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Thread: The right blade for the job?

  1. #1

    The right blade for the job?

    Hi all. I'm remodeling my new house, and one thing I'm doing is cutting down the "ledge" on the peninsula in the kitchen. I want to cut it down to countertop height then install a larger countertop to open the kitchen up to the living room better. Doing some exploration I've found that under the sheet rock on one side there is that mild steel strapping on the studs to (I assume) protect the drain pipe from getting nailed or screwed into. My plan was to attach my track saw and cut just to the stud and no more on that side of the wall. Since there is the that metal strapping, I decided to use this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1. My question is whether this blade is also ok to do the main task of cutting the drywall?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Wenatchee. Wa
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    769
    Any blade will cut sheetrock. and if the saw is held or guided so that it is unable to rock or twist your cut will be clean enough.

  3. #3
    Good to hear, thank you!

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Be prepared for a huge cloud of dust. Please wear a mask and goggles.

  5. #5
    I always wear PPE. I'm hoping this new Festool TS55 will help the situation.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Three Rivers, Central Oregon
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    2,340
    I'd cut back that sheetrock with a utility knife to avoid the dust storm your circular saw will generate.
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  7. #7
    For already finished walls? Score it and will break clean there?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Three Rivers, Central Oregon
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    You can't score and snap drywall that's attached to a backing. You'll have to cut it through with a utility knife. How long is the cut line?

    Without pictures it's difficult to envision exactly what you're doing.
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Brandon Thill View Post
    Hi all. I'm remodeling my new house, and one thing I'm doing is cutting down the "ledge" on the peninsula in the kitchen. I want to cut it down to countertop height then install a larger countertop to open the kitchen up to the living room better. Doing some exploration I've found that under the sheet rock on one side there is that mild steel strapping on the studs to (I assume) protect the drain pipe from getting nailed or screwed into.
    It sounds like what you have is a vent pipe in the ledge wall where you want to cut the ledge down. Maybe some exploratory surgery is in order. I've found an oscillating tool priceless when it comes to cutting drywall that's already been hung. A blade like this is perfect for the job you're doing:
    “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Napa Valley, CA
    Posts
    916
    Listen to Scott and Julie. Cutting drywall with a circular saw will create a huge dust storm. Several passes with a utility knife will get you there---but if you have an oscillating multi-tool, that is the tool I would reach for.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Gatineau, Québec
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    As indicated by Julie: I've found an oscillating tool priceless when it comes to cutting drywall that's already been hung. A blade like this is perfect for the job you're doing:


    Bingo!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Upland, CA
    Posts
    1,344
    The OP didn’t make it clear in the original post but the size of the blade gave it away. He later said ts55 and cleared it up. You not only won’t have a cloud of dust, you will have far less than you would with a multi tool. Just use a vac that won’t let any drywall thru the filter and make sure to not remove any drywall until you are done cutting. In other words, make sure the inside of the wall stays mostly closed while you are cutting and you will have no dust at all. You will make more dust breaking the drywall off the nails to remove it.
    Use a steel cutting blade as any rotating object will cut drywall, even one with no teeth at all.
    Last edited by Greg R Bradley; 11-24-2017 at 5:37 PM.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    6,983
    +3 to the above answers.
    You don't want to use a circular saw on drywall.

    Even the MF tools generate an avalanche of dust.

    Scoring installed drywall seldom works out well since in order for the score to work, it need to be on the side that's fastened to the wall.
    If you score the face, it does little to help it snap off clean.
    I prefer to use either a MF tool (like the <$20 Harbor Freight or Fein) for srtaight lines &/or a Roto Zip for curves.
    My granddad always said, :As one door closes, another opens".
    Wonderful man, terrible cabinet maker...

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    New Brunswick, Canada
    Posts
    324
    Whoa Brandon! I'd give this a little more thought first Why don't you take the darn thing down and reframe it to the correct height. It's only a few studs and drywall. Best to see what is behind all of this. Perhaps the plumbing and electrical needs an update anyway. The first plan is a recipe for disaster. Trust me.

  15. #15
    I've already looked inside and know what I need to do: just some wiring that will be moved or terminated. Tearing it all down and rebuilding seems like 10x the work and time for?

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