wrecked my miter saw

[Brandon Speaks]

So I am going to need some advice on this one.

I had a 1.5 inch dowel that I wanted to cut some short sections off of to make vice handles before turning them on the lathe. To quickly make a nice square cut I went to the miter saw, first three cuts are fine, last one is only taking an inch or so off and the saw catches and throws the wood. Never seen that happen before. Ok fine that was weird but I find another small cut off from earlier and try to trim it (I know not the best idea to repeat but I thought it was a fluke) same thing happens, catches and shoots the piece out like a bullet.

Anyway I did not cut my hand, although it is rather bruised I guess I came out alright.

So later I go to break down a 2x4 and see the fence is way out of alignment. I pull it off and if I lay it flat on my bench it is so bent that when the ends touch the middle is an inch in the air. Apparently before the piece flew at me it hit the fence and bent the heck out of it.

I took it down to my hand tool bench and clamped it flat, I figured that maybe clamping it flat and leaving it for a bit might fix it but I am not optimistic.

Anyway, two questions.

1. What the heck happened that caused that kick back type reaction, can I not cut a dowel on that saw?
2. What is the best way to fix the fence?

[Jim Becker]

When you are doing particularly short cutoffs with the miter saw, it's extremely important that when you complete the cut you do NOT raise the blade until it stops turning. The small cutoff will inadvertently vibrate right into the blade and you'll get the thrown material just as you describe.

Can't help you with number two without seeing photos of the situation.

[Eric Schmid]

The short answer is the work piece or cut off likely rotated, causing the kick back. If you’re not using sub fences, the gap between the fences may be allowing the wood to rotate toward the opening. Not holding the workpiece securely and with confidence can lead to the piece moving. If your hands are uncomfortably close to the blade it’s difficult to hold it with confidence. Finally, don’t lift the blade before it’s through the cut and stops.

There are safer ways to cut round stock.

If it makes you feel any better, I broke one fence clean in half making a cut I knew better than to attempt.

[Brandon Speaks]

Ok makes sense, I think I understand what happened.

Big next question is how do I fix the fence? Its a kobalt so I dont think I can just buy one, not in proportion to the price of the tool anyway.

I suppose if clamping flat lead to still having a recess I can use a shim on the end and clamp the middle and get it to work?

[Bill Orbine]

You need zero clearance fence. Clamp or screw a board to your saw fence. Set your saw angle and make the cut into the fence. There you have a zero clearance fence. Of course, you'll have to rectify the fence every time you change the angle.

Still..... Cutting something round and very short has dangers even though you have zero clearance fence.

[glenn bradley]

Any off cut not supported by the fence, so really anything short, can become a projectile. People just get away with so often they stop thinking it is dangerous. As mentioned, a sac-fence is your answer. Clamping stock on both sides of the cut is even better. Here's a shot with the left hand side in place.

Stop Block Side.jpg

[Phil Mueller]

Ok Brandon, not to be a smart aleck, but given your new interest in hand tools, a nice little hand saw would have done the trick without a lot of drama (sorry, couldn’t resist ).

[Brandon Speaks]

Ok Brandon, not to be a smart aleck, but given your new interest in hand tools, a nice little hand saw would have done the trick without a lot of drama (sorry, couldn’t resist ).

I know right! Its actually even funnier than that. I was in my basement shop practicing some angled cuts getting ready to build a saw bench (the type of cut that works well on a miter saw ) and went to the garage to grab a coke. I see a dowel that I forgot I had and think great I can use that for the vice handles and the miter saw happened to be the first thing I passed on the way to the lathe that was capable (or so I thought) of cutting it. Two more steps and I would have been at the band saw and 3 more steps and I would have passed a had saw, either of which would have turned out better.

To make this comedy of errors even more amusing after putting the fist piece in the late I immediately got a catch and managed to launch another projectile. I guess my power tools are jealous of how much I am enjoying my hand planes .

Anyway I did not realize the dangers of short cut offs or round stock in the miter saw. I am glad that I got the lesson with only a bruise and sore hand and still have all my fingers. After the next cup of coffee I will go see if my clamp job fixed the fence, although I doubt I get it perfectly square. I suppose some shims and a board could rectify that and give me a zero clearance sac fence in the process.

[Ted Phillips]

Not to pile on, but I got rid of my mitre saw for a similar reason - I didn't trust myself using it any longer. I sold it and used the funds to purchase a nice Nobex Proman mitre saw and a couple of other hand saws. Not a luddite, just someone who relishes a little peace and quiet in the shop.

TedP

454005d.jpg

[David Eisenhauer]

The deeper you dive into hand tools, the more you begin to realize that often it is just quicker/easier/safer to just grab a hand tool and do it without worrying about jigs/guides/hold downs/etc. Quieter and no dust also.

[Jim Becker]

Anyway I did not realize the dangers of short cut offs or round stock in the miter saw.

Honestly, it's not just round stock. Squares and rectangles will behave exactly the same way if the blade is lifted before it stops turning and the piece vibrates into the spinning cutter. DAMHIKT!!!

[Lee Schierer]

Honestly, it's not just round stock. Squares and rectangles will behave exactly the same way if the blade is lifted before it stops turning and the piece vibrates into the spinning cutter. DAMHIKT!!!

If anything round stock is much worse, because it will want to spin in your hand as the blade comes in contact with the top of the dowel. Short pieces aslo want to rotate and jam between the blade and the open part of the fence usually accompanied by a really loud noise.

[Jim Becker]

I don't disagree, Lee...round stock poses greater risk for the reasons you mentioned. (Just cut some dowel two days ago and really clamped down on it for those same reasons) But it's also true that "short anything" on a miter saw can pose risk of material being thrown, so stopping that blade before disengaging from the material can really help reduce that from happening.

[James Pallas]

Brandon, Another caution for you as you mentioned round stock and passing the band saw. Don't cut round stock or anything that will end up unsupported on the trailing edge or you may end up with another surprise. The band saw blade will catch the trailing edge and throw the piece also. Hand saw or cradle for the band saw.
Jim

[Harry Hagan]

Ok makes sense, I think I understand what happened.

Big next question is how do I fix the fence? Its a kobalt so I dont think I can just buy one, not in proportion to the price of the tool anyway.

I suppose if clamping flat lead to still having a recess I can use a shim on the end and clamp the middle and get it to work?

It'll probably spring back from being compressed flat so that might be necessary. You might also try heating the bent area to relax the metal while it's compressed on a flat surface before shimming and if necessary while shimming.