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Thread: Ripping on a slider

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Ripping on a slider

    As a relatively newbe to sliders I followed with interest the Sliding Table Saw thread. At this point I am sticking with conventional ripping using the rip fence (I did replace the Hammer fence with a Delta Unifence). I have a 49" slider.

    I cannot see how you are going to rip consistent widths with the slider as well as with a rip fence. I know about the Best attachment but it is $500. For those of you that advocate ripping with the slider how are you doing it???
    Have you the Best attachment or do you have another method?

    Thanks for the help.

    Dan

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    West Lafayette, IN
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    Don’t rip on sliders, they’re good saws!

    Sorry, had to do it!

  3. #3
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    The only ripping I do on my slider is straight lining. All other ripping is done conventionally using the rip fence.
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  4. #4
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    I have been ripping on my slider using the sliding wagon with hold-downs in the slots. I rigged up a jig using plywood with some toggle clamps attached to hold the board, and just push the slider through the blade. I also use the edging 'shoe' that is usually provided with new sliders, but only for rough cutting or removing a crooked edge.
    Ripping using the rip fence on a slider is cumbersome at best, since you have to reach over the sliding wagon to hold the board against the fence.
    That is why I also have a conventional table saw in my shop, used mainly for ripping and molding cuts.

  5. #5
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    I only do narrower rips using the fence in most cases. Otherwise, I parallel rip using the wagon, using a Fritz and Franz jig or other jig. In that manner, with the workpiece clamped down, I get glue-line ready edges and pretty much never edge joint at the J/P. It's been about, oh, two years since I last edge jointed something if my memory serves correctly. Yes, using a jig slows things down a little, but I consider that an advantage since it controls pace and reduces errors and safety issues. And again, I'm cutting out that extra jointing step.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #6
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    Jim,
    I like the sound of getting glue ready edges and the increased safety but when ripping multiple boards how do you get consistently parallel and equal width boards?
    Dan

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    With a short stroke slider, I do much, maybe most ripping using the fence. My longer sliders use the slider methods but anything longer than the crosscut of the slider are just easier for me to use the traditional fence. In my world, the short sliders can be locked flush with the fixed table so the table and under carriage don't hinder the traditional rip/ Dave

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Wilkins View Post
    Ripping using the rip fence on a slider is cumbersome at best, since you have to reach over the sliding wagon to hold the board against the fence.
    What's nice about the 49" Hammer is that the slider locks into position flush with the in-feed side of the table....ergonomically the same as on a traditional TS. It's for that reason I chose the K3 over the SC2.
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Greenville, SC
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    I think I'm starting to see some light. So Mike's response is because he must have a longer slider than 49"??
    "Ripping using the rip fence on a slider is cumbersome at best, since you have to reach over the sliding wagon to hold the board against the fence."

    I still don't see how you would get parallel edges and consistent widths equal to ripping with the fence. With the Best attachment is the uncut board on the right of the blade? The "good" is between the blade and the F&F or Best jig?

    Dan

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan T Jones View Post

    I still don't see how you would get parallel edges and consistent widths equal to ripping with the fence. With the Best attachment is the uncut board on the right of the blade? The "good" is between the blade and the F&F or Best jig?

    Dan
    Look for the Extreme Woodworker series of Ripping on a Slider videos on Youtube. Three or four videos with great info. I particularly liked his using the rip fence as a stop and the wagon for holding his stock.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan T Jones View Post
    Jim,
    I like the sound of getting glue ready edges and the increased safety but when ripping multiple boards how do you get consistently parallel and equal width boards?
    Dan
    You straight-line rip one side of the boards and then you support the board with a parallel jig or "Fritz and Franz" jig on both ends to rip them all exactly the same width. The boards must be flat and of even thickness, obviously, for this to work and have that edge perfectly perpendicular to both faces.

    One other nice advantage of this...your first straight-line rip doesn't have to be related to the original sawn edge of the board. You can adjust that first line to manage grain direction and end up with optimized boards. Little things like this can take a project to "the next level" visually.

    And I agree you should watch the videos that Dave mentions...here's a link for your convenience to the Extreme Woodworker's YouTube Page:

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmE...hepnFlyXFkWwsQ
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  12. #12
    Different ripping jobs will require different methods. If you're making furniture and doing a few pieces at a time then any of the methods mentioned above will work and the ability of sliders to do easy straight line rips or tapers is very valuable. If you need to rip 150 rails and stiles for a kitchen on the other hand, using the carriage or jigs is far from ideal. If I had a slider and found myself needing to do the latter with any kind of regularity, I'd probably invest in a power feeder which would make things less awkward and safer when using the rip fence.

  13. #13
    Pull the rip fence to clear the blade, use the "Fritz and Franz" jig, you will get consistent ripping width using the slider, it is safer and faster. This technique is clearly demonstrated in the original F&F video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=DqzVglze9Nk .

    Since the rip fence is a little toe out, you will want to do something like what David Best described in this https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidp...57686155149385 post.

    James

  14. #14
    david you said you can lock the slider so it doesnt inhibit ripping on the fence. is it not more that the small sliders simply dont have the bulky slider support extending out back. I never stood behind one large slider that felt comfortable to me after a lifetime of ripping on cabinet saws The small slider ill get up soon standing behind it the slider rides on a bar, it doesnt extend out far at all, while I havent ripped on it yet its not set up seemed that it will be good for ripping from the fence. This one an SCM I noticed another model of their small slider is different may or may not extend out a bit more but certainly not like the big ones. Already thought if it is as good as it seems then id keep this when I get a full size.

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by scott vroom View Post
    What's nice about the 49" Hammer is that the slider locks into position flush with the in-feed side of the table....ergonomically the same as on a traditional TS. It's for that reason I chose the K3 over the SC2.
    I noticed that on my SC2. However, there is a gib under the slider that can be moved so the main part of the slider stops flush with the in-feed side of the table. It doesn't prevent the slider from moving in the other direction, but I haven't found this to be a problem when pushing stock through the blade.

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