Best way to cut space for a faceplate?

[Jon Kurtz]

<p>
I have a natural edge sidegrain piece of Walnut that I need to mount. The top (bark section) is domed, What is the best technique for flatening out the center in order to mount a faceplate? I want to keep a natural edge with bark around the edge.&nbsp; I have tried using a chisel, but I cannot get it flat enough to make the face plate lay flat. Any suggestions? Thanks!</p>

[daryl moses]

I always start turning natural edge bowls between centers using a spur drive. [I use a forstner bit to cut through the bark] I shape the outside then turn a tennon so I can mount it on one of my chucks.

[Fred Belknap]

I find the center of the blank and drill a hold through the bark and into the solid wood then connect to a chuck with a pin jaws in expansion mode. It is just a step up from spur centersl. Spur center will work if the blank isn't to heavy.

[David M Peters]

I'd agree with Daryl & Fred that securing the blank from the bark side is the way to go. But if you can't mar the bark in this case, could you hand-saw a flat for your faceplate? Also, I've used my bandsaw for similar operations with the blank held securely on a log sled.

[Brice Rogers]

Sometimes I'll use a forstner bit to drill a pocket for the spur center. The pocket is the same diameter as my spur center and helps to ensure that the thing won't come flying off the lathe. I also drill a pocket for the live center for the same reason.

I've also used a large Forstner (like 2-1/8" or something) and drill a series of holes on a drill press. I drill one hole and then move over and drill the next until I've flattened an area onto which to mount a faceplate. I set the drill stop so all holes are on the same plane. This works well and provides a flat area for mounting.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I also start between centers. I use a spade bit to make sure my spur is into solid wood though. Faster and cheaper than a nice forstner.
The benefits of between centers? You can move the other end about to align the "wings" of the blank so your NE bowl will be balanced. You could then turn a flat for your faceplate, but I usually don't use one.

[Paul Williams]

My process is similar to Brice. I start with a 2 1/8 forstner bit and drill deep enough so that the jaws in expansion mode will be in solid wood. Then I drill a series of holes around the first hole to provide clearance for the chuck body. I do this on the drill press.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

I’m not sure which side you want to be the top or bottom, but if you like to keep the bark side to be the top, then you could screw the faceplate to the bottom and turn a recess in the bark side to hold on your chuck.

The screws do not have to go deep if the wood is solid, maybe ⅜ to ½ inch deep in the wood, and if you make the bottom of the bowl convex you can place the screws so that they fall in the wood you will remove.

Having the piece in the chuck after turning a recess, you can shape the outside/bottom of the piece and make a shallow recess, when finished with that side,flip the piece over and hollow the top side to your liking.

[Gary Baler]

I drill a hole for the drive spur and turn between centers like Kyle. I used to use a Forstner bit the size of a face plate, but it created problems from time to time and I don't think you can get much more solid than between centers when done right. Then turn a tenon on the bottom and shape the outside. Being able to adjust the bottom to get the wings of the bowl to fit evenly is a must and I know of no better ... or safer way.

[robert baccus]

If the piece is less than 12" say you can screw a small strong faceplate straight on the bark side. Use heavy deck screws long enough to reach sound wood on the far side and shorter screws near the faceplate center. You won't break a decent faceplate and the screws hold fine if long and strong. I only use square-X epoxy coated #10 deck screws for this kind of work or any work on a faceplate.

[Dennis Ford]

Putting it between centers is a good way to flatten a spot for a face-plate. A hand plane or chisel also works, might need to sharpen your chisel.

[Barry McFadden]

I have a 3" faceplate so I use a 3" Forstner bit to drill a shallow hole and the faceplate fits right into it.

[Jon Kurtz]

I really appreciate everyone’s advice.

[Jeffrey J Smith]

One thing to consider is that its often difficult to determine exactly where the faceplate needs to be to keep the grain balanced in the final piece. Starting between centers allows you to adjust the centers until you're happy with the overall direction of the grain and the balance. Once everythings setup the way you want it you can either turn a flat spot through the bark to mount a plate, turn a tenon or recess to chuck it up, or just leave it between centers to turn the outside form. You've got options.
A two-prong spur drive will drive the biggest blank I can mount (25") without trouble while turning the blank by hand to locate the best centers and get everything where you want it. If it results in the blank being really off-balance, I'll switch to the oneway Big Bite spur before powering up and getting it round.

[Reed Gray]

Well, depending on how good you are on cutting out the blank for grain orientation, I use a forstner bit slightly bigger than the face plate (3 inch), or the drill press and a smaller forstner bit with the depth stop and you can fairly easily drill out a flat spot. Easiest way to do it. If you are a real stickler for grain lining up perfectly in the center of the bowl, and don't have good chain saw skills, then you may need the spur drive, and remove some bark so you can change orientation.

robo hippy