Proper jointing technique with Hammer A3-31 / Euro guard?

[John Sayen]

Hi all,

I've done quite a few searches and looked on youtube but am still having issues with my a3-31 and euro guard.

I thought when jointing that it was best to apply pressure on the outfeed table and basic forward motion from the rear.

With the euroguard the board passes below the guard, which means that the forward push block is removed temporarily (and the pressure is too) to move to the outfeed table as the board passes over the cutter head.

This results in some weird snipe, or bumps/ridges the width of the board near.

I have wasted plenty of material trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong. It's time to ask for help.

Anyone have a good video and or set of instructions that I can use to joint safely and avoid this situation?

Thank you.

[Prashun Patel]

You should switch to pressure on the outfeed side as soon as you get enough over the head. Any subsequent pressure on the infeed side should be mostly forward, not downward.

[Dan Friedrichs]

You're using push blocks? For some reason, the euro guard makes me not want to use push blocks. The "slide your hand over the top of the guard" technique is shown here, and that's always worked well for me...

[Philipp Jaindl]

<p>
I was taught to only apply pressure on the outfeed side as soon as theres enough workpiece to grab onto, if possible only grip and move the workpiece forward on this side, and not apply any pressure at all on the infeed side. Sometimes you do have to push on the infeed side regardless, i try to only apply the pressure forwards not downwards in that case.</p>
<p>
I&#39;m not the most experienced guy out there but thats what my masters taught me.&nbsp;</p>

[Jim Becker]

I don't use push blocks. What I like about the Euro guard is that as the board first passed under the guard my forward (left) hand can easily slide over the top of the guard and provide immediate support on the outfeed side. And Phillip is correct...minimal downward pressure should be used as you want the knives to slice off the "high spots" so you actually flatten the board.

[Andrew Hughes]

I also don't use those plastic push pads. Face jointing for me is passing the wood across the head very little down pressure is need unless I'm taking a 1/8 or more cut. I have bench hook looking thing that hook the end of the board to move thing along.
Sharp knives and coplaner flat tables are a must.

[Scott DelPorte]

I have the a3 41a, which is just a planer, not the combo, with their spiral cutting head. For face jointing, the best results for me seem to come from using no down pressure at all. It almost seems like the cutter head is slightly pulling the board down onto the tables. I push the boards with a push stick from the rear being careful not to push downward on the end, especially as it passes over the cutting head.

[John Sayen]

Thanks all - will be headed back to the shop today to try the new techniques. Still learning here and figured I was doing something severely wrong.

[Mick Simon]

Good advice here. I would only add to keep your tables waxed well so that very little downward force is needed.

Love my A3-41!

[Curt Harms]

I have a Jet J/P not a Hammer but the Jet has a Euro style guard like the Hammer. I leave the guard about 1/2" from the fence and use a skinny 'push shoe' cut from 3/8" plywood. The shoe passes between the fence and guard so there's no need to pause and reset. As soon as there's enough on the outfeed side to push down on I do that and push horizontally with the push shoe. My fingers stay well clear of the cutterhead and nearly all the down pressure is on the outfeed table.

[Jim Becker]

Curt, based on the initial post, the OP was concerned about face planing/flattening, but for edges, your method is the correct way to use the bridge guard relative to the fence.

[John Sayen]

I'm happy to report that by utilizing the methods suggested here (horizontal forward motion only on the infeed side, downward pressure on the outfeed) that I was able overcome the issues I was having with face jointing.

I did notice during my trials that if I jointed in one direction a large number of times that I would end up with one end of the board thicker than the other - not sure if that was an anomaly or if I was doing something yet again incorrectly.

Thanks again for all of the help!

[Dan Friedrichs]

I did notice during my trials that if I jointed in one direction a large number of times that I would end up with one end of the board thicker than the other - not sure if that was an anomaly or if I was doing something yet again incorrectly.

It's possible this is a set-up issue (the jointer tables may not be perfectly co-planer, which would result in a taper), but since you wouldn't usually run a board over the jointer a large number of times, it's probably not worth worrying about.

[Curt Harms]

Curt, based on the initial post, the OP was concerned about face planing/flattening, but for edges, your method is the correct way to use the bridge guard relative to the fence.

This works for face flattening too. Gotta leave room for the push shoe to pass over the head, it's the only way I've found to push forward without pushing down on the infeed table part.

[Curt Harms]

I'm happy to report that by utilizing the methods suggested here (horizontal forward motion only on the infeed side, downward pressure on the outfeed) that I was able overcome the issues I was having with face jointing.

I did notice during my trials that if I jointed in one direction a large number of times that I would end up with one end of the board thicker than the other - not sure if that was an anomaly or if I was doing something yet again incorrectly.

Thanks again for all of the help!

That's my experience too though it may be set up/technique related. Maybe try a little thicker passes and fewer of them until one side is flat.