[OP]
Contributor
Had to change my sandpaper on my 16-32 for the first time in a while and I still can't get over how dumb it was to put the spring loaded clip on the right side of the drum where there is no access to it when the left side of the drum is completely open and easy to get to. I've actually thought about looking at what it would take to switch the drum around end for end but I just don't use that thing enough to mess with it.
Member
I had the same thought, but decided it was way too difficult. Good luck.
Member
The sanding action tightens the paper around the drum, effectively making it 'longer' in the direction of the spring loaded take up. The take up adjusts to keep the paper tight. If the take up were on the other side, the paper would be loose on the drum unless they change the direction the paper is wound on the drum. I've often wondered why they didn't just reverse the wind and put the take up on the outside as well.
[OP]
Contributor
why couldn't you wind the paper the other way?Originally Posted by Robert Cherry
Member
The way the drum is machined prevents winding the other direction.
[OP]
Contributor
Hmm, pretty sure you can wind the paper either way on the drum. You just need to reverse the taper on the paper.
[OP]
Contributor
Just checked, the drum has weights on the inside to balance it so I don't think flipping it is a good idea but the clips are held on by a screw and the smallest locknut I have ever seen. The clips can be reversed because they are mounted on opposite sides of the drum so I might try that tomorrow if I get time.
Moderator
Keith,
I have the 22-44 so I don't know if the clip mechanism is identical but I suspect it is.
I have worked on these before. Before you remove the philips screws on either end (especially the motor end) I suggest you measure the distance from the center of the screw to the slot. On my 22-44 they are different, meaning the two clips are not interchangeable without drilling. If you decide to remove them the nylock nut is 5.5mm. Be aware there is a tiny lock washer loose between the clip and the inside of the aluminum drum. Unless you are mechanically adept or have three tiny but powerful hands, removing the inner clip may require removing the drum to reinstall it. Installing without removing the drum is certainly possible but it may need gyrations with several tools and superglue. I think it would be far easier to remove the drum. I hadn't thought about it before but the comment about direction of rotation working to keep the sandpaper strip may well have merit so swapping the clips (or drum) may cause a problem. Perhaps it is best to first call and ask the tech support.
I can't imagine balancing weights caring which way the drum spins. But if they are to balance the clips that could be an issue if you swapped the heavier clip for the lighter clip.
I suspect you can wind from the inside out but then the strip would not be tensioned properly unless after winding you tightened the strip from the left then reset the inner, spring loaded tension clip. I haven't tried this since winding from the outer end inwards works fine. At minimum, winding the other way might be awkward due to the design (at least on my 22-44).
You may know all this but in case someone else doesn't and gets frustrated with the inner clip when replacing the paper:
The inner clip is more difficult to compress since it is dual action - it has one spring holding the clip that grips the sandpaper and a second, stronger spring that tensions the sandpaper after it is gripped by the first. You have to compress both of these at once in order to install the paper. What makes it worse is the end of the sandpaper may try to "go down" the wrong way and slide under the spring instead of into the jaws of the clip.
Performax included a special tool with mine to compress the inner clip and while it is trivial to use once you know how it is very difficult to see how it is supposed to work. I didn't find the instructions helpful. A small inspection mirror is very helpful. Some people find it easier to just compress the clip with the left forefinger then insert the sandpaper tip. I don't have any trouble with it either using or not using the tool so I don't use it.
I put a new strip of 60 grit on mine just a few minutes ago and this is what I did (took about a minute):
- Compress the outer clip and insert the tip of the paper (not too far or there won't be enough for the clip on the other end to grip)
- Wind the length of the strip, holding it tight on every turn
- Bend the last inch or so of the inside paper opposite the existing curl to straighten it
- Reach in with the left forefinger and pull the end of the clip all the way up (examine first with an inspection mirror if needed to see how it works)
- Insert the paper straight down through the slot and through the jaws of the clip
- Release the clip and the strip should be held and pulled tight
I haven't looked at the instructions for a few years so maybe this is all spelled out there.
Again, this is on the 22-44.
JKJ
Contributor
Not all the engineers got A's..........
[OP]
Contributor
I understand how the clip works, I even have a special pair of bent needle nose pliers to make it easier to access. My gripe is there shouldn't be any need to. It should be on the outside to begin with. The clips are mounted opposite. Each other on the drum so swapping them won't affect the paper being pulled against it as it is spinning. I didn't measure the distance of the screw holes on the clips they just looked close but I will do that. Sometimes a rotating assembly is balanced in place meaning they put the weights on while the drum is in its current location and would be the best way to do it. If they did it that way then flipping it would change things but again as long as the screw hole distance is the same the clips should be reversible.
[OP]
Contributor
Crap the outside hole is 1/2 away and the inside home is 5/8 the away. Oh well I guess I’ll just keep dealing with a stupid design.
Contributor
I don't know, but I never has problem with location of clips for sandpaper.
Ed.
Contributor
JJ--thanks for the explanation. I just picked up a 22-44 this weekend. Came with the Tuftool, though I have not tried it yet.
Anyone have an opinion on the optional infeed and outfeed tables? Heard some comment that they were flimsy. Could just make some.
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
Contributor
Not all design decisions are made by engineers.
John, a retired engineer - who did get mostly A's.
Contributor
Keith you need to remember those drum sanders evolved from a drum in a frame, clamped on a radial arm saw, driven by a pulley on the saw's arbour. There wasn't much on the end of the drum to get in the way of paper changes. I maybe wrong but I don't think there were engineers back then, just the guy that came up with the idea and it grew from there. In the intervening years the clips could have been improved I suppose. I have one and "upgraded" to the tripod stand and belt feed to make a free standing machine out of it.
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