Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Cabinet to Wall Question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    N/A
    Posts
    3,628

    Cabinet to Wall Question

    I'm planning a bookcase for our living room. It would replace a rail along the stairs down to the foyer. The end of the case will but up to a sheetrock wall and the back of the case will be visible from the stairs.

    I'm planning two face frames, one with panels for the back. The frames are essentially separated by the ends. My question concerns the end abutting the wall and providing space to scribe the face frames. Should I make this end same thickness as the opposite end and just move it in from the end of face frames or should I make it out of thinner material? Although I haven't measured it yet, I wouldn't expect to need even 1/4" of scribing room. I'm intending to make the ends of oak veneered MDF or oak plywood.

    Any thoughts?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,859
    I "think" you are talking about the carcass "end"...if I am wrong, sorry. But for structural considerations, especially if you have movable shelfs, I'd leave it made of the same thickness material as everything else. If you inset it slightly so you can scribe both the face frames AND the top, you should end up with a perfect fit to the wall.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    N/A
    Posts
    3,628
    You are correct and that was what I was thinking. It would make life easier from a materials standpoint. There would be a divider down the middle which will mean that one set of shelves is slightly shorter than the other but I have a pretty easy time of making boards shorter.

    Thanks Jim.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    218
    An alternative--make the face frame (before scribing) wider on that side, leaving all other dimensions identical. In fact, I'd rabbet the back of the faceframe "overhang", and scribe it so that at its narrowest it is the same width as the other side, rather than at its widest. This will also make any curve less noticable. A face frame that varies from 2"-2.25" on one side, and constant 2" on the other will be less noticable than one that varies from 1.75" to 2", and might even be less noticable (the curve) than one that varies from 1-7/8" to 2-1/8".

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    N/A
    Posts
    3,628
    Alex, that is a good suggestion. Thanks.

Similar Threads

  1. Question about cabinet makers turnscrews
    By John Dingman in forum Neanderthal Haven
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 02-11-2005, 12:10 PM
  2. Gun Cabinet Question
    By Lamar Horton in forum Design Forum
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 12-22-2004, 6:22 PM
  3. Concrete block wall anchor question
    By Mark Patoka in forum Off Topic Forum
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 12-13-2004, 9:14 AM
  4. Wall Cabinet Question
    By Peter Stahl in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 11-19-2004, 7:31 PM
  5. Flush mount cabinet door fit question...
    By David Rose in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 07-29-2003, 12:52 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •