Drawer stops

[Todd Burch]

I need to figure out a drawer stop mechanism for a side-cabinet I'm making.

There are no slides or runners for the drawer - the drawer will simply run on the piece of plywood that makes up the bottom of the drawer box. The drawer itself is Baltic Birch plywood. It will get waxed with lots of parafin on the bottom edges.

This is a face frame application, but where the drawer sits, there is no top rail or bottom rail, just sides stiles. The stiles "overhang" (extend) 1/4" into the opening on each side where the drawer goes. There is no (effective) clearance on the top of the drawer - it fits pretty tight into the opening - 1/4" (maybe less) clearance on top, and about 3/16" to 1/4" clearnance (total - with the box pushed to one side) for the box itself.

What mechanism would you use to ensure the drawer would not be pulled out completely accidentally, yet still allow it to be pulled out 90% or so of its travel? The drawer box is 15 3/4" wide and 10 7/8" deep.

In summary - I need some type of machanism on the sides of the drawer box that I can engage after it is slid in, but disengage for whatever reason I might need to remove the drawer box (like to re-wax).

Any ideas?

Thanks, Todd.

[Martin Shupe]

I need to figure out a drawer stop mechanism for a side-cabinet I'm making.

There are no slides or runners for the drawer - the drawer will simply run on the piece of plywood that makes up the bottom of the drawer box. The drawer itself is Baltic Birch plywood. It will get waxed with lots of parafin on the bottom edges.

This is a face frame application, but where the drawer sits, there is no top rail or bottom rail, just sides stiles. The stiles "overhang" (extend) 1/4" into the opening on each side where the drawer goes. There is no (effective) clearance on the top of the drawer - it fits pretty tight into the opening - 1/4" (maybe less) clearance on top, and about 3/16" to 1/4" clearnance (total - with the box pushed to one side) for the box itself.

What mechanism would you use to ensure the drawer would not be pulled out completely accidentally, yet still allow it to be pulled out 90% or so of its travel? The drawer box is 15 3/4" wide and 10 7/8" deep.

In summary - I need some type of machanism on the sides of the drawer box that I can engage after it is slid in, but disengage for whatever reason I might need to remove the drawer box (like to re-wax).

Any ideas?

Thanks, Todd.

Check the new issue of FWW...there is a nifty idea to use a piece of cord in the back of the cabinet. I am not sure if it is exactly what you want in this case, but I think it is a good idea.

[Eric Apple - Central IN]

Todd,

There are also small clips that attach to the back of the drawer. The clip is placed so that it catches the frame just as the drawer reaches full extension. I would think that something like a small wooden paddle could serve the same purpose. I think Rockler & WW Supply carry items like this.

I really like the cord idea that Martin mentions. Sort of like a window sash cord.

I've also considered using a brass screw thru the side of the drawer. By positioning the screw to catch a stop block attached to either what the drawer rides upon, or the front frame. Then you could remove the screw from inside the drawer to remove the drawer.

I have used a block mounted to a drawer side that engages a fixed block attached to the cabinet frame. Then to remove the drawer, you open it until it catches, then lift up the drawer front and slide it out. This requires enough clearance to allow the drawer to tilt high enough.

Oops forgot one thing.... Don't put the drawer back all the way to the back of the drawer.... Basically by placing the back of the drawer in 2" from the end of the drawer sides, you remove the encouragement to open the drawer further. So even when the drawer is open 100%, there is still a few inches of drawer side holding it within the cabinet. This work just like a modern full extension slide by giving up some drawer volume.

[Greg Wandless]

How about a wooden turn button screwed to the sides at the very back. You can flip up after the drawer is in so that it catches the face frame and rotate it down to get the drawer out.

Greg

[Mac McAtee]

"Any ideas?"

Thanks, Todd.[/QUOTE]

Todd,
On the upper surface of the drawer sides near the back. You cut a small rabbit, mortise or slot, (what ever you want to call it)open on the top of the drawer side. Cut it about 3/4ths across the upper edge of the drawer sides, one or both. Square both ends. Make it about 1" or so long or what ever looks good to you. Then find a nice piece of scrap hardwood that looks good with your cabinet. Make a wedge shape. One end of the wedge sticking out 1/4" beyond the side of the drawer the other end exactly the depth of the rabbit. You want this little wedge shape piece of wood to fit into the rabbit snuggly. You put it in the rabbit with the wider end facing forward or the front of the drawer. When you pull the drawer open the wide end of the wedge shape is sticking out to hit the back of the side face frame or frames. You then drill a small hole in the wedge and into the drawer side, straight down from the top. You can put a wood pin in it so that you can just pull it straight up, to remove it and get the drawer out or your can put a screw in it so you have to unscrew it to get it out and pull the drawer out. You locate this device how ever far back on the drawer side you want it to control how far out you can pull the drawer.

[Ken Frantz]

I have use a spring loaded cabinet door hinge mounted on the back of the drawer on the inside and when you need to take it out just flip the hinge down. If it a large drawer use two.

You will not need to get anything expensive for this. I use to get them for about 60 cents a pair.

Ken

[Ken Frantz]

Ken again!!!!!!

I just thought of another idea I have use and will pass it on for what it is worth.

I have in the past made a bread drawer using a good set of drawer slides on the drawer and dadoed a grove on the top of the sides and the front just like dadoing a bottom, but a tad bit looser fit and made the back just fit under the top dado of the sides on the back.

The "lid" is made long enough to reach the back of the cabinet when the drawer is closed and in the grooves and a cleat is attached on top of the "lid" to the back so when the drawer is pulled out the "lid" stays in the cabinet.

This drawer should not be the top drawer in the stack since the top drawer will need to come out to attach the cleat to the back of the cabinet when the drawer is installed.

Also a good waxing with pariffen would be helpful on the lid sides.

CLEAR AS MUD??????

KEN