Contributor
This is how I use mine in the shop. Anyone can break down plywood with a builders saw and then re-cut it. I make glue-joint ready cuts with my TS 55 track saw, needing precision and repeatability.Originally Posted by Jim Becker
Many of the cuts I make for yacht cabinetry are at angles other than 90* (not bevel cuts) and are easier with a track saw, making splinter-free cuts in expensive veneered ply, mostly teak. The 10' track is also regularly used to straighten the raw edge of lumber.
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
Guest
The tracksaws are handy, but it didn't change the way we did much. It rarely gets used in the shop, but when it's the right tool, I'm glad we have it. What it get's used for on our end the most is cutting strange angles, or for cutting angles on something that's too heavy to justify heaving into the panel saw. Like a 25-1/2 x 100' QSWO 8/4 L shaped wood top that is getting mitred in the corner. I'm not throwing that and my back out getting into in the panel saw. It's just not worth the hassle. Or when you have to build some corner cabinet at some bizarre angle like 23.5º, you just mark it out to the numbers, stack your decks and hog it down. I think that would be faster than having the fancy angle jig that is supposed to go in the panel saw, but I couldn't afford at the time.
It's been a boon for when I can't read appliance specifications and I make an opening wrong too and I'm stuck hacking something down onsite that's installed. Like a customer buying the only model of front load washer and dryer that isn't 38-1/2" tall and I just assume, so the top rail needs some tweaking. With a good vacuum there isn't much mess to be dealt with.
We don't use it much, but when it's right, it is soooo right.
Moderator
I agree. My most unique situation here was when I wanted to move a Thos Moser inspired armoire that I had built into one of the bedrooms in the 250 year old portion of the house. Because of the narrow doors, etc. It was to serve (at that time) for guest clothing storage as there is no closet in that bedroom. it had to be moved into the space on it's side and then tilted up in the center of the room because of the sloped ceilings. Unfortunately it was about 1" too tall to be able to tip up with the low ceiling height. That meant I had to modify the height of the base in situ...and the track saw was the perfect tool for a perfect edge.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Contributor
Maybe I don't know how to use a track saw, certainly a possibility since I've only had it for a year or so and never taken a class or gotten a lesson.
When making a long cut I assume that I have a straight edge from the factory on one side of my plywood. I don't know how good this assumption is. I measure from that edge at three points to establish my cutline, the two ends and center. Then I put the track down and make sure it lines up at all three points. If it doesn't I have to stop and figure out why not. Most commonly one of my measurements was off, second most common error is that my reference edge wasn't actually straight, third (hasn't actually happened yet) would be that the track isn't straight.
I believe the greatest limitation of both accuracy and reproducibility is my ability to line up the flexible rubber edge of the track (which on my track isn't even down tight against the board, but elevated by maybe 1/32-1/64"), to the measurement marks. I don't see how this process can possibly be more precise than running the board between two solid, fixed points, eg the saw blade and fence.
Neither process is perfect for accuracy (achieving the "true" desired value), but the table saw and fence seems much better for precision (achieving the same value reproducibly). I find the latter to be more important for making parts that fit together well. Re-doing the measurement and alignment process with the track for each cut seems inescapably more variable than running all the parts through the same table saw setup where (I hope) nothing moves. When you have to make many parts the same size the measure and align process with the track seems tedious.
Is there a better way to use the track that will bring the variability I see down to the same kind of level as I see with a table saw setup? I'd be perfectly happy to cut once rather than twice. Do you make a story stick or alignment block for each cut to set the track distance from the edge?
All that said, I love the track saw and not having to horse full sheets of plywood around by myself! For any task where I can use a pencil to mark the cut line and expect a good result and are only making one or two cuts I do use it for the final cut.
Moderator
Roger, placing the rail accurately is certainly an important part of of this as you surmise. I personally don't have any problem getting the track lined up right on the mark, but everyone's eyesight is a little different. Some folks use mechanical guides, such as a parallel setup kit to help with super critical cuts and when there's any chance of the track being inadvertently moved, securing it with a clamp is indicated.
While running a piece of material between a fixed fence and blade might at first seem to be potentially more accurate, the very act of a human hand pushing that material through the cut can introduce minor variations...something noticeable ones. A slider can be "more accurate", but that's because the material is "fixed" to the wagon, either up against an accurate fence or clamped down through the cut. That removes typical human introduced variances in the cut leaves a glue-ready joint with a sharp blade. Correspondingly, if you clamp your track saw rail to the material, you're removing a lot of the variability and can get a very high quality cut. Again, the key here is that like with a slider, setup is very important with a track saw and that includes measuring as you note. But if you do it well, you're eliminating some extra steps that often can come using other methods. But to be clear, there is no "one way" that is best and each of us should use the methods that we are most comfortable with and are appropriate for the work at hand.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Member
...and NO the factory edge is NOT a straight edge! At least it isn't for me. My first rip is often in the middle of the sheet (or some factor of width that gives me the best yield) and I then work off my rip. I always discount the factory edges - at the ends or in the lengths.
"... for when we become in heart completely poor, we at once are the treasurers & disbursers of enormous riches."
WQJudge
Contributor
My experience is closer to Roger's. Maybe I just don't know how best to use the TS55. I find the track placement fiddly. I feel the track must be clamped or it will move. The flexible plastic edge on both of my tracks sits higher than the material surface like Roger's. I experience considerable parallax error because of the clear edge floating in space. The few times where I've had to get the right width or a perfect 90 degree crosscut, it's taken more than one cut.
As a turnkey solution for people who have to work in the field, I'm sure the Festool track saw is a great solution. However, for hobbyists like me that primary make furniture or cabinetry, the old method of using a length of 1/4" plywood with an attached fence and a circular saw was actually a superior arrangement. Placement on a line was always perfect and you had your choice of a much more powerful left or right hand cut circular saw.
Contributor
I have never heard of such a procedure; no wonder it seems tedious. Align the track precisely on TWO marks. The correct assumption is that, since the track hasn't been in an accident since last use, it is still straight. Another assumption is that, after you've re-cut the virtually always buggered-up factory edge, using the track saw, it will be straight. If you're cutting a bunch of small, parallel-edged pieces, by all means run them through the table saw.
Note: I have never ever had to clamp the track--the grippy strips hold it firmly in position with simple downward pressure on the track.
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
Moderator
Andy, the three points are not needed for the actual cut, but can be helpful just as a "check" on the operator. If he/she makes three marks and they don't line up, then something is amiss with at least one of them and it brings re-measuring before material gets wasted. The actual cut line would clearly be served by the two end marks once it's confirmed they are in the right spot. Do we have to do this? No. But it's not a horrible practice.
You are also correct that in general, the tracks stay put. But sometimes we have to make a cut where the operator's position might be awkward, so clamping insures that track stays put, even if "extra" stresses happen. Most of the time I don't clamp the track. Sometimes I do when it gives additional assurance or because of the physical circumstances of the cut.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Contributor
Correction to my statement that I never ever clamp the track: Once, when I had to make a precise cut to a bulkhead (vertical partition) on a 53' yacht I had to clamp one end of the track and tape down the other, as I did not have gravity helping me hold it in place, and I had only one chance of getting it right on a virtually priceless component.
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
Member
I am another cut to finish size guy. My shop is 14x24 which makes cutting anything large on the table saw a chore. Much easier to leave it stationary and use the track saw. For example, I am buiding a queen sized bed right now. Tonight is probably just another coat of finish on the panels in the headboard and inside frame edge but soon I will glue up the headboard, hopefully tomorrow night. When it dries I will true up the three pieces of wood in the side of the headboard panel with the track saw. It is large and heavy and only three sides are straight. It would be much more of a chore to cut on the table saw. After that, I need to cut the wood for the rails to width. I will do it with the track saw because it will give me straight rails and the wood is heavy. The side cuts on the headboard will be glued to the posts without further work on them and the cuts on the rails will be sanded and finished.
I do not use a track saw exclusively. Many cuts are easier or done better on a table saw (like getting the legs for the bed to final size). But typically if I need to cut a big piece of solid or manufacturered wood, I use the track saw. I did this for decades without one but I find it much easier to have and use one.
Contributor
Wow! we've wandered way off course from the Op's original question. That's the beauty of this forum though.
I don't use my track saws normally to make the "first time", final cut. Maybe a final trim, but not a final cut. I've put way too much time, effort, and $$$$, into making my table saw to cut perfect 90's, and parallel rips.
I originally bought my TS75 to turn a 16 1/2' long, 3' wide, 2" thick, piece of padauk into a table top. I did need the clamps for those cuts, because the wood was rough cut starting off, and there wasn't enough surface adhesion for the track material, like on cabinet ply.
"The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)
Member
Have two 55" rails and have had no concerns using them for 8' rips with accuracy. Use a 4x8 table with a 1" piece of rigid foam board for support. Have cut up lots of sheet goods with accuracy. I see the point others make about switching back and forth to short and long cuts. It would be nice to have a long rail and use the short ones, but I want other tools more.
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Member
Hell, I don't have a problem with cutting 55 inches then moving the track for another 55 inches.
Member
Brandon, thanks for the tip. There's a $25 off $100 Makita promo at toolnut.com which knocks it down from $199. Amazon has the $25 Makita deal as well but the rail before the discount is $284 on Amazon vs. $199 at Toolnut. Shipping is free.
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