saw from turning on by itself when the power comes back on.

[glenn bradley]

Cary, you can technically use a light switch as long as it’s 220v, right?

That light switch won’t have the safety feature of the mag switch though, which comes into play when the power cuts out and keeps the saw from turning on by itself when the power comes back on.

Disclaimer: I am not an electrician. . . . I think the point here is that a "light switch" is generally single pole. 220 runs two hot leads. I have seen hacks where a switch opens only one hot lead and this does indeed break part of the circuit. The safety concern comes in when one circuit to the motor is still hot.

[Cary Falk]

Disclaimer: I am not an electrician. . . . I think the point here is that a "light switch" is generally single pole. 220 runs two hot leads. I have seen hacks where a switch opens only one hot lead and this does indeed break part of the circuit. The safety concern comes in when one circuit to the motor is still hot.

This was my point.

[Curt Harms]

I bought a 'straight' 1023 in '97 or '98. It came with a crude knock-off of Delta's Jet fence that I soon replaced. Any chance you could attach a pic of your current fence? As far as the switch, you can buy a Grizzly replacement motor starter here:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Magn...-21-25A/T24101

Grizzly does offer a 220 volt paddle switch for cheap but it's rated for 16 amps. I think the G1023 is more than that, maybe 18 amps? Also, the motor starter offers overload protection, the paddle switch does not. I don't think the G1023 motor has overload protection, it relies on the motor starter for that.

[Matt Day]

This is what I meant:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...-2WS/100356941

[Bill Dufour]

You can use a two pole light switch for 240 power. I would first, unplug the saw, remove the switch cover then use a dry wood or plastic stick and physically push the contacts closed by pushing up? on the coil armature. Once you figure out how to do this plug it back in and try pushing the stick again to see if the motor runs.
If it drops out as soon as the stick is removed either the coil is bad or the wiring from the coil is bad.

Most likely is sawdust on the contacts or jamming moving parts. I would unplug again. put a piece of paper bag between contacts, physically close contacts and slowly drag paper through them to clean the surfaces. If that does not do it blow it out with compressed air and try again.
Bill

[Ole Anderson]

Buy a new Grizzly mag starter and you will still be under $100 for the saw. Overload protection as no-start-after-power-out are two features you really need with a TS. A new fence is another issue. I upgraded my right tilt 1998 G1023 to an HTC, which are no longer available.

[Chad Barden]

Here are some photos. I’m going to mess around with the switch later this evening.
https://i.imgur.com/IncWuWh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/oX34t1O.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/lGuSiLX.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Mj6eWqf.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/IayUl6U.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/oKlkFd0.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/x7NecB4.jpg

[Curt Harms]

That fence is a new one on me, never seen one like it. It looks sorta like a Biesmeyer T square variant but not really. If it moves once locked down I'm not sure how to fix it. Someone here with a Bies style fence may have a suggestion. If I were looking for a replacement, there are 2 that would be on my list. One would be this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Delta-Po...30T3/205803795

That seems to be the old standby. Another which I find intriguing is this:

https://vsctools.com/shop/table-saw-fence/

Ignore the silly name, sounds like something from a comic book or something. I find the ability to use different fence extrusions intriguing, a little like the Delta Unifence or a Euro style fence. If ripping wood that may spread once cut it's nice if the cut part past the blade doesn't spread and push against the blade and cause a kickback. That's why Euro fences end just past the blade. It can also be useful to have a low fence or slide the fence back to use it as a stop for repeat cuts with a miter gauge, all seem easy to accomplish with this fence. it looks like you could use about any 80/20 extrusion shape with the correctly positioned slots.

[eugene thomas]

I had 1994 version 1023. Fence was crap. Hard to keep aligned. Friend gave me bismeyer fence. No more fence headaches.

[David Helm]

My 2010 1023 came with the Shop Fox knock off of the Bies. It works beautifully.