Does anybody here know where I can get a replacement power switch for a Ross Systems Mega Amp 800?
Does anybody here know where I can get a replacement power switch for a Ross Systems Mega Amp 800?
Thanks & Happy Wood Chips,
Dennis -
Get the Benefits of Being an SMC Contributor..!
....DEBT is nothing more than yesterday's spending taken from tomorrow's income.
Not positive, but seems like someone bought Ross ..... thinking Akai??
If Akai can't cross reference the part, then my electrical gadget go-to-supplier-of-last resort-cuz-they have-everything is Allied Electronics.
Do you have a schematic on it Dennis?
Ken
So much to learn, so little time.....
Ken,
I do not have anything on this old amp. The switch is going out on the church's sound system and I narrowed it down to the power switch on this amp. I think the church paid something like $200 the last time to have the switch replaced. I think I can do it for cheaper.......if I can find the replacement part.
Thanks & Happy Wood Chips,
Dennis -
Get the Benefits of Being an SMC Contributor..!
....DEBT is nothing more than yesterday's spending taken from tomorrow's income.
Can you post a picture?
One of my home appliance switches needed some work last weekend and it was easy peasy.
Trying to guess what kind of switch set up your equipment has without knowing if it is part of a volume control, a separate rocker, slide, turn or toggle switch will give me four chances out of five to guess wrong.
Often components will have a manufacturer listed along with a part number on the component. Some items are interchangeable and can be bought locally from a local appliance/electronics repair/parts shop.
jtk
Last edited by Jim Koepke; 12-11-2017 at 7:48 PM. Reason: changed second repair to parts
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Does it look like this?
Switch.jpg
That's most likely a very standard switch. Here's one example.
You need to check the hole size. This is what that Amazon part requires:
SwitchSize.jpg
In addition to Amazon you can check Digi-Key or Mouser or as Malcolm suggested Allied If that's not the right size. You want at least a 16A rating at 125 Volts.
The existing switch should be marked with both ratings and a manufacturer's part number.
Beranek's Law:
It has been remarked that if one selects his own components, builds his own enclosure, and is convinced he has made a wise choice of design, then his own loudspeaker sounds better to him than does anyone else's loudspeaker. In this case, the frequency response of the loudspeaker seems to play only a minor part in forming a person's opinion.
L.L. Beranek, Acoustics (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1954), p.208.
Dennis,
I have a friend who owns a music store and is the local areas repair guy for amps, mixers etc. I will go by his store tomorrow and see if he has schematics, parts breakdowns and recommendations. I will post back here, my friend.
As Jim, said, often the current and voltage ratings are printed right on the switch.
Ken
So much to learn, so little time.....
Here is a pic of the switch that is currently in the amp.
rsz_power_amp.jpg
Thanks & Happy Wood Chips,
Dennis -
Get the Benefits of Being an SMC Contributor..!
....DEBT is nothing more than yesterday's spending taken from tomorrow's income.
Is there room behind the panel for a toggle switch?
Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night
Probably. I haven't taken it out of the rack yet....but I can.
Thanks & Happy Wood Chips,
Dennis -
Get the Benefits of Being an SMC Contributor..!
....DEBT is nothing more than yesterday's spending taken from tomorrow's income.
that switch is a standard radioshack sort of part. most good hardwares will have a toggle switch that will fit in the hole behind it.
Dennis, I used to repair all sorts of audio gear and power switches are fairly simple. Check the info on the switch, then check out this site to see if you can locate a replacement. https://www.mouser.com/
Steve
“You never know what you got til it's gone!”
Please don’t let that happen!
Become a financial Contributor today!
Thanks & Happy Wood Chips,
Dennis -
Get the Benefits of Being an SMC Contributor..!
....DEBT is nothing more than yesterday's spending taken from tomorrow's income.
Dennis,
I just got back from my friends business. He advised as Steve did, going to Mouser, Allied or Newark. I will spend some time looking. Getting information off the switch would be a help.
Ken
So much to learn, so little time.....
The only things that matter in a switch are its voltage and current ratings and the configuration - things like single/double pole, momentary, and special environmental conditions.
A 110v power switch is probably the simplest sort, a single-pole toggle switch for dry locations. If you can't find a replacement part just get any switch with suitable current rating and make some means to mount it securely, perhaps even drilling another hole and covering the old hole. If you can't find the current rating printed on the switch either get one way over-rated or see if there is an electrical plate or sticker on the back of the amplifier giving the device amperage.
The switch on my older drill press went out and I could not locate a replacement. It was rectangular and snapped into a rectangular hole in a mounting plate. I bought a switch that would handle the current, cut a new plate from something, and cut a rectangular hole for the switch. Has worked fine for the last 15 years.
Also, I've repaired many switches over the year by disassembling and cleaning/polishing the contacts, adding a dab of dielectric grease, then reassembling. Sometimes a switch goes bad because of broken components or burned contacts and can't be repaired but I've seen more that could be restored than couldn't. The switch body often snaps together and can be pried apart, has small screws, or sometimes rivets which can be drilled out.
JKJ