Red Oak Table top - Linseed oil & epoxy

[Jim Becker]

The Epoxy may be more practical for this particular situation because of it going to be located in a Fire House where cleaning things may tend to be more arduous than in a home environment from a chemicals standpoint. Products used in that kind of environment are likely less friendly to varnishes and other finishes that are able to stand up to home type cleaning.

[Steve Schoene]

I've seen a lot of dull, yellowed or crazed epoxy coated table or bar tops. It's definately not a 100 year coating maybe not a 12year coating. And, when it deteriorates epoxy is a bear to remove in order to refinish the top. Why is a shiney finish necessary in a fire house for a bunch of brave, hardworking firemen? I'd give the top a few coats of an oil/varnish mix and expect to do a serious cleanup and redo every year. Way less work in the beginning, moderate extra work annually, but without major redo projects when the epoxy gets ratty.

[Prashun Patel]

Thinking about it more, I second (as if he needs it) Steve's advice.

My work desk is red oak, oil varnished. It is remarkably durable. I expected to have to redo my desk every year, but it is as shiny as it was 5 years ago. By virtue of there being no film, there is really nothing to wear away. Like all OV applications, it's a satin sheen, which means it does not show scratches. It has gotten better looking with time. I've spilled hot coffee on the desk, and put a million cold water glasses on it. Not a single ring.

There is one caveat: the open grain of red oak will gather dirt and patina quickly. So, it CAN look dirty. If I were to do it again, I would apply a dark brown oil based stain after the 2nd OilVarnish application. I would buff off the stain completely, which will leave almost no color in the wood, but will 'glaze' the open grain dark. Then I would continue with the remaining OV coats, to seal that. This effect on red oak can be quite nice. It adds overall (not uniform) color to the entire top, and helps hide the inevitable dirt that may gather.

[robert baccus]

I agree with Jim--poly is designed for gym floors and potty seats and should be limited to those. Behlen's makes a Bar Top Varnish that is really tough but might be poly??

[Prashun Patel]

"poly is designed for gym floors and potty seats and should be limited to those"

Curious: have you used poly on tables? On the ones I've done with it, I find it holds up fine, and can look wonderful if applied properly. I also think in an oil-varnish mix, the choice of varnish is less critical.