Rockler Dovetail Jig

[Michael Fross]

Hello everyone,

I'm in the market for a dovetail jig and have been looking at the PC 4212, but the rockler one looks pretty good.

There is a sale going on right now at Rockler where their dovetail jig and through dovetail template is only $99. The PC is $137.

Here's a link to the Rockler jig
Here's a link to the Porter Cable jig

So, first off, for those interested in the Rockler, this is a pretty good price.

Secondly, for those like me who are still doing the research, does anyone have any experience with the Rockler and how it compares to the PC?

Many thanks,

Michael

[Tim Armstrong]

Michael - I've got the PC version. Got it earlier this year as a gift from LOML. It's a really solid piece of gear if you ask me and I'm happy with it. If I remember correctly, the PC, while more expensive, comes with one more dovetail template. It's got the templates for both half-blind and through dovetails. So, in the long run it may be less $s. It's the only dovetail jig I've ever had, but I like it.

[Vaughn McMillan]

I bought the Rockler jig a few months ago (similar sale, so I got both templates and the whole package was about $100) and it works well for me so far, although I've only done half blind dovetails at this point. Since this is the one and only DT jig I've used, I can't give you a comparison between the PC and the Rockler, but I can say I've not been disappointed with the Rockler jig. It seems to be built well, and it delivers what they promise.

Like you, I was looking at the PC jig, but I didn't see a lot of difference between the two. (I could have missed something...it's happened before. ) Since I'm not anticipating high-volume dovetail work (like rebuilding the kitchen cabinets, or making a dresser), I figured the lower end of the price spectrum would suffice for me, and it has so far.

- Vaughn

[Michael Fross]

Like you, I was looking at the PC jig, but I didn't see a lot of difference between the two. (I could have missed something...it's happened before. ) Since I'm not anticipating high-volume dovetail work (like rebuilding the kitchen cabinets, or making a dresser), I figured the lower end of the price spectrum would suffice for me, and it has so far.

Funny you mention dresser as that's just what I am going to use it for. I'll soon be building a dresser / chest of drawers and thought I should probably take advantage of some of the holiday sales.

Thanks for your thoughts Tim / Vaughn. I suppose I probably won't find many folks who have used both, but here's hopin'

Michael

[Bernie Weishapl]

I didn't look real close but do you have to buy the extra templates to cut box joints with the Rockler? I know the box joint template comes with the PC. The 4212 cuts through dovetails, box joints, half-blind dovetails, rabbeted half-blind dovetails, and dovetail dadoes. I also like the idea of the bit guage for the depth of the bit.

[fred woltersdorf]

i just recently bought the pc4212 from amazon.i don't have it yet,but i made my decision after seeing it in person and watching the videos on the pc web site.with the pc you can take the templates off, attach them to a piece of wood and do a blanket chest .there is no limitations as far as length.check out this link
http://www.porter-cable.com/jigs/

[Wes Bischel]

Micheal,

The Rockler jig looks a lot like the HF jig - though I'm sure there are some differences. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34102 The HF unit is the same (or very similar) to the ShopFox unit:
http://www.shopfoxtools.com/dovetail.aspx So there may be a family similarity with the Rockler unit.

Like I said, I'm not sure if the Rockler jig is the same, but they all work in a similar fashion. I have used the HF jig for a number of drawer sets and after it is set-up, the fixture works like a charm.

I couldn't justify the cost of the PC unit for my needs, but for $29.99 (on sale) the HF unit fit the bill.

FWIW, Wes

[Javier Gonzalez]

The Rockler jig looks identical to one I bought a couple years ago which was sold
under the Reliant brand.I did my kitchen cabinet drawers with them. I'd recommend
going with the PC. I tested one at Woodcraft and it's alot sturdier. The plastic
template on the Reliant / Rockler tended to flex too much if you were'nt carefull.
If you buy the optional aluminum template you'd be paying another 22 bucks
and would still have a flimsier jig.

[Mike Henderson]

I bought the Rockler jig, both the half blind and the full jig, but I find I don't really use it. The problem is that it's a fixed spacing jig. This means that when you want to do dovetails in a drawer (or whatever) you have to size the drawer to the dovetails, rather than making the dovetails fit the size of drawer you want to build. Otherwise you come out with odd spacing on one end.
If you're going to build fine furniture, the best thing is to make the dovetails by hand. They're not that difficult to do and you can space them however you like. And once you get good at it, you can do fancy dovetails with very small pins. If you're only doing a couple of drawers, it's almost quicker to do them by hand.
So if anyone in the southern California area is thinking of buying a Rockler Dovetail jig, send me a note and I'll make you an exceptional deal.

Mike

[Lee Schierer]

I have the Rockler jig and it was an improvement over the Craftsman jig I had be fore. The jig takes a little trial and error the first time you use it to get it set up right. Their directions aren't the best I've ever read, but once you try setting it up, you'll get the hang of it. I don't recommend using a tall router with this Jig. I tried using my Freud FT2000 and I got poor results because the routher tips rather easily. I got better dovetails using my craftsman router.

I also found that when using narrow boards it pays to make a spacer for the oppposite side to get better clamping. I made one with a rare earth magnet for the vertical clamp so the block doesn't fall out when you try to make adjustments.

Mine was mis-assembled. The vertical handle clamped by lifting it up. The vibration caused it to work down or you wouold bump it because it was up in the way and release the board. I was able to turn the clamp over and now th handle locks by pushing it down, so gravity and the fact it is down out of the way keeps it locked.

If you want variable spaced dovetails, this is not the jig for you.

[Guy Baxter]

Michael,

Over the past few years I have bought many Rockler components that looked like a good deal, including their dovetail jig. Several of these components have failed prematurely so as a general rule I no longer buy Rockler’s brand name products. That said, I should also point out that I have had no problem with the D-T jig in the few times I’ve used it.

Good Luck with your purchase.
GB

[Paul Comi]

Michael, I have used the Rockler jig several times over the past couple years and lately don't use it at all. It worked ok for making drawers for my main shop storage unit but now it seems all the projects I would use it for exceed its capacity. I'm seriously considering the Keller jig for making dovetails. The jig is a template with fence that you clamp to your board and rout. There is no limit to how wide the stock is and you can even rout dovetails on curved boards. Its about $125.

[Michael Fross]

Hello everyone,

Thank you for all the great feedback. I've decided on the Porter Cable 4212 Jig. Rockler has a 25% off one item sale tomorrow so I should be able to get it at a decent price.

I'm also getting more into hand tools and have been reading Ian Kirby's dovetail book. So, I'd like to practice making them by hand, but for my dresser/chest of drawers project, I think a jig will be needed.

Thank you again for all the help. I am constantly impressed with the quality and generous nature of the folks at the creek.

Regards,

Michael

[tod evans]

michael, you`ll be very glad you learned to hand cut. you will look at machine cut dovetails in a whole new light. enjoy the quiet. tod