Tablesaw blade guard use

[JayStPeter]

If anyone wants a spankin' new, still wrapped in plastic guard for a Unisaw let me know.

I do use a Uniguard splitter and older Excalibur overhead guard. But, the overhead guard is really only a failed attempt at better DC.

Jay St. Peter

[Stan Thigpen]

I never installed the guard on my old Craftsman contractor's saw when I purchased it about 15 years ago. I try to be very aware of the hazards. I use feather boards, push sticks, etc. and stand out of the line of the blade as much as possible. I don't have any plans for an after-market guard, but would sure like to incorporate a splitter into the machine.

[Jim Dannels]

Well there is a Bt3100 in my shop, guard is in place, kickback pawls removed. It does have the riving knife in place.
I find the guard a mixed blessing and will either cut down the riving knife eliminating it or install a Shark Guard.
The portable Delta has not had a guard for 15 yrs, t was a piece of nonfunctional crap from the git-go.
My primary safety process is to never stand directly behind the blade and never allow my hands to come in lie either. I painted a red line on the top inline with the blade and never go near it.

[Greg Bogardo]

New to Sawmill Creek. Hello to you all.

I use the Deluxe Delta Uniguard on my Unisaw as well as a Gripper. I used the factory guard and splitter prior to that and no guard and splitter on my old Craftsman saw. When it comes to an aftermarket guard and splitter I have no regrets or complaints about the Uniguard and use it pretty much all the time unless a cut can not be made with it in place.

Greg

[Tyler Howell]

I use the Excalibur guard and Bies Splitter on the PM 66. Just make good sense to me.
PS Welcome Greg.
Love to see some of your work!

[Jay Knepper]

My present cabinet saw (a Sawstop) has an excellent guard and an excellent riving knife that can be changed in a few seconds. They are used constantly.

My prior saw had a gawdawful guard. It never saw the light of day once I had tried it for a couple of projects. I did use an MJ splitter once they became available.

From my own experience and from reading many threads like this one, it appears that people will use good products. They will resist using bad products, even to the extent of compromising safety. ('Though omitting my prior saw's guard/splitter was not really much of a safety compromise.)

[Steve Rowe]

This is somewhat moot in my shop now since I have a slider and do use the guard. When I had my Unisaw, the standard guard was so lame that I purchased the Uniguard. I didn't really care much for the Uniguard splitter primarily due to those anti-kickback pawls so, I made my own splitter out of 1/8" thick aluminum flatbar - I liked this much better. While the Uniguard was a significant improvement, it does have some limitations and I believe there are probably better overhead guards available.

[Kent Cartwright]

Very interesting responses, especially in light of the recent accidents. My tablesaw is always equipped with a splitter and saw blade guard, unless doing dadoes or some other cut that does not allow the use of a splitter. My current setup is the factory standard splitter, with the plastic blade cover and pawls removed. Instead, I supplement the splitter with an Excalibur overhead guard. Now personally, I love the splitter, but find the overhead guard annoying. The head of the guard gets in the way of the push sticks, whenever my cut is small enough to require push sticks. Go figure. I am seriously considering doing away with the Excalibur and also possibly going to the MJ splitter.

The best splitter / blade cover I have used came on my first Craftsman saw. It was the standard one-piece unit, but it attached to a bracket using a thumb screw. It literally took less than 30 seconds to remove or replace the splitter / blade guard unit. Because it was so easy, I always used it.

My next upgrade will definately be to a Sawstop. Woodworking is only my hobby, and if I lost the use of my fingers for any significant period of time, my REAL job would be in jeopardy. I'm not willing to take that risk, especially when there are technology-related advances that can significantly reduce my risk. I feel training is your best bet for safety, but the right equipment can also really help. I see it as a belt-and-suspenders approach.

Kent

[Mark Singer]

I never use a guard...I want to see the blade...splitter for long rips and Board Buddies on most cuts. I have a PM 66...I never used it on my worm drive 77's either..

[Stan Thigpen]

What is the MJ splitter to which a couple of folks have referred?

[Kevin Groenke]

Since I'm supposed to be setting an example, I do as I tell our students to do . If the bladeguard doesn't interfere with a cut, it should be over the blade - and is ~95% of the time. After 10 years of this, I've actually grown uncomfortable when using a saw without a guard. That after a previous lifetime (and 2 fingers) of using saws without bladeguards.

We've made this easy by providing Beismeyer overhead guards (with the threaded rod/crank removed so a simple push/pull gets the guard in/out of position). It takes 5 seconds to move this guard in or out of position.

The addition of SawStop saws last year has added another layer of protection, but has changed no s.o.p. and the guards are still used universally. The stock bladeguard on the SawStop is quite unique and possibly less disfunctional than other stock guards. We opted to stay with the Beismeyers primarily because their use was pretty effectively institutionalized.

After a year with riving knifes I contend that they are superior to any other splitter/anti kickback device and do more to prevent mishap than any bladeguard. Kickbacks (previously an embarassingly frequent occurance) have been effectively eliminated with the incorporation of this simple unobtrusive device into the SawStops (and of course long available european saws, some old domestic saw, etc..). Riving Knives should be on every saw, should have been 20 years ago. I for one wouldn't buy a saw without a riving knife and wouldn't recommend one to anybody else.

Enough for now.

keeps your finger on.

kg

[Craig Colvin]

I have probably made three cuts without the guard in place in the last 5 years. Every one of them left me scared silly until it was over.

Ditto for me.

[Frank Hagan]

No guard for me, although I have tried to mock up a home-made guard using PSI's over-blade dust collector assembly. It wiggles too much, but the support arms might be better in aluminum or steel. I'm thinking I would be better off with the guard they have, which I could easily mount to the cieling.

I do take care. I am never, ever in line with the cut. I never cut sheet goods larger than 4 x 4 on my table saw. My position at the saw is to the left of the blade, left foot forward, with my weight on my right foot, positioned behind me. If I trip or lose my balance, I won't fall forward. Before I turn on the saw, I think through the cut, and for larger pieces that will extend off the saw table, I do a run-through with the blade down to make sure the outfeed rollers, etc. are positioned correctly. Because I have a small shop, I do the run through to make sure there isn't something behind the saw that will interfere ... stock that I think is far enough away, etc.

Looking at the Sawstop saw, I really like that blade guard. Clear plastic, close to the blade, and not too wide. My secret desire is to get a Sawstop; I like the splitter (riving knife) design too.

But, I am nervous about what I do now. Right now, dust collection and not breathing it are my first priorities.