I think the safest bet and the easiest to reverse is probably changing the clips and wrapping the paper backwards definitely going to happen when my new mesh sandpaper gets here so I will let you guys know how it goes.
[OP]
Contributor
I think the safest bet and the easiest to reverse is probably changing the clips and wrapping the paper backwards definitely going to happen when my new mesh sandpaper gets here so I will let you guys know how it goes.
Contributor
Originally Posted by George Bokros
Take the cut off piece and glue it inside the drum inboard of the cutout. The weight of the glue will offset the lost metal from cutting, the balance will be maintained.
Member
I am also an engineer and am constantly amazed at poor design decisions in products today. I see it where I work also.
To me, the biggest offenders are cost saving measures. A classic example was a product many years ago that shipped with a floppy disk device driver. A marketing guy got an award for finding a low cost supplier that saved $0.10 per disk. The quality on those disks were so bad that it is amazing that they worked at all. Nearly every customer would then feel the need to make a backup copy using a 3M disk that cost them $1.00 and 5 minutes of extra time.
I think cutting the notch to give better visibility is a great improvement. I am going to look into adding that feature on my sander.
Steve
Member
Unless I missed it elsewhere in the thread, I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the tool specifically made for holding the clamps while replacing the paper.
jetn98-0060.jpg
https://www.amazon.com/Jet-JET-98-00.../dp/B00S6YT3PU (probably available cheaper elsewhere)
I've got one that I use with my Performax 22-44 and it works great; I just changed the paper a few days ago.
Contributor
It was mentioned, but without an image.
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
Contributor
Curt - I wouldn't expect the balance to be an issue because (1) the wall thickness of the drum in that area is fairly thin, (2) the amount of material to be removed is relatively small, (3) the 5" diameter of the drum is relatively small, (4) the speed of the drum is only 1750 RPM, and (5) the shaft and bearings are quite large, relatively.
However, thanks for mentioning this possibility -- opposite side drum material removal is a potential fix for this issue.
If/when I make this revision, I will post the method & results.
Paul
Last edited by Paul Stoops; 12-14-2017 at 6:49 PM. Reason: Correct drum diameter
Contributor
The drum is much larger than 2.5"
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
Member
I have two of these tools from my 10/20 and 16/32 sanders. I didn't bring them up because I found them to just be a distraction and not worth the effort. I have changed paper so many times that I can do it in about a minute. If you use it a lot, you will get much more efficient at it without redesigning anything.
Member
I think they call it the TUF tool, and how it works is beyond me. The photos in the manual are useless.
Moderator
Nick, I had the same problem at first and agreed with those who said to just throw it away. Shame on the doc people who wrote and illustrated those instructions!
If you take a little inspection mirror and hold it below the end of the clip you might see there are several holes in the last piece of metal, the part you lift with your finger if not using the tool.
What worked for me:
- First, wind the sandpaper strip on the drum
- Hook the end of the the devilish tool in the end hole in the clip, the one in the outer corner.
- Pull straight up to lift the lever and compress both springs and open the gripping jaws in the clip.
- Twist the whole tool while holding it up and the little flat bend in the tool will swing over and rest on the edge of the drum. This will hold the tool in place with the springs compressed (and also pinch the end of the strip).
- Now, unless you have three hands and didn't allow the sandpaper strip to slip any, lift the tool slightly and pull the strip tight again.
- Insert the sandpaper in the slot assuring it goes into the jaws as usual.
- Lift the tool slightly, rotate back to clear the drum and lower to tighten the jaws and tensioner.
This drove me nuts at first since you can't easily see what you are doing and exactly where to put the hook in the tool. Eventually I took a closer look and figured it out but really, it only takes five seconds to do it without the tool so I never used it again. It may be quite valuable for someone with dexterity or finger strength limitations.
JKJ
Contributor
You can experiment with the balance problem by adding weight (we use clay in our industry) equivalent of what you think you'll remove. You'll have no way to measure anything, but maybe you'll hear / feel something. Maybe rest your hand on one of the pillowblocks?
36" is a long distance between bearings. You could get some cross coupling. It slow moving though, which is good. Who knows how accurate the OEM was when they balanced these anyway. (especially considering that you add a unknown unbalance every time you add sandpaper)
--
I graduated with only a 2.9, but engineers don't get questioned where I work. Bahaha!
Last edited by andrew whicker; 12-14-2017 at 11:25 AM.
Contributor
OOPS! You're right, Andy. I originally wrote the reply using the radius (2.5") and forgot to edit it to 5" when I changed the word to "diameter". Thanks for catching that.
Paul
Member
JKJ,
Thanks, I'll take another look at the TUF tool with your explanation in mind. I'm old enough that arthritis in my fingers occasionally rears its ugly head.
[OP]
Contributor
Des Going a goofy tool that doesn’t work to fix a problem that doesn’t need to exist in the first place is hilarious. I really don’t think there is any need to cut up or change the balance of the drum. I’ll switch Hear clips this weekend if I get time and I’m sure it will work just fine and he ev n better then a cutout rhatcstill has the clip in a hard to access area.
Moderator
The photos of each step. Others will be interested in what you discover. And how it works with some use.
JKJ
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