Toy Box

[Jim Hager]

Here is a toy chest that I did for a customer. He came over this afternoon and picked it up to take it home to paint.

Nothing special for sure but nevertheless it is what I did today. The toy box is made of poplar and 1/4" beadboard plywood. I used butt hinges and a friction lid stay to help keep the lid from slamming on those little fingers.

I've got several smaller projects like this to get out before Christmas.

[Peter Pedisich]

Jim,

How are the beadboard panels held in? grooves or held by trim?

I like the box, nice feet. Thanks for sharing.

Pete

[Bob Noles]

Jim,

Your customer may call it a "toy box" but I see a beautiful blanket chest in that picture.

Excellent job and I do hope you will give a few more details if you find time.

[Ron Jones near Indy]

Did you turn the legs or get them from another source? If you didn't turn them, would you mind telling the source? Thanks,
Ron

[Jim Hager]

Jim,

How are the beadboard panels held in? grooves or held by trim?

I like the box, nice feet. Thanks for sharing.

Pete

The box frames are made with a traditional style and rail set with a plywood insert instead of the full 1/4". So the panels are set in a groove just like a flat panel door would be made.

The feet are homemade too.

[Jim Hager]

Did you turn the legs or get them from another source? If you didn't turn them, would you mind telling the source? Thanks,
Ron

I turned them myself, sorry no source available

[Bruce Page]

Very nice Jim. It will definitely outlast the kid!

[Rick de Roque]

Nice. I like the turned legs.
Rick

[Barry O'Mahony]

I don't see it. Is it just me?

[Jim Becker]

I like it...and have something like it on "my list"...assuming I ever get time to work on "my list" again!! LOL!

[George Summers]

Looks good. Why paint, it looks like it would be pretty with a nice finish? If I may offer a suggestion. Whenever they are going to use it for a toy box, I put 3/4" spacers on each front corner and a 3/4" riser under each hinge. These can come off later when the use is changed to a chest. In the mean time they keep little fingers from being mashed. If you have two or more kids playing, one or two can push down the lid hard enough to overcome the friction hinges. This also leaves a air gap should the kid crawl in and the lid closes. I first did this on the chest I made for my grandson.

http://ncwoodworker.net/gallery/show...p?i=1292&c=197

http://ncwoodworker.net/gallery/show...p?i=1293&c=197

http://ncwoodworker.net/gallery/show...p?i=1294&c=197

George

[Jim Hager]

Looks good. Why paint, it looks like it would be pretty with a nice finish? If I may offer a suggestion. Whenever they are going to use it for a toy box, I put 3/4" spacers on each front corner and a 3/4" riser under each hinge. These can come off later when the use is changed to a chest. In the mean time they keep little fingers from being mashed. If you have two or more kids playing, one or two can push down the lid hard enough to overcome the friction hinges. This also leaves a air gap should the kid crawl in and the lid closes. I first did this on the chest I made for my grandson.



George

That is a good idea!! I was working on a little something similar but I forgot to get it done before I assembled the box. Oh well, next time maybe. The customer came up with the design for me.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Nice work Jim!

[Jim Hager]

Jim,

Your customer may call it a "toy box" but I see a beautiful blanket chest in that picture.

Excellent job and I do hope you will give a few more details if you find time.

Bob, The dimensions of the chest are 36" in total length 18" total width, legs 3 1/2", height of top railing is 3 1/2, the box itself is 14" in height, 16 1/2 in width and 34 1/2" in length. I made this one out of poplar and 1/4" beadboard plywood but any kind of material would do. If it were made out of oak or walnut or cherry it would really be nice. I rounded the edges of the top and bottom with a 3/4" radius shaper cutter and mounted the box to the bottom leaving a 1/4" reveal all around. The bottom is screw to the box but not glued to allow for seasonal changes in the wood. The lid is put on with butt hinges mortised into the side of the box and the lid. I used a friction lid stay to keep the lid from slamming shut.

If you need any further information just holler.

[Jeff Sudmeier]

Looks good. Why paint, it looks like it would be pretty with a nice finish? If I may offer a suggestion. Whenever they are going to use it for a toy box, I put 3/4" spacers on each front corner and a 3/4" riser under each hinge. These can come off later when the use is changed to a chest. In the mean time they keep little fingers from being mashed. If you have two or more kids playing, one or two can push down the lid hard enough to overcome the friction hinges. This also leaves a air gap should the kid crawl in and the lid closes. I first did this on the chest I made for my grandson.
George

This is a great idea! I am supposed to be working on a toy box starting in Jan, we will see!