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Thread: How do I polish epoxy resin?

  1. #1

    How do I polish epoxy resin?

    I've been struggling with this for weeks now. I am currently working with soft maple and Walnut. I fill holes with casting resin with pigment mixed in. I let it dry, sand it through 220 dry then up to 2000 wet. The sanding causes cloudiness in the resin. I finish with Watco Danish Oil. My goal is to get a clear finish without it being covered in a film or cloudy. I've watched a bunch of YouTube videos but can't figure out a technique or product to get the clear finish I've seen others achieve. Anyone with some experience that can help?

  2. #2
    I might be able to help you but here's some questions that will help me help you:

    what kind of resin are you using? (Brand/type)
    what type (brand) of additives?
    are you using a pressure pot?
    are you turning pens or bowls or larger forms?
    Can you post a photo of your results so I can see the issue?

    i do a lot of "hybrid" wood/resin work primarily in bowls and im great friends with an elite level pen maker whose finishing technique is unparalleled....

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  3. #3
    Harold, I'm not turning, I'm using flat sawn pieces, filling knot holes and such. The resin I'm using is something I picked up at the local craft store, "Amazing Clear Cast". I've only tried 1 additive so far, I found it on Amazon, all I know about it is the color, orange and it glows in the dark. Do I need to invest in better materials? If so, what do you recommend? I can't post a picture right now, the previous experiments are shelves in my daughter's room and she's sleeping.

  4. #4
    Alumilite clear cast is very forgiving stuff except for one thing - water. If the resin isn't fully cured (this can take a week if it's curing in a cool temperature environment) and exposed to the slightest dampness, the resin will cloud up. My guess is you're wet sanding routine is causing the issue. Or, perhaps, the wood has moisture in it. If the wood isn't fully dry, that also causes issues.

    Alumilite hardens into a hard plastic. It can be polished using automotive waxes, or other micro abrasives. The one I use most often is EEE U-Beaut. But I'm spinning stuff, not doing it with elbow grease. I'm sure an orbital polisher would work well but I've never used one.

    my suggestions:
    Make sure the wood is dry. (There is a trick you can try - before pouring the resin, seal the inside of the void completely with a thin coat of mod-podge in order to create a micro thin, water-proof barrier between the wood and the epoxy)
    Fill the void and let it fully cure
    Dry sand only. Up to something like 1200 is good enough in my experience with cutting boards using resin.
    Buff with EEE or another micro abrasive polish/wax.

    I make cutting/serving boards with resin in them and put salad bowl finish or mineral oil over the top of them. I hope this helps you.

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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Denver, CO
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    209
    You'll need to use a clear film-forming finish to achieve the look you're going for. Even sanding to a high grit, the epoxy will still appear cloudy. Since Danish oil gets wiped off, that won't work. If you wipe or brush on some poly, the epoxy will instantly become clear. Use gloss if you want to minimize any cloudiness.

  6. #6
    Is there a specific poly you've found that works well in this application?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    209
    Really any should work. It may take two coats to get a very clear look if you use a thinned formulation like Minwax wipe-on poly.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    North Virginia
    Posts
    341
    I normally use shellac for a top coat on epoxy (or other resins).

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