Double-lock drawer face joint

[Steve Lansing]

Does anyone know another name or history of this joint?

[Bill Adamsen]

Interesting joint. Never seen it and don't know the name ... double-lock sounds reasonable. Can't think of a way to cut either male or female in one pass on a single head machine (shaper). The male could be done in one pass on a multi-head tenoner. Similar in function to a french dovetail but allows the drawer side to be closer to the blind edge. The drawer bottom slot is automatically hidden from all angles like on a half blind dt. Looks like a lot of work to setup as a multiple pass tablesaw joint and it would be hard to replicate if you had to "re-setup" (each joint registers in two directions) even with multiple blades/knives of different depth of cut on a single arbor (different diameter).

[Jim Becker]

Very interesting joinery...and likely reasonably strong, too. Given the profile, it must be a sliding joint that is then captured by the bottom board slid in from the back. I'm guessing the joinery at the back of the drawer is something simpler for that reason.

[Steve Lansing]

Thanks guys - exactly what I was thinking.

[Steve Lansing]

I found the time to cut some small drawer joints and once set up it seems that I can get a nice snug fit with good repeatability.

[Dave Zellers]

That is awesome. You have done exactly what I was thinking- the tongues are too wide in the original example.

I totally love it. I have always done the traditional drawer joint this way, with the tongue from the drawer face about 1/8" wide. There is no need for anything more than that.

I have to try this! Thank you!

[andy bessette]

...the tongues are too wide in the original example...

Just what I was thinking.

DZ--good work.

[Rick Alexander]

very cool - I'd love to see how you set it up with what bit. Do you have to change the setup for the fronts/sides?

[Jim Becker]

I found the time to cut some small drawer joints and once set up it seems that I can get a nice snug fit with good repeatability.

Thanks for testing this out! It really can be a nice strong joint for certain types of boxes and drawers as you illustrate. And thanks for the contrasting wood species to show the joint here on the forum!!

[Jim Becker]

very cool - I'd love to see how you set it up with what bit. Do you have to change the setup for the fronts/sides?

Pretty much all table saw with a sled for safety when the workpiece is vertical in my mind...it's mostly a matter of careful blade height setting and running all workpieces through each step for consistency before changing the setup.

[Steve Lansing]

Yes Jim, you are correct - all table saw with a sled.

[Al Launier]

One cut with TS sled & one cut with TS & tenon jig?

[Don Kondra]

My version of this joint. I discovered it in roughly 1980 when searching the Public Library for inspiration on building an antique sideboard. Don't think it had a "name" ?

I may have changed the dimensions to suit a new to me then table saw blade that cuts 1/8" wide with a flat bottom.

Cuts made with the mitre gauge with the face lined with sandpaper, upright cuts with a very basic back support.

Material is 3/4" sides, 7/8" front to allow for raised panel look. M & T's are 1/4" wide except for the end tenon @ 1/8".

Make one cut, place 1/8" spacer on the fence, make another cut. I definitely remember making a number of test cuts

The back joint is just a sliding dovetail with the width narrow enough to slide in a solid bottom to secure the front joint.

No glue and still going strong !

Drawer lock joint.jpg

Highlighted for clarity...

Drawer lock joint highlighted.jpg

Cheers, Don

[Steve Lansing]

<p>
No glue and still going strong, thats great!</p>

[Steve Lansing]

One cut with TS sled & one cut with TS & tenon jig?

I don't have a tenon jig, just used a machinists angle plate on the sled (of course when the part is vertical)