Counterpoint. Who here believe that a long track can ride around in an 8' bed very long with out getting bent.
I have both, I use the 75/32 combination when on site.
Betterly makes a connector that is better if one feels it is a need.
Counterpoint. Who here believe that a long track can ride around in an 8' bed very long with out getting bent.
I have both, I use the 75/32 combination when on site.
Betterly makes a connector that is better if one feels it is a need.
Because you ask - I'm very particular and strive to be precise and exact woodworker. I have built many kitchens worth of cabinets from plywood ripped with my connected rails without compromise. I went as long as I did before buying the long rail because I had none of the issues that others report with inaccuracy/lack of straight cuts. Any variance was negligible. I maintain that a very flat work surface is key. I never really fussed with connecting the rails - simply put them together with the provided bars. I store my rails hanging long and if I carry them to a job site they are well protected in a purpose built box. Maybe all that has contributed to my satisfaction with the connected rails over the years. I only finally ordered a long rail because of the inconvenience of needing to plan my long rips in conjunction with shorter cuts. Often enough I forgot something and needed to reconnect the rails. That was a major downside, otherwise I was a happy guide rail connector.
Obviously - most others have not shared my experience.
"... for when we become in heart completely poor, we at once are the treasurers & disbursers of enormous riches."
WQJudge
Curious - those of you that use Festool and Makita tracks with Festool saws - do you find you need to readjust the saw every time you switch between rail brands? Thinking about that long Makita rail...
Correct.
I was checking for the first while against a straight edge but it's always right on. I think it's the channel/connection piece that pulls them straight vs. just the butt ends being square.
not my video, but here's how it works:
https://youtu.be/8LuPb0DQgB8
Andy
I don't think that the issue is whether or not two can be as precise as one, but how much fussing about does it take to make two as precise as one, and can the two maintain that same equality over a given duration as the one.
However, the wood is still the biggest variable in the equation, and unless it's cabinet ply, it's not going to be the same dimensionally tomorrow, as it was today.
"The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)
If precise is what you want, then use a table saw in a proper shop.
I bought the DeWalt with 59 and 102 inch tracks because I knew I wanted the long track and it was the cheapest with both tracks. I think that is still true. I later bought the short 41 inch track and connector so I could put both short tracks together and avoid needing to transport the long one. I mainly wanted the short one for in the shop, however. I might get another and cut it. I was cross cutting pieces a little over 12 inches wide yesterday and 41 inches wasn't too handy. Anyway, long track pricing is an advantage of the DeWalt.
How precise do you need to be in breaking down sheet goods to manageable pieces? I'm not sure how I would even detect a cut that wasn't exactly straight by 1/16" over an 8 ft length, not owning a long straightedge of that quality. Are the factory edges on plywood that good? That level of straight seems fine to me for carpentry tasks like cutting sheathing. Anything going into a piece of furniture in my shop is going to get the final cuts done on the table saw where I have much better control over dimensions, squareness, as well as straightness of the cut.
Some people use the track saw as a table saw replacement. I am not one of them.
A track saw can be more precise that most folks' table saws...it's not about breaking down the goods, it's about making the final cut the first time. And for many folks using these systems, they are either on a job site cutting to measured specification, or utilizing the tool to make it easier and more comfortable to do the work. It's just a different way to work. The question about joining two shorter tracks is also a valid concern when you take "final cut" into consideration. If two shorter tracks have even a barely perceptible variation at the join, it really could affect the cut result in a visible way.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...