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Thread: It's This One Again: Recommended Finish Table Saw Blade?

  1. #16
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    Clay, a lot of good information above, but perhaps a bit confusing as to what to choose. I would suggest using Glenn's guideline ("My standard compliment is a 24 or 30 tooth rip, a 40 or 50 tooth general purpose and a 60 or 80 tooth crosscut.") as a basis for choosing, based on the extent/application of your woodworking and purchase whatever your budget allows. Don't forget to use the riving knife or splitter when rip sawing.
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  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Al Launier View Post
    Clay, a lot of good information above, but perhaps a bit confusing as to what to choose. I would suggest using Glenn's guideline ("My standard compliment is a 24 or 30 tooth rip, a 40 or 50 tooth general purpose and a 60 or 80 tooth crosscut.") as a basis for choosing, based on the extent/application of your woodworking and purchase whatever your budget allows. Don't forget to use the riving knife or splitter when rip sawing.
    I agree completely. YOu don't have to spend $200 to get quality cuts, but there are blades out there in that price range. My preference for my level of woodworking is to use Freud Blades. I've never been disappointed.

    One word of warning, no matter what blade you are using it will give poor performance if your saw is not well aligned. Poor cut quality with a new blade is usually a saw alignment issue not a blade problem.
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  3. #18
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    I've been extremely impressed with the Leuco blades I purchased a few months back. I have a rip and a crosscut, and the rip crosscuts so well, it has been the blade in use for everything!

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  4. #19
    If you are looking for a one and done solution you can't beat the Freud fusion for bang for the buck. I have never been disappointed with a Freud blade and the fusion is no exception.

    James

  5. #20
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    A couple of points worth noting:

    - No saw blade will replace a jointer, because the saw doesn't address flattening the face, only an edge. A flat reference face is the key to a uniform adjacent edge, which is the key to a glue ready edge.

    - Many saw blades are a capable of a glue ready edge, but none will produce a finish ready edge.

    - If all else is equal, more teeth tends to equate to a cleaner cut, but with more resistance, more heat, more chance of burning. If all else is equal, fewer teeth tends to equate to a faster cut, with less resistance, less burning, but a rougher finish. Neither extreme or parameter is “better” in all situations…they’re just better suited for different applications. More

    - General purpose blades are good at many tasks, but fall short in the extremes of thicker ripping, and finer crosscuts and ply cuts. A good 60T to 80T blade will simply leave a cleaner cut, but with increased chance of burning.

    - Blade choice is very proprietary to your saw, what you cut, and your skills. What works well for others may not be necessarily be the optimum choice for your situation.

    - The saw blade is only one component of a more complex cutting system and sequence of events that occurs during cutting. A great blade won't cure the ills of a poorly tuned saw, or twisted wood.

    - The better brands I tend to recommend are Infinity, Ridge Carbide, Forrest, Freud Industrial, CMT Industrial, Amana, and Tenryu.
    Last edited by scott spencer; 12-15-2017 at 12:25 PM.
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  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott spencer View Post

    - No saw blade will replace a jointer, because the saw doesn't address flattening the face, only an edge. A flat reference face is the key to a uniform adjacent edge, which is the key to a glue ready edge.
    This is absolutely true for folks using traditional cabinet saws and running boards along a fence with their hands. However, folks with Euro type sliders can have the advantage of a cut line that's perfectly straight and perpendicular to the faces as long as the material is flattened and thicknessed prior to ripping them clamped down to the wagon. I never edge joint because I don't have to with that setup. (Of course, having a sharp blade is also important relative to the quality of the cut)
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  7. #22
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    I bought a 10" Forest Woodworker II at least 10 years ago, had it sharpened once by Forest and I am completely happy with it.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by lowell holmes View Post
    I bought a 10" Forest Woodworker II at least 10 years ago, had it sharpened once by Forest and I am completely happy with it.
    My experience has been positive and mine (the 10" versions) have been sharpened multiple times. I have two of the 10" 40T and one 10" 20T ripping blade. As I noted earlier, I recently purchased the first 12" 48T WW-II based on my experience with the 10" versions. They are all exactly the same kerf width, too, which makes them interchangeable without re-adjusting my saw.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #24
    Check out the Delta 7657 from Cripe Distributing. Costs about $20 plus shipping. Probably the best bang for the buck in 10" 40 tooth blades.

  10. #25
    The Amana A.G.E. 60 tooth AT blade is what I use for almost everything. Rip, crosscut, solid, plywood, I do it all with this blade.

    Of course if I start using thicker stock I'll swap over to a rip blade.

  11. #26
    When I first started out, with a brand new SS, I was running freud glue line rip, cabinetmakers crosscut, and freud ultimate plywood blade. They are all fine blades.

    But...all my face frame material gets edge planed to remove sawmarks and get to final width, so I have started to prefer the infinity rip blade. Doesnt polish the edge as much as the freud, but it's a moot point.

    The infinity plywood blade produces just as clean a cut as the freud equivalent as well.

    In the past few months I have found myself becoming more partial to infinity...they at least seem to stay sharp just a little longer than the freud.

    And for a dado stack, the infinity dadonator is the best dado package to ever run in my saw...this is where I'm most happy.

    In short, freud makes great blades...but IMHO, infinity edges them out, and cost slightly less to boot.

  12. #27
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  13. #28
    I did notice that the original poster hasn't logged on since June.

    But since I just recently ran a $125 Forrest blade right through my Incra miter gauge's aluminum fence**, I appreciate the tip on Infinity blades. Thanks Justin.

    **No matter what you might read on the web, a Woodworker II does NOT survive significant contact with an aluminum extrusion. My "little" screw up with not checking the fence's position before the cut broke or damaged 10 teeth.
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  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frederick Skelly View Post
    I did notice that the original poster hasn't logged on since June.

    But since I just recently ran a $125 Forrest blade right through my Incra miter gauge's aluminum fence**, I appreciate the tip on Infinity blades. Thanks Justin.

    **No matter what you might read on the web, a Woodworker II does NOT survive significant contact with an aluminum extrusion. My "little" screw up with not checking the fence's position before the cut broke or damaged 10 teeth.
    I occasionally cut Aluminum(intentionally) on the table saw without issue. It is normally with a Delta/DeWalt 7657 though

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frederick Skelly View Post
    I did notice that the original poster hasn't logged on since June.

    But since I just recently ran a $125 Forrest blade right through my Incra miter gauge's aluminum fence**, I appreciate the tip on Infinity blades. Thanks Justin.

    **No matter what you might read on the web, a Woodworker II does NOT survive significant contact with an aluminum extrusion. My "little" screw up with not checking the fence's position before the cut broke or damaged 10 teeth.
    I've accidentally cut into my Incra miter gauge twice with a Forrest blade with no damage to the blade.

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