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Thread: Carbide Bandsaw Blades

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    West Boylston Massachusetts
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    450

    Carbide Bandsaw Blades

    Hello, I went to a friends shop and cut up some material (thick oak burl) and was blown away by the way it went right thru the 6 to10 inch material. It also delivered a beautiful cut surface. No drift or burning, just a no nonsense quality cut. Now I will be getting a carbide tipped bandsaw blade. He bought the saw used and the blade came with it. I am looking to get one for my 18 inch jet bandsaw and am looking for suggestions on brand names, tooth count and blade width.
    Thanks in advance, Kevin

  2. #2
    Actually a non carbide blade would be better if you will be cutting wet wood. I have a Lennox carbide blade on my MiniMax bandsaw for resawing dry wood, but Lennox says not to use it on wet wood because tannic acid and other extractives will erode the brazed bond on the carbide tips. Oak has more tannic acid than any other North American hardwood. I had the same thought that you did, but I don't want to ruin a $200 blade so I just use regular 3 TPI blades for cutting green wood.
    Last edited by Bill Boehme; 11-14-2017 at 6:08 PM.
    Bill

  3. #3
    Kevin, like Bill, I use 3 tpi blades for all round use and saw stock as much as 8-10” without difficulty and with reasonably smooth cuts. At about $13 per blade, I would find it difficult to justify a carbide blade. Different story, however, for the miter saw and tablesaw.

    IMO, the primary key to a clean cut is to have the bandsaw properly tuned.
    Last edited by John Keeton; 11-14-2017 at 7:18 PM.

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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Lakewood, CO
    Posts
    594
    My local blade guy can make me a 1/2", .035 kerf, 3tpi carbide tipped blade for $100. I'm thinking about it. My normal blades are around $20 for a 178".

  5. #5
    There is a specialty band saw blade place in town that makes blades for all the mills and the hobby people as well. Their comment: Carbide blades are for cutting fine veneers. For resawing most other woods, bimetal blades, and I use the Lennox diemaster bimetal blades. A 1/2 by 3 tpi for my little saw that rounds out blanks, and teeth at about 3/4 inch apart by 1 1/4 inch wide for sawing blanks for my big saw, what most of the portable bandsaw owners use. The bimetal will cut straighter and a lot longer than any other blade out there. If you hit a nail, it may slow it down a bit, but it is not ruined. Small saw blades, 96 inch long are about $28, and the big blades at 150 inch are about $70. They can be resharpened many times. Yes, I wasted one carbide blade just to find it out after they told me. It didn't cut any longer, straighter or easier than the bimetal blades. Some carbide tipped blades can be resharpened. I know Laguna has one blade that has a hardened tip which is not carbide, but can be resharpened. The Lennox can not be resharpened. Hitachi used to have stellite tipped blades which could be resharpened. Proper set to the teeth, and a sharp blade make all the difference in the world.

    robo hippy

  6. #6
    My carbide blade is ten years old and still sharp .... well, I need to clarify that a bit. I used it once and found that it didn't cut any better than the quality bimetal blades. Because it was so expensive, I rolled it up and it is still hanging on the peg waiting for the "right opportunity". In the unlikely event that I ever decide that I need to resaw some fine veneers maybe that will be the "right opportunity".
    Bill

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    springfield mo
    Posts
    224
    Blog Entries
    1
    Bill , Dats funny mine has been on a shelf by the saw for 6 or 7 years . Didn't want to hit a nail with it as all i saw is city wood .

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