Carbide Bandsaw Blade

[Barry McFadden]

I'm thinking of getting a carbide blade for my bandsaw. From what I've seen online it looks like the carbide teeth are brazed on and are wider than the blade itself, similar to my Radial Saw carbide blades. Would these teeth not tend to chew up the bandsaw tires since they stick out on each side of the blade?

[Jacques Gagnon]

Hello Barry,

I guess the answer is no and ... yes.

Depending on the type of saw you are running, the tires on the wheels will either be "flat" or "crowned".

The blade runs on the outside edge of flat tires, therefore the blade's teeth are not in contact with the rubber. Hence the no answer (although all tires - flat and crowned will eventually need to be replaced)

On crowned tires the blade is more or less positioned towards the center of the wheel and the teeth are protruding towards the front. The curvature of the tire (crown) creates a space that increases progressively towards the outside, somewhat making room for the blade's teeth. This brings you to the yes part of the answer, but I am not sure (others will confirm or infirm) whether a carbide blade will result in a different wear pattern than other blades, given the fact that all blades have some set (kerf) and are therefore in contact with the tire to a varying degree.

[Jim Becker]

Jacques' advise is great. I'll add that you need to ascertain if your particular saw can properly tension a blade like that, too. Smaller saws and these blades are not a good match.

[Barry McFadden]

I have a 14" Rikon 10-326 and it looks to me like the tires are flat. At the moment I run the blade pretty much in the center of the wheels....so are you saying that if I got a carbide blade I would have to adjust it to run at the front of the wheel instead of the middle?

[Nick Decker]

Barry, I have that same saw (love it). I recently bought a Lenox Trimaster for it, and was not happy with the way it performed. My comments are at the end of this thread:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...33#post2748133

I know there are a few folks who have posted about being happy with carbide blades on 14" saws. Me, I think they're better suited to larger saws.

Edit: If you lay a straight edge across one of your tires, you'll see a slight crown. For that reason, I track my blades as close to center as I can get them.

[Jim Finn]

I use my 14" Grizzly bandsaw primarily to re-saw six inch cedar, walnut and maple. I use supercut "carbide gold" blades.they have the carbide impregnated into the steel blade and serve me well. They are 1/2" 3 TPI blades made for re-sawing. I find them to last longer than woodslicer blades and cost about the same. $29. I track my blades so the gullets of the teeth are about in the center of the tire.

[Barry McFadden]

Thanks everyone for the replies ....much appreciated...

Nick....sounds like maybe I'll just stick with the regular blades...they cut fine so I don't think I would gain anything by going to a carbide one..

[Nick Decker]

Barry, that's pretty much where I'm at. Other than the durability, I saw no benefits to carbide on my saw. If I were in a production shop, it might make sense, although if that were the case I'd most likely get a larger saw.

[Jim Becker]

I have a 14" Rikon 10-326 and it looks to me like the tires are flat. At the moment I run the blade pretty much in the center of the wheels....so are you saying that if I got a carbide blade I would have to adjust it to run at the front of the wheel instead of the middle?

Barry, I believe you'll have issue properly tensioning a carbide blade like the Lenox on a smaller saw like your have. Even my heavy MM16 was, in my opinion, pushing the limits for a stout blade as those with actual carbide teeth must be.