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Thread: Pirate Chest Build - Part 4 done (lots of pics)

  1. #1
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    Pirate Chest Build - Part 4 done (lots of pics)

    Earlier parts of this build are described in previous, separate posts.

    This is the last part of the build; making the sliding trays that go inside the chest and carving a shell for the front of the chest.

    Here are the runners screwed to the inside of the chest that the trays will slide on.


    1 by Mike Allen, on Flickr


    Sawing the tray components to size at the bench hook and shooting the ends. I don’t always take the time to use the shooting board for all furniture parts, but these will be dovetailed so nice clean, square ends makes it easier for DT layout.

    2 by Mike Allen, on Flickr

    3 by Mike Allen, on Flickr

    4 by Mike Allen, on Flickr


    Here are the components for 3 rectangular trays: mahogany, cherry and some cool flame figured Maple.

    6 by Mike Allen, on Flickr


    Apparently the LOML thanks the shop is a perfect place for flower arrangements – I’m not so sure.

    7 by Mike Allen, on Flickr

    I’m a tails first guy – I like to use a tiny rabbit to help align the boards when describing the pins from the tails (sometimes called the 140 trick after the Stanley model fenced rabbit plane). I also like to pare inside corners of the tails to help the joint go together that glue up.

    8 by Mike Allen, on Flickr

  2. #2
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    Here’s my set up for planing joints flush after assembly – in my twin screw, face vice with a supporting board. Every time I try and shortcut this step by not using a backing board I always gets spelching/chip out, so for me it’s worth the time to clamp up the backing board.

    10 by Mike Allen, on Flickr


    Here are the completed sliding trays. Finish is same as the rest of the chest; Watco oil/varnish followed by shellac and paste wax.

    11 by Mike Allen, on Flickr


    11 (2) by Mike Allen, on Flickr

    13 by Mike Allen, on Flickr


    14 by Mike Allen, on Flickr



    Here are the carved shells (described in a previous post), that serve as the handles for the chest installed.

    16 by Mike Allen, on Flickr


    Here’s some pictures of the different style carved shell that will go on the front of the chest;

    Tracing the design onto the carving blank with graphite paper and sawing out the rough shape.

    17 by Mike Allen, on Flickr



    18 by Mike Allen, on Flickr


    Layout for shaping the upper surface – it’s slopes from the high spot where dot/circle is down to the limit line 1/8" from the bottom of the blank. I do most of the shaping with rasps, files and sandpaper.

    19 by Mike Allen, on Flickr

    With shaping completed I redraw the layout lines and incise the lines that divide the convex and concave shape lobes. V- Tool establishes the line on the outer perimeter and a sharp knife for the narrower lines at the back of the shell.

    20 by Mike Allen, on Flickr

    21 by Mike Allen, on Flickr


    With the lobes divided, next step is shaping the upper surface of the convex lobes with a 3 – 5 sweep gouge held upside down.

    22 by Mike Allen, on Flickr

    Here’s a picture with every other, convex shape lobes completed, before starting on the shaping for the concave lobes.

    23 by Mike Allen, on Flickr

    Here’s the completed shell; for me the concave lobes are fairly straightforward and easy to shape. Getting the convex lobes a little more delicate. Finally, the toughest part IMHO is keeping the narrow dividing lines at the back of the shell, which are closely spaced together, from chipping out.

    24 by Mike Allen, on Flickr

    I’m not very good picture of the finished shell screwed to the front of the chest.

    25 by Mike Allen, on Flickr

  3. #3
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    And some also not very good pictures of the completed chest.

    28 (2) by Mike Allen, on Flickr


    29 by Mike Allen, on Flickr


    31 by Mike Allen, on Flickr

    This is the 3rd time I built this design in different sizes and I’m not sure I would do it again – the Coopered, curved top is time-consuming to glue up and shape/surface because you can’t hold it securely on the benchtop without jigs. Also getting the dovetail top and bottom rails that surround the chest lined up so the simple but joint joining the vertical Stiles of the slides to the front/back all coordinated so everything goes together so that it fits, is also difficult for me to visualize in my mind’s eye and therefore problematic. A simpler, more traditional sort of chest construction is for me a lot easier and more fun to build.

    Thanks for looking,

    All the best, Mike

  4. #4
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    Holy expletive, Mike! Very nicely done; design, materials, finish, craftsmanship and attention to detail. Impressive piece without being overbearing.
    BTW-Great build presentation.

    Thanks for sharing.
    Last edited by Bill McNiel; 12-12-2017 at 9:10 PM.

  5. #5
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    Gorgeous! Love all the details in the chest and the details you included with your posts.

  6. #6
    Looks more like a retirement gift for an admiral who saved Western civilization ! But the design might get pirated.

  7. #7
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    Now that's just plain cool. Beautiful work as always, Mike.

  8. #8
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    Beautifully done Mike!
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  9. #9
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    Fabulous work Mike! (And the flowers were a nice touch!)

    How did you capture the bottoms of the trays? Were they grooved or simply rabbeted? I'm making some small trays for a jewelry box and will almost certainly just rabbet them.

    Best,
    Chris
    "You can observe a lot just by watching."
    --Yogi Berra

  10. #10
    Mike,
    Beautiful!
    ken

  11. #11
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    Mike,
    Your having way to much fun. The coopered top, carvings, inlays and design are truly inspirational. Thanks for taking the time to share your build. BTW the flower arrangements look great and your tenon saw in the second picture did not go unnoticed, beautiful saw. Hope you and your neighbors are staying safe from the fires.
    Chet

  12. #12
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    Absolutely amazing. Your skill always impresses. What a wonderful present.

  13. #13
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    Amazing work! I love that miter saw, by the way. Also the shells are well done, and I will tell you in advance I am going to pirate that shell handle idea.

    Overall, I give this two thumbs... arrrr... make that one thumb and one hook up!

  14. #14
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    Absolutely stunning work, Mike. I would say I would pirate it as well, but truth be told, there are just too many firsts- coopered top, carvings, marquetry, string inlay- for me to do in just one project. Maybe someday!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Charles View Post
    Fabulous work Mike! (And the flowers were a nice touch!)

    How did you capture the bottoms of the trays? Were they grooved or simply rabbeted? I'm making some small trays for a jewelry box and will almost certainly just rabbet them.

    Best,
    Chris
    __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ________________

    Hi Chris,


    Because the trays are relatively shallow I think around 3 inches tall, I wanted to keep the bottom to maintain as much of the vertical tray space as possible. I used a LV rabbit plane (one of my favorite tools) to plow quarter-inch rabbits on the bottom of all 4 sides. Unfortunately this results in a gap when the rabbit isn't completely covered by the half pin. I say the off cuts from the dovetails to glue in plugs to cover the gaps. Frankly, I'm sure there's a better way to do this that doesn't require a post glue up fix. Unfortunately despite all the dovetail boxes I've built over the years – I have no idea how to do that. I welcome any advice or suggestions?


    Because these trays are relatively narrow (see I think probably 4 inches wide), I'm not as worried about the expansion of the solid wood bottom is I probably should be.


    A lot of the trays/drawers I make are relatively small, which feeds my likely delusion that expansion of solid wood bottom should be catastrophic. Frankly, these issues are one of the reasons why building larger drawers, such as those for a full size dresser/chest are IMHO The a lot easier.


    Best, Mike

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