Power Amp - Replacement Power Switch

[Dennis Peacock]

Does anybody here know where I can get a replacement power switch for a Ross Systems Mega Amp 800?

[Malcolm McLeod]

Not positive, but seems like someone bought Ross ..... thinking Akai??

If Akai can't cross reference the part, then my electrical gadget go-to-supplier-of-last resort-cuz-they have-everything is Allied Electronics.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Do you have a schematic on it Dennis?

[Dennis Peacock]

Ken,
I do not have anything on this old amp. The switch is going out on the church's sound system and I narrowed it down to the power switch on this amp. I think the church paid something like $200 the last time to have the switch replaced. I think I can do it for cheaper.......if I can find the replacement part.

[Jim Koepke]

Ken,
I do not have anything on this old amp. The switch is going out on the church's sound system and I narrowed it down to the power switch on this amp. I think the church paid something like $200 the last time to have the switch replaced. I think I can do it for cheaper.......if I can find the replacement part.

Can you post a picture?

One of my home appliance switches needed some work last weekend and it was easy peasy.

Trying to guess what kind of switch set up your equipment has without knowing if it is part of a volume control, a separate rocker, slide, turn or toggle switch will give me four chances out of five to guess wrong.

Often components will have a manufacturer listed along with a part number on the component. Some items are interchangeable and can be bought locally from a local appliance/electronics repair/parts shop.

jtk

[David L Morse]

Does it look like this?
Switch.jpg
That's most likely a very standard switch. Here's one example.
You need to check the hole size. This is what that Amazon part requires:
SwitchSize.jpg

In addition to Amazon you can check Digi-Key or Mouser or as Malcolm suggested Allied If that's not the right size. You want at least a 16A rating at 125 Volts.

The existing switch should be marked with both ratings and a manufacturer's part number.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Dennis,

I have a friend who owns a music store and is the local areas repair guy for amps, mixers etc. I will go by his store tomorrow and see if he has schematics, parts breakdowns and recommendations. I will post back here, my friend.

As Jim, said, often the current and voltage ratings are printed right on the switch.

[Dennis Peacock]

Here is a pic of the switch that is currently in the amp.

rsz_power_amp.jpg

[Myk Rian]

Is there room behind the panel for a toggle switch?

[Dennis Peacock]

Probably. I haven't taken it out of the rack yet....but I can.

[Adam Herman]

that switch is a standard radioshack sort of part. most good hardwares will have a toggle switch that will fit in the hole behind it.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Dennis, I used to repair all sorts of audio gear and power switches are fairly simple. Check the info on the switch, then check out this site to see if you can locate a replacement. https://www.mouser.com/

[Dennis Peacock]

Dennis, I used to repair all sorts of audio gear and power switches are fairly simple. Check the info on the switch, then check out this site to see if you can locate a replacement. https://www.mouser.com/

Thank you Steve. Much appreciated. Will do.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Dennis,

I just got back from my friends business. He advised as Steve did, going to Mouser, Allied or Newark. I will spend some time looking. Getting information off the switch would be a help.

[John K Jordan]

The only things that matter in a switch are its voltage and current ratings and the configuration - things like single/double pole, momentary, and special environmental conditions.

A 110v power switch is probably the simplest sort, a single-pole toggle switch for dry locations. If you can't find a replacement part just get any switch with suitable current rating and make some means to mount it securely, perhaps even drilling another hole and covering the old hole. If you can't find the current rating printed on the switch either get one way over-rated or see if there is an electrical plate or sticker on the back of the amplifier giving the device amperage.

The switch on my older drill press went out and I could not locate a replacement. It was rectangular and snapped into a rectangular hole in a mounting plate. I bought a switch that would handle the current, cut a new plate from something, and cut a rectangular hole for the switch. Has worked fine for the last 15 years.

Also, I've repaired many switches over the year by disassembling and cleaning/polishing the contacts, adding a dab of dielectric grease, then reassembling. Sometimes a switch goes bad because of broken components or burned contacts and can't be repaired but I've seen more that could be restored than couldn't. The switch body often snaps together and can be pried apart, has small screws, or sometimes rivets which can be drilled out.

JKJ