Miter box recommendation?

[Mike Allen1010]

I’m interested in getting a vintage miter box I could use with a Disston miter saw with 23” long x 4” deep saw plate. I have the impression that miter box were made in different sizes and I guess I’m looking for something more on the larger end of the scale.

I would very much appreciate any advice or recommendations about what I should look for in a miter box and/or specific brands/models that might work best for my needs:

Beyond individual brand/manufacturers, I’m confused about the different model numbers etc. It seems like there might be a couple different ways the saw are connected to the miter box, rollers, clamps?

I think I’ve also heard the idea there are several key parts or components that you need to make sure are part of the miter box you buy because they’re critical and/or difficult to replace – again not sure about that either?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Best, Mike

[steven c newman]

My smaller mitre box is a Stanley No. 2246A......Takes a 4" x 26" saw......I have been using a 24" saw with it.

My LARGE mitre box is a Millers Falls Langdon 75.......it takes a 5" x 30" saw.....I have been using a 5 x 28" saw in it. Because the two longer saws need sharpened.


Stanley would call a box as a #246......Frame #2, Saw is a 4" by 26"

I also had a 358 mitre box....again, that would be a #3 frame, using that 5" x 28" saw.

Millers Falls was about the same way.
Ok...
IMG_2510 (640x480) (2).jpg
This is my Stanley #2246A. There are stock holder rods that can hold a board in place while you saw. The "Guides" where the saw slides through, they have a few metal "stops". Some to set the depth of a cut. And one to hold the saw up, while you move a board into place. Mine is missing one. These also came with a metal piece to set the length. There is a thumbscrew to hold it in place. Installed in front of the fence, you can use it as a stop block for repeat cuts.
DSCF0003.JPG
Not critical, but seems to help out.
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These are depth stops. One will set the depth so the saw doesn't cut into the deck.
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When you raise the saw up to install the next board, this keeper engages to hold the saw up, out of the way.

with saw.jpg
This is from an older Stanley Mitre Box...a #358. Different guides, there is a bar across the top to connect the two sets of guides. This uses a different set of stops. Usually the bar is MIA. Stock holders are also MIA most of the time. Watch out for broken feet on these boxes. These came with a system of rods to act as stop blocks...usually not there. These boxes usually have two places for the front guides to sit, depending on the length of the saw used.

[Phil Mueller]

Hi Mike,
Check out badaxetoolworks site...they have a brochure on the langdon/millers falls miter boxes that provides the saw size/model #. I’m no expert, but I think you can get away with using your saw on a number of miter boxes, even though that might not be what the miter box originally came with.

I’ve only owned one Stanley and a couple of Millers Falls. I prefer the Millers Falls. On either the Stanley or the Langdon/Millers Falls, you want all the parts that are part of the saw guide posts...the depth guides/saw stops and side roller bearings (Stanley), elevators (Millers Falls), etc.

The parts that keep the saw held up off the work (Millers Falls calls them elevators) make it convenient, but not critical to it’s function....just a bit of a pain if they are missing.

The posts/rods that hold the work against the back, and the side length guides aren’t critical...in fact, I rarely use them.

If you’re interested, I have a Millers Falls looking for a new home. As usual, it’s missing the work hold pieces, but I think the rest is all there. Might be missing one elevator, I’d have to check...pm me if interested...maybe you’ve got a saw looking for a new home?

[steven c newman]

Langdon #75....
swing it.jpg
Guides on these make of boxes will only take a 5" saw......there is a space for the teeth to slide through the guides. A 4" saw will not fit through.
saw.jpg
As for length....as long as you can make a cut....saw in the picture is a 5" x 30"
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A stock holder for the Millers Falls Langdon. Homemade. Uses a carriage bolt from underneath.
IMG_2294 (640x480).jpg
In use.

[Phil Mueller]

Mike, here’s another good resource:

https://sites.google.com/site/langdo...me/model-guide

[Mike Allen1010]

Steve and Phil thanks so much for all your help!


Steve, your pictures are super helpful. Very generous of you to take the time to share them with me – I really appreciate your coaching. You have an impressive collection of miter boxes and seems like there's a significant amount of engineering that goes into different models. I'm not sure I understand it all but I'm motivated to plunge in and take my chances.


Phil, I really appreciate your offer. I'll send you a PM. I have waaay too many saws and the older I get, the more important it is for me to find them a new home.


All the best, Mike

[Mike Holbrook]

Hi Mike,

I have two miter boxes, a Miller Falls 74C and a Stanley 150. The Stanley does not have the two posts the MF does so a shorter saw will cut through a wider board, utilizing more of the saw blade. The other factor that you may find interesting is you can use a small hand saw or half back in the 150.

Sm Bontz:Stanley Miter Saw.jpg

My MF 74C has a 26' saw, my 150 uses a 20". The 150 is obviously easier to move around, fits in my saw cabinet. The MF 74C is probably more accurate. I think you have pictures of the Miller Falls miter boxes.

[Mike Allen1010]

Thanks a lot Mike I really appreciate you sharing your perspective about the merits of large versus small minor boxes.


BTW, I'm gonna call a "stealth gloat" for your picture – that's got to be one of the most beautiful miter saws I've ever seen! I'm guessing, nahh it's not a I guess – I know for sure, that's gotta be one of Ron Bontz's beautiful saws?


Cheers, Mike

[Mike Holbrook]

Right you are Mike, stealth gloat it is. A poster here on SMC got me interested in the Stanley 150. He mentioned an article Bad Axe was running on the 150. He also mentioned the Bad Axe saw he used in his 150... I had always coveted Ron's saws. I talked to Ron and he made a great saw specifically for the box, as only Ron can. It is a thing of beauty. My 150 is mounted on a bench hook now, very easy to attach to my saw station cabinet. The hook and miter box fit in the door below it.

Saw:glue station.jpg
Miter saw table.jpg

[Mike Holbrook]

I finished the basement at our house. A bathroom cabinet arrived with issues. They sent a new cabinet and told me to keep the original. I had a Festool top that arrived damaged, broken edges. I used the free damaged pieces to make a saw & glue up/assembly station. Later, I reinforced the back side of the cabinet. I used a couple LV, heavy, folding shelf supports and an old formica counter top to add a folding shelf to the back of the cabinet, as a place to stack sawed or glued wood. I plan on reinforcing the bottom, the top and maybe the sides of the cabinet. I may add locking casters to the reinforced bottom, especially if it places the miter saw at a good working height. Waste not! Nice miter saws deserve a good cabinet IMHO.