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Thread: Wood recommendation

  1. #1

    Wood recommendation

    I am a novice needing a wood recommendation... I put it in the finish section since it is really about what will take a dark stain finish the best to give the look we want.

    I am building built in cabinets for both sides of our fireplace. The cabinets are cream color with java glaze highlights. To go along with that, I want to glue up a face grain counter top for both side base cabs for the upper open shelf to sit on... and a mantel shelf... not rustic looking. more of a clean look... box shelf with upper and lower trim. I want the counter and mantel to be dark stained and not a very harsh grain.

    I was going to use maple, but not sure how well it will take dark stain. Can you recommend a wood for the top and mantel shelf?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    I’d start with a dark wood. If you start with a light wood, any scratches in service will be more obvious. In my area, the least-expensive dark woods are sapele and khaya (aka African mahogany).

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    What Jamie said, but I'd consider walnut, too.

    John

  4. #4
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    Since a component of your question essentially revolves around coloring, I'll also note that what species you choose will also affect what you use to color it. You mentioned maple in your post (and I agree with the others that if you want dark, start dark) and the nature of maple doesn't lend itself to using a pigment based stain like you'd find at the home center because of the extremely fine pore structure. You'd need a dye for that for best results. For open grain species, pigment stains can work and a combination of pigments and dye can also work...it really depends upon the effect you want to arrive at. Coloring wood is an art form..."ideally" if you can find a species that doesn't need to be colored, you'll be ahead of the game and have much less work to do.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
    Thank you! I found a place an hour from me that stocks hardwoods... I am leaning toward African Mahogany. I have been using General Finishes products... I tried Java Gel stain on some Maple a while back and it lead to my initial question above... not the finish we were looking for. General recommends their regular water based wood stain on woods that absorb stain well like Mahogany. I am leaning towards the Brown Mahogany shade. And I assume I should not need their Pre-stain Conditioner to avoid blotchyness with Mahogany? Has anyone used this combination? Is this a good plan? Will High Performance Satin work well over this? I know I shoudl not go above 150 grit on raw wood before stain... do I need any pre-stain treatment for raising the grain? Regular sanding with 320-400 after stain and between clear coats? Thanks!

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Scozzafava View Post
    .. I am leaning toward African Mahogany.
    I doubt that leaning toward it ...or putting a load of concrete blocks on it will help flatten it . I hate that stuff. The waste of time and material easily eats up any savings gained from depriving yourself of real mahogany.
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 12-18-2017 at 8:27 PM. Reason: fixed quote tagging

  7. #7
    I went to local shop and I think we have narrowed it down to cherry or real mahogany. They only carry cherry in 4/4. They said they do most all face grain desk tops in 4/4 instead of 6/4. My base cab is 48" with face frame and center front support as well as rear panel and cleat in back. They said as long as I install it right away and not let it sit in garage for a few months, it will be fine. Mahogany I can get in either 4/4 or 6/4. Would 6/4 be a better solution at this span?

    Assuming mahogany or cherry, and General Finishes water based wood stain, will I need any pre-stain treatment for raising grain? Or conditioner? Or is my best path just sand to 150, stain, and then 3 coats of High Performance satin with sanding (400) at that point?

  8. #8
    The 4/4 is pretty standard for top and is "enough". Since the thicker stuff is more expensive per board foot it is often a little better. More hard heart wood. But the difference is mainly only noticed by the builder, and pretty small after finishing. For something that would be used outside the 6/4 would ,usually be a little better.

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    4/4 will be fine. Real mahogany or cherry? Mahogany every time as it's much easier to finish well. But I'd consider Sapele. Where I live, I can buy any thickness for $5.50/BF. Genuine mahogany is likely double that. You can stain/dye mahogany and Sapele and color you want, even very dark, but if I wanted a dark finish I'd start with walnut.

    Cherry loves to blotch. I would not consider it for a dye or stain finish unless you can spray. Whatever you pick, if you plan to use a WB dye or stain, yes, pre-raise the grain.

    John

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