What type of Primer and Paint for MDF High Gloss cabinet doors?

[John Beonme]

Hi Everyone,


I'm almost at the process of finishing my cabinet doors and wanted to know what products are needed to achieve a high gloss finish like you find in painted modern furniture. I'm aware that I have to make sure the MDF edges are sealed, but not sure what product would be good for this. I've read that I need to stay away from waterborne products since they may cause the MDF to swell. I am planning on spraying this with the 4-stage Fuji HVLP. These cabinets will be in the garage, so I would like to use something very durable. Is pre-cat lacquer the way to go?

My questions:
What type of primer?
What type of paint?
Any recommended brands?
Tips?

[Leo Graywacz]

I use ML Campbell products. Clawlock is their Post Cat product. For durability I'd use a post cat conversion varnish over the primer.

[Jim Becker]

I'll leave the product recommendations to others, but need to point out that if you choose to spray solvent-based products, there are safety issues unless you have a proper spraying environment. Please be sure to factor that into your decision on how you finish your cabinets.

[John TenEyck]

The low tech approach is to use BIN shellac based white pigmented primer, which can be tinted close to your paint color. Then topcoat it with BM Advance, which is a WB alkyd. I did this MDF vanity top using those products.



This was satin, but it's available in gloss, too. It takes quite awhile to dry and even longer to cure, but it sprays beautifully and is very durable after it finally does cure. FYI, I didn't fill the edges of the MDF other than spray the BIN extra heavy on the edges and sand them back after the first coat. Then I sprayed a second coat of BIN, sanded again, then 2 coats of Advance.

John

[John Beonme]

I have a couple gallons of bin shellac left over from another project. As for BM Advanced, I have sprayed it a bunch of times and do not want to use it due to the long drying and recoating time.

[John Beonme]

Jim,
What are some of the safety requirements for lacquer? I have only sprayed BM advance, which I did outdoors and always used a respirator.

[Wayne Lomman]

2 pack polyurethane is the best for high gloss and durability. Get it from a reputable distributor or an auto paint supplier. Buy a primer and top coat from the same manufacturer. The recommended primer will fill the edges of the mdf. Gloss will be improved the finer you sand.

If you paint outside, use the appropriate respirator and make sure the wind is blowing the overspray away from anything that matters. If you spray inside, you need an explosion proof ventilation fan as a minimum.

If you want to go pre-cat lacquer, apply a coat of single pack polyurethane wood filler by hand before lacquering. If you don't, it will stay sticky as the lacquer reacts with the mdf resins. Cheers

[Jim Becker]

Jim,
What are some of the safety requirements for lacquer? I have only sprayed BM advance, which I did outdoors and always used a respirator.

Outdoors helps you out a lot with solvent-based products since it means you more or less only need "personal" protection, including a quality respirator as well as eye and ear protection. You may want to pay attention to wind direction, too, since the fumes can be very annoying to others and as Wayne mentions, overspray considerations.

[John Beonme]

What are the benefits of post cat vs pre cat outside of shelf life?

[Leo Graywacz]

Durability. Generally sands better between coats. Cures quicker, 85% in 24 hrs. usually has higher solids content (35%+ vs 25%)

[John Beonme]

Sounds like Ill be going with post cat. Whats a good primer to use with that? Is zinnser BIN shellac good or is there something better with high build?

[Wayne Lomman]

John, if you are going with post catalysed product, pick the one you want to use and then go with the compatible primer. There will be one. Any other type will be unreliable. Cheers

[Jim Becker]

Yea, when it comes to solvent-based lacquers, it's best/imperative to use the associated primer/sealer with the brand/formula you choose.

[John Beonme]

Makes sense.

I just looked for an ML Campbell retailer and the nearest one to me is 25 miles away. That's an hour drive here in Los Angeles. If it was for my kitchen or anywhere inside the house I would make that trek, but not for the garage cabinets. Based on convenience I have a Sherwin-Williams and Dunn Edwards near me. From those two, which would be the better option? Also which product line should I go with?

[Jared Sankovich]

Makes sense.

I just looked for an ML Campbell retailer and the nearest one to me is 25 miles away. That's an hour drive here in Los Angeles. If it was for my kitchen or anywhere inside the house I would make that trek, but not for the garage cabinets. Based on convenience I have a Sherwin-Williams and Dunn Edwards near me. From those two, which would be the better option? Also which product line should I go with?

I don't think you can get anything other than waterborne in California due to VOC regulations