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Thread: Carbide Bandsaw Blades

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    West Boylston Massachusetts
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    647

    Carbide Bandsaw Blades

    Hello, I went to a friends shop and cut up some material (thick oak burl) and was blown away by the way it went right thru the 6 to10 inch material. It also delivered a beautiful cut surface. No drift or burning, just a no nonsense quality cut. Now I will be getting a carbide tipped bandsaw blade. He bought the saw used and the blade came with it. I am looking to get one for my 18 inch jet bandsaw and am looking for suggestions on brand names, tooth count and blade width.
    Thanks in advance, Kevin

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Griswold Connecticut
    Posts
    6,927
    Kevin

    1st question is what are looking to do with it?
    I have a 1", Lennox 2/3 vari-pitch TriMaster blade on my 18" Rikon. The saw and blade are specifically setup for re-sawing on this saw. The quality and consistency of the cut is very, very, good. I don't think you can go wrong with Lennox
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Lubbock Texas
    Posts
    931
    I use "Supercut" carbide impregnated blades to re-saw 8" cedar, walnut and maple. These blades do not last forever but much better than any, steel only, blades I have tried. I use a 1/2" 3 TPI blade for my 14" saw and the cost is under $29 the last time I bought some.
    No PHD, but I have a DD 214

  4. #4
    I have the Laguna Resaw King blade on my 18” saw.
    Cuts like budda

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    12,298
    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Bridge View Post
    I have the Laguna Resaw King blade on my 18” saw.
    Cuts like budda
    Thick green wood or dry wood?

    JKJ

  6. #6
    A carbide band is over 300 bucks for my large saws. I cut a lot of curved parts and carbide won't work for that.

    Bimetals are nice for when I cut lots of tropical wood.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,648
    Lennox Woodmaster CT 1" x 1.3 tpi on my 17" Grizzly. It cuts exceptionally smooth; perhaps not quite as smoothly as the Trimaster, but a whole bunch faster. It was about $150 for a 162" blade which is pretty cheap for what it does and how long it will do it.

    John

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    In the foothills of the Sandia Mountains
    Posts
    16,622
    1” Lenox tri-master 3 tpi. It’s the only carbide bandsaw blade I have used but it cuts just like your friends.
    Please help support the Creek.


    "It's paradoxical that the idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn't appeal to anyone."
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    So Cal
    Posts
    3,739
    Looks like Lennox is offering a low priced Resaw blade. The Woodmaster Gt I might get one i like have a good carbon steel blade esp one that can be resharpened without a heavy burr left behind. I haven't been happy with any of the bimetal blades after they are back from sharpening service.
    Aj

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,469
    I have a Hammer N4400, which is a 17 1/2" wheel. For resawing I use a 1" Lenox Woodmaster CT. The finished cut is not as smooth as a Trimaster, but it does cut quickly. What I would emphasise is that these are thick and stiff blades. They require an awful lot of tensioning. When I replace the existing blade, I plan to do so with a 3/4" - I believe that will still cut as straight, but it will require less tension, and this will improve the quality of the cut. Bottom line: ensure your bandsaw can manage the tensioning needed for a carbide blade. The Resaw King is a thinner blade and requires less tension than the Lenox blades.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  11. #11
    I have the Lennox vari-pitch TriMaster 1 inch on my 19 inch Grizzly and yes it cuts great. When it finally wears out I'm thinking I'm just going back to 3/4 standard resaw blade. Not worth the money to me plus changing that >$300 blade is nerve racking and a pain in the batookie because you're so nervous about breaking teeth. A well set-up/adjusted saw will re-saw just fine to me without all that expense. Either one of the results off them have to make a trip to the drum sander either way so I'm not convinced it's worth the expense.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    North Virginia
    Posts
    341
    I love the performance of the Lennox TriMaster carbide blades as well. However, I have broken the last two I owned (at over $100 apiece) after only a couple of months' service. I'm going back to trimetal blades.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Southwestern CT
    Posts
    1,392
    I have been using the Lennox 16’ 9” x 1” x .035” x 1.3 tpi woodmaster ct on my 28" Centauro. It works very well. I usually buy the next blade when I mount a new one, and they last about a year for me. As others have mentioned, the cut left, often (typically?) requires clean up ... but I have been successful using it for veneers with a touchup on the wide belt sander.
    "the mechanic that would perfect his work must first sharpen his tools.” Confucius

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    weaverville, ca
    Posts
    348
    have settled on using a 1" resaw king - cuts great - and can be sharpened at least 2 times - i think it costs $40. a few years ago a new one snapped and laguna repaired it with no charge.
    using it on a mm16
    jerry
    jerry

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,469
    Jerry's post reminded me to comment on sharpening. I sharpen my bandsaw blades with a diamond disk in a Dremel - just stroke the back of the blade. I do not touch the face or the gullet.

    The Lenox carbide blades are not meant to be sharpened, or at best the factory can do them once. The Resaw King is said to be able to be sharpened 5 times, and also only by the factory.

    So far I have sharpened my Lenox Woodmaster twice. I did this before reading that they cannot be sharpened! Of course, I though I had stuffed up the blade, although it was still sawing. Perhaps all I had left was just the carbon steel, and the "tiny" carbide tips were history. So I had a close look at the teeth, and took a photo ...



    The carbide tips look good for a few more sharpenings.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

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