Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 33

Thread: Small one car garage shop layout

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    1,950
    If you can live with a 13" planer, you could use a DW735 planer and hinge it onto the end of your outfeed table/bench. That would save you some floor space and would probably not impede your workflow too much. Also, you could then move the table saw to the wall where the planer is currently sitting. That opens up center floor space.

    I would also also make your extra work bench the same height as the table saw and then move it so where the dust collector is sitting and the dust collector by the door. This way the extra table doubles as sheet good outfeed.

    Lastly I would leave the drill press in place and move the band saw to behind the jointer. Off set the jointer to one side and the band saw to the other and just behind. Hard to explain but it would layer them so the jointer travels lower and just in front of the bandsaw. Also it opens up space for larger items on the bandsaw. Saw blade access still maintained if you keep it to the left of the jointer. And this opens the space behind the table saw for sheet goods.

    Set the table saw at the 10' or 11' point so you can fit an 8' sheet on the saw with you squeezed behind. Then you also have outfeed space for it.

    Just thoughts from working with similar space once you take away footage covered by tool boxes around 3 walls in my 20x22 space. Mine is maybe 5' wider but still a tight space.
    Last edited by Greg Parrish; 11-28-2017 at 2:44 PM.

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Parrish View Post
    If you can live with a 13" planer, you could use a DW735 planer and hinge it onto the end of your outfeed table/bench. That would save you some floor space and would probably not impede your workflow too much. Also, you could then move the table saw to the wall where the planer is currently sitting. That opens up center floor space.

    I would also also make your extra work bench the same height as the table saw and then move it so where the dust collector is sitting and the dust collector by the door. This way the extra table doubles as sheet good outfeed.

    Lastly I would leave the drill press in place and move the band saw to behind the jointer. Off set the jointer to one side and the band saw to the other and just behind. Hard to explain but it would layer them so the jointer travels lower and just in front of the bandsaw. Also it opens up space for larger items on the bandsaw. Saw blade access still maintained if you keep it to the left of the jointer. And this opens the space behind the table saw for sheet goods.

    Set the table saw at the 10' or 11' point so you can fit an 8' sheet on the saw with you squeezed behind. Then you also have outfeed space for it.

    Just thoughts from working with similar space once you take away footage covered by tool boxes around 3 walls in my 20x22 space. Mine is maybe 5' wider but still a tight space.
    Great feedback. I'm hoping to break down my sheet goods using a tracksaw on the bench whenever possible to avoid having to hoist a full 8x4 sheet on my table saw. Also of note is that the latest shop design is that latest image posted where I replace a cabinet saw with a Paulk Compact Workbench mounted contractor saw which uses the bench as an outfeed and can be removed. The goal is to do as much as I can with the tracksaw, a precision cut bench top with 20mm dog holes. My primary use for the tablesaw will be for ripping and using the dado stack.

  3. #18
    Yet another layout this time placing the bench against the western wall which happens to have a window right in the center for natural light. The planer moves to the eastern wall and would be the primary "swing" machine as it would have to be moved to the center of the shop to plane long boards. This layout opens up the center of the shop. So many options. Making furniture is pretty easy compared to deciding on a layout. :-)

    Screen Shot 2017-11-28 at 3.17.45 PM.png

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Lancaster, PA
    Posts
    75
    Quote Originally Posted by Ray Rodriguez View Post
    Yet another layout this time placing the bench against the western wall which happens to have a window right in the center for natural light. The planer moves to the eastern wall and would be the primary "swing" machine as it would have to be moved to the center of the shop to plane long boards. This layout opens up the center of the shop. So many options. Making furniture is pretty easy compared to deciding on a layout. :-)

    Screen Shot 2017-11-28 at 3.17.45 PM.png
    As long as your planer is on casters I think this would be your ideal setup. I would consider putting the bandsaw on casters too just in case you needed to rip a long piece of board on your table saw.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,675
    Quote Originally Posted by Ray Rodriguez View Post
    but ultimately I felt I was going to compromise on the quality of both machines and was hesitant to have to constantly have to change between jointer and planer configurations.
    Unless you're buying a lower-end, mass market J/P, you wouldn't be compromising quality...just the opposite in many cases, unless you're buying really high end separates as an alternative. As to change-overs...it really isn't an issue as has been discussed many times in the General Woodworking and Power Tools forum over the years. It typically takes a minute at the most and most folks learn new, more efficient working habits that reduce the need to actually change over with any frequency. Both of these potential issues are more "myth" than reality. I wouldn't give up my J/P for separates unless I somehow won the lottery and could buy really big, high-end separates and a building to put them in. LOL That said, this certainly is a personal preference decision and if you feel more comfortable with separate tools, that's a great choice!

    BTW, on your latest diagram you show your planer at an angle. That can be "interesting" if your garage has a typical sloped floor... I have to deal with said floor in my shop which was originally a 3.5 car garage built by the previous property owners. I have to keep all my tools either with the slope or perpendicular to the slope (and block for level). Angles didn't work well at all...
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 11-28-2017 at 7:58 PM.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Unless you're buying a lower-end, mass market J/P, you wouldn't be compromising quality...just the opposite in many cases, unless you're buying really high end separates as an alternative. As to change-overs...it really isn't an issue as has been discussed many times in the General Woodworking and Power Tools forum over the years. It typically takes a minute at the most and most folks learn new, more efficient working habits that reduce the need to actually change over with any frequency. Both of these potential issues are more "myth" than reality. I wouldn't give up my J/P for separates unless I somehow won the lottery and could buy really big, high-end separates and a building to put them in. LOL That said, this certainly is a personal preference decision and if you feel more comfortable with separate tools, that's a great choice!

    BTW, on your latest diagram you show your planer at an angle. That can be "interesting" if your garage has a typical sloped floor... I have to deal with said floor in my shop which was originally a 3.5 car garage built by the previous property owners. I have to keep all my tools either with the slope or perpendicular to the slope (and block for level). Angles didn't work well at all...
    Ha funny you posted this now as I just spent the evening researching J/P combos and I'm pretty sold on the grizzly G0634XP. Watched a video on it and read a few reviews and it looks like the only compromise is on a slightly narrower planer bed (12" is fine for what I'm doing) and not so great performance on the dust collection which I can live with. On the other end to be able to joint 12" boards is pretty dreamy for me so I'm going to sleep on it but I think in the morning I'm going to cancel my order for the jointer and planer I have and put in an order for the 0634. The kicker is that it's in stock at my nearest warehouse so should have it within a week or two. This should give me a bit more room to work with now.

    I'm also thinking of doing a modified Paulk Compact Workbench with a cabinet base on lockable casters instead of the traditional sawhorse leg design. I figure the bottom cabinet can give me a ton of storage for my systainers.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,675
    Face jointing wide boards is my favorite thing about my J/P. You will get used to it relatively quickly and like I mentioned before, it can help encourage more careful planning which is always a good thing when it comes to project quality. Congrats!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #23
    Still trying to optimize the space. My latest layout moves the drill press to the southern wall next to the dust collection and completely opens up the eastern wall for the jointer/planer and for lumber storage. The band saw can be rolled over to the center of the garage door in order to resaw longer boards and then rolled back to a corner for smaller work. My primary workbenches are a full-sized paulk workbench doubling as an outfeed table and a heavier roubo style workbench on the southern wall for hand tool work, as a platform for some bench top sanders and as a sharpening station. This layout leaves the center of the workshop open for easier movement.

    Screen Shot 2017-11-29 at 8.52.11 PM.png

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    1,950
    I like it. This layout looks very workable.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,675
    Make sure you understand what space is required "behind" the J/P you ordered to accomodate the fence when it's pushed back for maximum width during face jointing. Mobility kids tend to be geared toward moving the machines in the direction parallel to the tables, not to/from the wall. This will affect where you actually position the machine relative to the wall and what the space will be in front of it toward the next workstation over...in the case of your latest design, the saw/assembly area. Scavenge some large pieces of cardboard, make footprint cutouts of your machines and use the space (or an equivalent space) to play with your design "full size" if you can.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  11. #26
    Yeah totally. I’m in the process of laying out the tools and tables as boxes of max (WxDxH) in the garage in SketchUp to further get a feel for the space. I’ll definitely try to do the same with cardboard. I’ve already backed off to the compact Paulk bench size 3x6 due to how crowded the full sized bench made the space feel in SketchUp.

  12. #27
    Looks like the J/P I’m targeting has an end mounted fence designed to keep the machine as close to the wall as possible. Total depth is 24” with fence adjusted for max jointer width. I may have to nudge the J/P another inch or two away from wall to account for the jointer table swinging up and over for planer use.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,675
    Yes, an end-mounted fence will be helpful for sure in a small space. Once the machine arrives and you have it uncrated, you can check the exact distance needed to allow for full turnover relative to the wall. My MiniMax J/P has a center mount fence and a long post that goes out a considerable distance when the fence is set toward the wall for the widest jointing surface. I actually used a hole saw in the wall to give myself another 2". (shop building is concrete block so the available distance is the thickness of the wall surface plus the depth of the furring)
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Southwestern CT
    Posts
    1,392
    It's a great sized shop for hand tools. Fortunately hand tools today, between traditional cutting tools (planes and chisels) and tools for knocking down sheet goods (tracksaw) are probably all you need to work with a wide range of materials. Find a way to creatively store/display the hand tools and save the space for work and assembly. For instance I don't see a workbench (MFD?) in there and that would be the first thing I'd get. I'd put it in the middle so I could walk around it accessing it from any angle. But that bench will take up a significant part of the shop space.

    Alternatively, put everything on wheels and make it so you can wheel them outside to do work, and then roll back in for storage.
    "the mechanic that would perfect his work must first sharpen his tools.” Confucius

  15. #30
    Just wanted to give an update on the progress. Don't have any photos to post yet of the entire space but I did just finish doing an accent wall on the wall opposite the garage door. Figured it would help add some color to the space. All inside construction is pretty much done at this point while I wait for the electrician to do his thing. We decided on splitting out the 200A service coming into the house into 100 for house and 100 for shop with a dedicated sub-panel. I put together some diagrams for him to place the 120v/240v outlets and we decided on using 4 2x2 LED panels for lighting. Should get me close to the recommended 15k-22k lumens for a shop this size.

    So in the next couple of weeks I should have proper power and the new insulated garage door in place so I can begin all final interior finishing and start on the dust collector ductwork. Super exciting!

    shop-wall.jpg

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •